Okay, I've searched, and can't find a universal anwser on the cost of this swap. I've got a non # matching 70 Charger RT with a 440 Six Pack, and I'd like to swap the new engine in. My 440 runs like a dog, so I'd rather do the swap and save some headache.

From what I can find, the cost of the swap, is something like this:

Salvage yard 5.7: $1,300-2,000
Aftermarket harness: $1,000?
Custom front sump oil pan: $425
aftermarket headers: $700
Mounts/misc: $1,000

Am I in the ballpark here? I'd like to get it down as close as I can, before i pull the trigger and sell my 440 stuff.

Also, for those who have done the swap, how does the car drive/perform afterwards? Any quarter mile times? I'd like to keep the fuel injection, and keep the engine stock. 340 hp and 390 ft/tq in a 600lb lighter package is an appealing combination.

And I've also read that I'd have to swap to a small block 727, and install some kind of spacer between them so the starter will work.

But any input would be appreciated, Thanks!

i am working on 71 b-body. there is a great post in archeives about 6.1 swap into an ebody. small block tranny will work, just need washers to adapt flex plate to converter. But don't forget about all of the little things that add up$$. fuel system, radiator outlets, guages, and that price seems a little low for wiring to run injectors. I am still working on mine, and there is a bit of tuning. It runs strong, but no times yet.

If you can find some jeep 6.1 manifolds, you can use those and save some coin. Also a Milodon oil pan is $200 which will save $200. I'm not positive, but you may be able to use the stock wiring harness, but I'm not 100% positive on that. If you can that will save some as well. Make sure you get as mush as possible with the engine (gas pedal, wiring, accessories, etc).

For the trans you'll need the MP flex plate (P5153753) other then that the trans will bolt up just fine. I think you'll need to use a mini starter that fits the 727, just like if you were running a small block.

Unless you follow some one else's EXACT swap and can do the EXACT labor and get the EXACT deals, there is no EXACT price.

Unless you are a decent fabricator and a great electronics guy, the parts and labor is the bare buy-in price. All 3rd gen hemis are OBDII. Stock harness requires other parts from the vehicle to communicate, like the cluster. Aftermarket harness and computer is not a plug and play. The harness must be tested and installed properly, and the base software is only a rough starting point. Do you have a laptop or scan tool that talks to the computer? Extra money. Do you have the knowledge to set up and modify timing and fuel maps? When you call the tech line, can you speak and understand the information required to diagnose and fix computer issues? Do you know why a circuit voltage drop test is better than an ohms test?

This may sound harsh, but even if you came on here and asked for the cost of a big block swap into a small block 1973 Duster, there would still be a big range of cost. This is with a swap that has been done a lot and the parts and labor are pretty well established. Even then, there will be unknown things that need to be addressed during the swap. The hemi adds at least a couple layers of complexity to it. There is no bolt-in gas tank with pump and sender, there is no bolt-in exhaust, there is the whole computerized fuel and ignition. The answer would probably scare you!

That's what I want man, the cold, hard truth. I do understand that it's different from case to case, and no two builds are the same. I'm hoping to get other's who've done it to share what it took to do it.

I'm watching a good friend do the install in a street rod, trying to learn what I can, but I'm honestly lost when it comes to the complex EFI stuff, and not afraid to admit it.

Thanks for the replies guys, keep em coming!

I'd do the 440-6. Much cheaper and it will make more hp for 1/2 the cost.

Okay, glad you took it in the spirit intended.

Front to back:
Radiator/fans + shroud/hoses - probably electric and computer controlled.
Transmission cooler and brackets - parts and fab work to fit
drive belt set-up - Stock has A/C and a power steering pump. It may have a fan that probably won't fit. - Mods to remove or make this stuff work with a single belt.
engine mounts and trans mount - There may be bolt-in solutions.
Exhaust system - all must be researched and probably some custom work done.
Cutting current crossmember and/or car for clearance - fab work.
Oil pan and filter to work in the chassis - There may be bolt-in solutions.
Driveshaft - custom
Shifter - aftermarket
Fuel system - custom or fabbed


Now the computer stuff:
PCM
harness
additional wiring to connect to car - labor and some parts (ignition switch, gauges, MIL light, fuel pump wiring)
Junkyard motor may be good, but plan on a few sensors for a change of combo, damage or from sitting.
Plan on at least 40-80 hours minimum to get the thing so you are willing to run a half tank of gas through it without a cellphone and a bud with a truck and trailer. That's WORKING on it, either a smart pro ($) or the time you spend after many more hours learning this stuff.

Car stuff:
If any of the following are
1. not in very good condition
2. will not handle the new abouse
3. will be updated along with the engine/trans
they need to be addressed too.
Brakes
Suspension
Steering
Drive axle
remaining wiring
Body/Paint
Wheels/Tires
Interior
Glass
Trim
HVAC

Now, put a price on each thing, then add 50% for the little stuff. The hardware, the fluids, the beer for friends, the long distance calls, the shipping and handling, the difference between the price of the wrong part and the right one, all the stuff that drains that pocket.

I helped a friend with a "simple" hemi jeep swap. After it was "in", it was another 3 months until they came by the house for the show-off run. I have not done one myself, but will help that same friend with his Challenger swap. That one was bought half apart and half installed. We figure at least 60-80 hours figuring out the wiring, and we are not slouches. Add-on remote door and trunk latch kit, add-on computer, add-on fans, none of it connected properly, only some of it even partly routed, and only half the wiring diagrams for the kits.

It's better to research it deeply before you spend and try to make stuff work together.

i put one in a 65 coronet,went with xfi carb kit,milodon pan and p/u tube,made my own block mts to use org motor mts,used the 2004 truck ex manifolds,had to use manual steering box,i think it was around 3000.00 just for conversion not including 5.7 cost it has plenty of torque and hp for cruising.

I considered the swap into my 70 challenger and I determined I'd be better off finding a rolled over new challenger and making my top half fit it As much as I'd love a new hemi in my car, it just cost too much when you factor in everyhing needed. I can get a 5.7 for under 1k... its the rest of the parts that will get you.

I'd build a 512 stroker

The 1969 Dodge
Charger 500 & Daytona
Specifications
Wheelbase, inches: 117
Weight, lbs: 3,740
Number built: 895
Base price: $5,261


3700 lbs is the number I keep finding in old road tests for the original curb weights. I've deleted the old AC compressor, switched to aluminum Weld wheels, and shed weight where I could without cutting/modifying anything, and the car weighed just over 3650 on a local scale. I still plan to switch to a lightweight fiberglass hood, and other easily reversible modifications. I'm no expert at this stuff, that's just what it weighs with 5 gal of gas and no driver. And the current 440 six pack setup.

Yes, the car is a real U code 70 RT in a high impact color, and I do appreciate the rarity and value in it. But if I can improve it without doing serious modifications, and doing nothing that can't be unbolted and changed later, I don't see the harm in upgrading. I'm a stickler for not cutting up classic Mopars, but I won't do anything that can't be undone.

And I also understand that the 440 can be built to easily outperform the 5.7, (in a straight line acceleration contest, atleast) however, there's no way even the best built 440 can touch the drivablity, reliability, efficiency, and performance of the new stuff. To get a 440 to the same 350 net hp number, I'd have a lumpy idle, an engine that would foul plugs quite frequently, and something that would get 9 mpg. And require constant tuning/tinkering.

By contrast, I don't see why the new engine wouldn't get 18(ish) mpg with proper gearing, be more responsive, and as a side benefit, wouldn't need any maintainece outside the normal 100k mile tuneup new cars require.

Maybe I've been spoiled by driving newer performance cars the last few years while this car has been under resto, but honestly my 15 year old 3 series BMW, or my Toyota AE86 outperforms this car in every aspect. I really don't enjoy driving it very much as is. Maybe it's because the 440 in it now is so out of tune, but the car could get it's tail handed to it by a modern 6 cylinder compact truck as it sits. It's quite disheartening.

My 440 ran 12.6's in a GTX with 3.23 gears and has the same plugs in it I installed 10 years ago.

Your doing something wrong.

---

That I definately agree to. The combo was selected by the previous owner, when I tore it down I put a comp cams 268 XE cam and had the carbs gone thru, but the rest of the engine has stock 452 heads, low compression 8.X to 1 pistons, and other unremarkable parts. I upgraded the cam and stall to some better matched components, but the car never has ran worth anything.

I must be missing something here...

You must mean getting you're current 440 to 350 net hp?? The 68-70 440's were 375 hp. The 440 six pack's were 390hp and I think 490 foot pounds of torque. Yes the gas mileage isn't gonna be very good,but that's the joy of having a big block.
A lumpy idle? You don't have to overcam a 440 to make power. Cam technology has come a long waysin the last few years

I don't see a 5.7 HEMI outperforming a nice healthy 440 without a bunch of mods. 440's are reliable horsepower

I'd build a 451 or optimize your current build to be a torque monster and run a set of 3.23 or so gears.