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Post deleted by Defbob
[Re: Big_Fish]
#737761
06/30/10 11:43 PM
06/30/10 11:43 PM
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Anonymous
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Re: Hemi block question?
#737762
07/01/10 12:38 AM
07/01/10 12:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,505
DFW
mr_340
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,505
DFW
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I'm pretty sure those blocks got replaced by the World blocks in the Mopar parts system. I tried to order a stress relieved block about the time they canceled the contracts with Cummins. I wanted a stock looking block but ended up with the World block. It's pretty stout looking though.
Floyd Lippencott IV
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Re: Hemi block question?
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#737764
07/01/10 09:52 AM
07/01/10 09:52 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
A bit off topic....But since I have you here Fred....I just bought a stock 69 Street Hemi, plan is a mostly stock rebuild with some enhancements. I'm seriously considering a stroker crank just for the extra torque and drivability. It's currently got an NOS Kellog stock stroke crank in it, do those things have any value these days with all of the new stroker cranks around so cheap?
Not Fred,but the Kellog crank is only worth what some will pay for it.It is heaviely counterweighted and was designed for the heavy Hemi rotating assemblies and is very expensive to balance to todays light rods and pistons.We very seldom use it in any Hemi builds.Not many guys want "stock" builds even for restoration projects since the increased size performs better and everything is on the inside.Most all our restoration builds exceed 494+" or more,even in some "high end resto"engines. 
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Post deleted by Defbob
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#737765
07/01/10 10:20 AM
07/01/10 10:20 AM
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Anonymous
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Re: Hemi block question?
[Re: topside]
#737767
07/01/10 11:28 AM
07/01/10 11:28 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
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Quote:
Just a thought Scott, but would it make sense to offset-grind that stock-stroke crank & use a shelf rod with a smaller big-end ID? Could enough "arm" be gained at a better total price? Or would it be more cost-effective to use a stroker 440 crank?
Sorry for the diversion off-topic if that bugs anyone.
That crank would be nitrite treated and after .005 to .015 becomes very soft and must be re-treated for any durable wear surface.
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