I recieved my kit from keisler recently and I am in the process of converting from auto to manual. For those of you who have indergone this conversion do you have to use the transmission tunnel patch keisler provides to obtain correct angle etc? it involves cutting quite some amount out of the tunnel why couldnt a person lay out the template form the metal to the tunnel trace the shifter location and just cut out a small amount of excess around that? Is there not enough tunnel clearance? If so then how does the patch help it conforms right back to the tunnel? Thanks in advance guys and gals The less i can cut from my tunnel the better id really feel about this.

i have done this twice and let me start out by saying that for the tunnel mods involved why have a heartache about them when you are changing so much other stuff? the keisler upgrade is worth all the mods necessary. is your car a column or floor shift auto? there is a difference in column and floor shift tunnels. by what you are saying it sounds like it is a column. more material has to be removed than from a floor shift, a floor shift has more hump or room. if you don't remove enough material the tranny will contact the tunnel and make a bad whine through the floor and bind the input shaft. follow their instructions and you will be very happy about the upgrade.

I did the auto to manual conversion on a '70 E built in California. I cut out a good bit of the trans tunnel following the new "4 speed hump" outline. I welded in the hump then cut out some more for the "patch" recommended for early E's, especially California cars.

On installation of the trans, the shifter lined up perfectly. To set driveshaft angle correctly I needed to shim up the transmission... which pushed the trans up into the patch area. Driveshaft angle was dialed in without hitting... but the "patch" was needed.

Bottom line, I followed the instructions and am glad I did. The trans fitted first time with no "takeout". The patch was needed. After sealing all weld seams, painting and installing carpet both integrity and appearance are good.

Post deleted by moparts

Thanks for all the information.
Gene as for needed assistance I under stand the directions fine i just wondered if that much clearance was indeed needed? Looking at 4 speed installs i can kind of see your point i was just trying to figure out how the patch which bends back to conform to the tunnel was going to supply any extra room. Since its obvious that everyone i have talked to feels that it does make that extra gap up I feel more reassured I was just about to cut the tunnel and thought is this much truly needed? Also Gene I have personally talked to you on the phone and you are a great person when something needed worked with or i needed information you are always on top of things!! Thanks for that

Don't hesitate to call Keisler, but this should have pics of what you're looking for:
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=0#Post6045120

Tony,



After installing quite a few Keisler transmissions for myself and customers,...I'll give you my on the 70 Charger install, as I have performed that as well,.....purchase a repro 4 spd hump, forego the sheetmetal peice supplied in your kit, cut the floor open for the "factory" repro 4 spd hump, don't install it yet....mock up the install by installing the bell, and transmission, along with the supplied tranny crossmember,....check your installed transmission angle, the tranny tailshaft should be pointing downward,.....useing an inclination meter, measure the rear pinion angle,...the pinion will point upward(note if your performing this with the rear suspension hanging, the pinion angle changes,...measure with the car on the ground, sitting on it's wheels, or sitting on a 4 post drive-on ramp),...you want to have the transmission and pinion on equal paralell angles of one another,...example 5 degrees - on the tranny, and 5 degrees + on the pinion,....measure the rear pinion, factory is usually 3-5 degrees +,....unless you've modified your rear end perches/springs/etc,....you need to determine that the engine/transmission driveline angle is exactly what you want, you may need to shim the tranny mount to acheive the angle needed, and in most cases, with the Keisler, it's upward, which means more tunnel mods to get the tranny into the hump,....don't be afraid of cutting the floor, your going to put a carpet and/or console over it,...so why fuss?,....driveline correctness and operation are more paramount,...last thing you need is vibrations from a poorly set-up driveline,.....the Keisler aluminum case Tremec runs hot in OD mode on extended runs, so the more room you have around the tranny for airflow the better,...use some dynamat on the floor for heat barrior after you've determined the floor mods,...with the tranny mocked up, and the 4 spd hole cut out in the floor open, it gives you a better idea of any interference you need to address,....then fit the "factory" 4 spd hump, there's plenty of clearance around the hump, but you'll need to weld up the hole were the original shifter would mount, as the Keisler shift tower is located approx 3" to the center of the factory hole,...the supplied Keisler shifter offset will center the shifter in the factory console, or under the shifter boot, should you desire no console,...the factory 4spd shifter has a 3" offset as well, just in the other direction to center the shifter, so don't worry about the location, it will be correct with the Keisler,....but do follow the instructions supplied from Keisler, if you don't understand something call Keisler,....if you wish to PM me here at Moparts, I can answer most if not all your questions regarding your install,....trust me after you've installed your Keisler TKO, correctly, it'll be the only transmission you'll prefere to have in a car

Here's a driveline pic to help you out, regarding driveline correctness,...you don't need the driveshaft to determine your tranny and pinion angles,

Mike

Tony,...here's a pic of my interior, I'm running the Keisler TKO 600/650 5 spd .64 OD,...factory console in the stock location, factory shifter boots, with a Keisler TKO repro console 70 pistolgrip shifter,...I'm also running the Keisler hydraulic throw out bearing set up,...which set up are you running


I have about 6 years and 40K+ miles on this unit,...hard miles, street/highway/PowerTours/road courses/tracks...only problem in that time was a blown hyd. throw out bearing, nothing major,....but I am running a somewhat non-recommended HD clutch set up behind my Keisler

Mike

Thanks again everyone Nice custom RR . Dayclona thanks for the incite as well I am also going to be running the TKO600/650 with a .64 OD and the hydraulic clutch setup from keisler. I know you said that there was an issue with your bearing but i also believe they have changed setups since then am i correct? As for the install I like the info about the factory 4 speed hump but since this car is not perfect (driver) and down the road i am going to take the car to a body shop and install new floors I will most likely do what you explained at that point and use what I have for the moment. You also mentioned a heat issue in OD what are you calling extended periods of time I have ordered some 80 mil FATMAT as DynaMat seemed quite pricey and i figured this would do the job! Thanks again and both of your help is much appreciated.

I know you said that there was an issue with your bearing but i also believe they have changed setups since

You also mentioned a heat issue in OD what are you calling extended periods of time

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Tony, ...the problem I had with the TObearing was it basically gernaded,....I had 5 yrs of hard miles on it too, about close to 40K street and tracks,.....the bearing itself was OK, just the hyd sleeve let go,....but then again it was right after speed shifting thru 4 gears during a heavy launch,....plus running a Sachs BorgBeck style 3 finger 2800 lb clutch and Kelvar disk isn't recommended by Keisler,...as they usually run the diaphram type cover/clutch set-ups.....but it was an easy fix in just under 2-3 hrs when the parts showed up,....at that time, I also upgraded to the Keisler modified Wilwood master,...as I had been running the FEP master, the Wilwood was a much needed upgrade



As far as the heat generated in the passenger compartment, it's very noticeable, at times it feels like you could fry an egg inside the console ,....so spend the money on some good dynamat, or something good that will barrier the heat,...avoid any adhesives or adhesive mats, as they will melt/stink when heated

Mike

I finished putting mine in a few weeks ago, was a major PITA to cut and get right, take your time, and making the keisler supplied sheetmetal is fine, but it takes patience to bend the metal to fit the tunnel. the cut-out template they give you is fine, but you'll need to install and check clearance. I had to "clearance" my floor a bit to ensure the trans didn't hit the floor.

Here's the after, before I used the seam sealer

Nice job Jarrod ,....I usually recommend installing the factory 4 spd hump for several reasons when converting an automatic car rather than use the Keisler patch,...1, more room the merrier, esp when you need to remove the tranny for a clutch job,...2, air circulation,...you'll find out how hot! that tranny gets on long cruises in OD,..3, your installing a manual tranny, why not make the floor look factory,...4 if you order a manual carpet set, what are you going to do with all that extra mat'l? thats allowed for the factory hump?,....an automatic carpet will fit, but the increased hump using the Keisler patch will leave you short when it comes to the door jambs, depending on the manufactures carpet,...points to consider

I know the post is kinda old but I have to ask.
Can there be a cooler installed on a TKO600?
You would need a pump of some sort through to a cooling rad, or I guess I could run ducted scoop like on brake system cooling.
Has anyone tried?