I had a Hughes 256/260@50 628/640 with 1.6 rockers. Timing chain broke and broke cam. Track only, 496, 12.5, Ross flat tops, h beams, procomp cnc Max wedge port, Indy single, 1050 dominator,2"/3 1/2 super. comp headers, 5600 stall, 4.30 gear, 727,considering roller but don't want to exceed about 450 pounds on springs. 72 barracuda full interior

Why don't you want to exceed 450 lbs on a motor with big, heavy stainless steel valves? I run 250 to 275 on the seat and 630 to 675 lbs open on my Eddy and Indy SR heads with the same size stainless valves You need to keep the roller on the lobe rolling, not skipping or sliding The only way to do that is to have enough pressure to keep the roller wheel in constant contac with the lobe while the valves are opening or closing the entire way BTW, are your intake ports Max Wedge size or regular 440 size? If M.W. try 265 to 274 at .050 on the intakes and slightly more( 4 to 7 degrees, depending on how ggod or bad the exhaust flows compared to the intakes ) duration on the exhaust side. Don't forget to change the oil pump drive gear.

I guess the first question is what kind of cam? Are you wanting a flat tappet, or a roller?
I would get with one of the guys on the board and have them make you up a custom cam. Its really worth the little bit extra money it will cost.
Dewayne Porter aka Fast68plymouth, I have made some good power with one of his cams. I also had Chuck and Pete at Best machine grind me one too.
The last few I have had was a Bullet Racing Cam. Those cams are top notch.
Brian on here username OU812 is very helpful and knowledgeable.
these guys can help select a cam that will work with everything you have making sure you dont leave anything on the table and work like its suppose to.

Thanks for your reply. I have Max wedge ports and since I need a cam I would like to step it up with out getting too expensive and unreliable. For the pressures you suggest what rocker arms are needed. Also should I go with a good timing chain or gear drive?

Sorry to hear this.............what chain were you running so the rest of us can take notice.

I bought the timing chain several years ago when the motor was stock. It was a coyles double roller but was listed as a street application so it was my fault, not the chains. My current application is running spring pressure of about 400 pounds at 640 lift and right now I have cnc ported procomp maxwedge heads and only have the procomp offset 1.6 rockers. They actually look very "beefy" compared to the mopar blue rockers I had before but I know looks can be deceiving. Budget is a concern so did not want to have to replace everything but I do not know the limits of the procomp rockers.

How tall is your tire? Where do you shift now? What rpm do you go through the traps at? What rpm do you launch at?

You're running 400#s open w/ a flat-tappet cam? That's scary...

FWIW, the rest of the combination looks like something that would work a lot more duration (270+ @ .050") than you used before.

Been shifting @ 6700 and trapping @ 7200. Too many rpm for present cam but also need new converter (14% slip). Every thing changing for next project. Going in a 69 dart with fiberglass doors forward,Dana,ladder bars,etc. Barracuda was for street fights and playing with my sons. The dart is for dad...building son another toy of his own. Been running the flat tappet for several years and lobes still show no wear.

I'd recommend somewhere around 268-272@ .050 on intake side and a little more on ex. but different lobe. Lobe center on 108 with a few degrees of advance.
I ran 410lbs. of open pressure on my std core Comp cam in my duster for a couple of years. When I took it apart, both lobes and lifters looked excellent.
I had std. lifters too!!
Brian

I just noticed the "broken cam" comment, sorry for your loss. what spring pressures are you running now on the seat and how much clearance to coil bind? One way to lower the finish line RPM is to shift the motor at the same RPM it crosses the finish line at now instead of shifting out of 1st and 2nd gear at a lower RPM I agree with Brain on the cam specs for a roller cam, use a little more duration if you put a solid flat tappet cam back in it, maybe the Mopar 620 cam

I was running 190 pounds @ 1.83 lift. I bought new heads delivered with Hughes 1107 springs already installed. I made a rookie mistake and installed the heads without checking everything. I checked today and the springs are installed @ 2" which will put seat pressure near 140#. I went with heavyer valves, 1.5 to 1.6 rockers, and l.onger, thicker pushrods with out realizing the spring pressure was low. So much for rushing a job. Coil bind is not a problem but valve float may have been. I will probably go with a flat tappet again due to price but will check every thing this time. Thanks for taking time to answer my post.