I have began my search for a metal shell that would be easier and cheeper to just swap panels such as floors, frame rails, and firewall, even if some repair will be needed on the metal afer the swap that's ok as long as it's not as bad as my car is at the moment. As you can see, i'm trying to avoid high cost of all reproduction panels even if a bit more work is involved. Being young means money is VERY limited and this is why, and resources and help are much more plentifull than money. So i need to know what years i can look for that the metal will be identical to mine.

Also things like fenders and tail light panel (some of the things i thought were changed through the years) are fine, so i just need a metal SHELL. Thanks moparts

For correctness, you are unfortunatley pretty hosed on by any year other than 70. There were numerous changes from 70 to 71, and certainly from 70 to 72 and later. For example, the floor pans on a 70 are welded in differently on 72 and later. You can use the later stuff, but it may not fit right. Firewall should work, cowl will work, but there are differences on how the screens and ballast resistor mount. A-pillar, and stuctural stuff will work, but there are changes between 70 and other years. Some of the 70 brackets may need to be saved (I am thinking exhaust and emergency cable brackets for example). I used a 72 for a-pillars, front frame rails, cross member and roof skin for my 70. I will also use the 72 cowl ends to repair the 70 cowl. If I had to do it over, I would probably just sold the 72 and bought the reproduction. But back when I started this, I didn't know they would have all of the metal they have now.

Agree with the above. If your really being picky, the 70 floor pans have a very specific rib pattern that is different than all other years. The AMD replacement pans use the 71 ribs, just so ya know. Finding original 70 metal will be a Challenge (no pun intended)!

It's ok. I now atleast know I should "try" to get a 70 shell. But other years will work, just not as good or easy of a fit. Which I can understand. If it's a must I will get some metal from amd, but then I might end up spending more money for a shell and some reproduction metal...but if I lad on the right shell (hopefully at Carlisle) I will take it over buying new/expensive metal...I figure I will have around or maybe over $2,000 in new repro metal (probably more), but if I can pick up a decent shell for $1,500, I'm in....kinda understand a little better?

I see your point, but I'm not looking for a rust "free" shell. Just something easier to patch and repair than my metal and avoid buying new metal...for example, my quarter lips are rusted, other than that, whold quarters are fine. So why buy a whole brand new quarter if I just need the lip wich I can get from a donor. Being that they don't make just the quater patch panels for challengers yet

Ok, what if i somehow found atleast a good firewall, door, some other miscelaneous metal from a donor. Would i still end up ahead after buying floors and frame rails from amd?...of just take the hit and spend about $3,000 at amd? maybe even more?...or is the chance of picking up a decent donor shell for metal around 2,000 still an option? frame rails, floor, trunk, firewall, and cowl will be most costly in the end as the truth goes. But, the question is, could i find the metal i'm looking for, or as close to it as possible for $2,000, before someone else grabbing it?...thanks

I think it's more a case of logistics.

How many nice shells are there in the PA area? None.

Out here where the elements are a little nicer a shell may range from $1500 to $3500+, but that doesn't do you any good. It'll still cost you $1500 to ship the shell to you.

Found a local guy (member on here) with a 72 rear back half. Also believe he has a 72 Full body, including firewall,etc. Both From texas and rust free. I want to go take a look at both. But his asking price is $2,000 for just the one rear half. With just a rear half all i'm going to use if the frame rails, trunk, trunk supports and crossmember, quarters (as lower patches and wheel lip patches), trunk gutters, wheel wells. I am thinking if it is in as good condition as he says (being rust FREE) i'll offer 1,000 and work from there. Hopefully he'll understand my situation and help me out on price. But i have no clue what to offer for the body or if it'd be even worth trying to get? thanks