the buzzer works good but it wont turn off when i start the car. any ideas??

Pull it out of the fuse block to kill it for good.

Are the pin switches working OK? Dome light goes off?

dome light works as it should. id pull it but it runs the horn too.

You can remove the key buzzer andd replace it with one without the key buzzer pins. Mine now only works the horns. I put away the original relay in case i ever need it.

original relays are hard to find. But BDW part R218 available from Advance Auto is a close fit. Cheap and easy way to figure out if you have a problem in the wiring or the relay would be to drop a new one in. The BDW part "fits" as is, at least enough to tell if everything else is working. To make it actually fit a little work with a dremel to remove the bracket attached to it and remove the steps on the spade connectors and no one would know the difference unless they pulled it out and looked at it.

mmm... what year ?

we have to tell abuoyt differences and how it works.

1-Key In buzzer works with door, So no matter if you turned on, as far driver door is open, will keep buzzing.

2-NO, IS NOT LINKED TO DOME LIGHT... if it was, then when any door is oppened will buzz, or if you turn on the dome light by dimmer switch

3-Door Jam switch ( driver side ) has several wire arriving. Depending on year it could get three wires with a 3 pins plug ( 70/71 ) OR SAME 3 WIRES ARRIVING but this time, two prongs ( 72 and lates ) being two yellow spliced into one prong. I think actually it could be 2 wires on lates and the splice relocated, can't recall exactly right now.

Wires are 2 ( or one propably in some cases ) yellows and one black. THE BLACK ONE is the one what drives the lights on buzzer, the key in buzzer and any driver related deal. Yellow drives the dome light. Courtesy lights, map lights are also related on this yellow wire.

Was made separatelly simply to isolate as stated the dome light function at cluster, from this warnings signals.


So If was you, check for thw black wire around drive side door jam switch being accidentally grounded. Maybe loosen and floating around, maybe damaged door jam switch.

wire allong the run could it be peeled off too being grounded.

it is diagramed like this ( colors are the actual ones ).

It could be some small diff depending on year and body. I made it based on B bodies, but on ,mostly E bodies are with a similar setup.

Just ilustrated black line to this functions from driver side

ok. its a 71 cuda with 70 rally under dash harness.heres the thing. the car is alittle bit like a salad. it has alittle of everything from all years. but the harness to switch has a 3 wire prong and a nos 2 post switch. so i had to do something.... so heres what i did. i cut the 3 wire plug and wired y&b to the post switch. the other b i grounds to frame. you think thats my problem? maybe connect to b prong?
i went to see whats up and fixed it. that was the easyest fix i had in a long time. thanx

yes DEEEEFINITELLY thats the problem

splice both yellows together on one prong, and the black by itself to the other prong... and DONE


For correctness you still could find 70/71 NOS door jam switchs with 3 pins around before cut, not cheap though, but lates 2 prongs works exactly the same as far you splice them correctly


It is just me but it looks you are talking me about 2 blacks around ?

there is around another black wire but with a "teethed" kind eyelet terminal what goes to dash frame to chassis ground to several stuff, but thats nothing to do with door jam switch

then also around the E parking brake wire is black with bullet kind terminal, but once again, nothing to do with door jam switch

well you can get on 2 prongs kind at least, just one of the tabs at switch loosen from prong retainer ring or rusted, so won't close circuit for a while the other one does

can't recall on 3 pins kind too.

BTDT