1989 Maserati TC (Same mechanics as LeBaron/Daytona) 2.2 Turbo II

Getting a code 42, Auto Shutdown Relay. I belive this kills both spark and fuel (via fuel pump).

I can rule out the distributor pick-up (hall-effect) coil and the ignition coil. (Checked by sub) 12V at coil +, but no spark from the coil.

So now I need to know where to find the ASD relay... The internet says it's a large black plastic relay located on the left inner fender. I find two of these. I jumpered a connection across the two largest wires of one connector and turned on the A/C Clutch.

Doing the same with the other had no effect, but I was also told this might be for the fan relay.

The internet mentions fuseable links, but all I locate are about 5 connections that appear to simply be splices in the harness... They all appear normal, not looking like a burned fuseable link.

Can anyone tell me how to (for sure) locate the ASD relay? (Wire color, etc.) Where might I find the fuseable links in the harness?

No service manual before me at the moment.

Does the car run? ASD rea;y supplies voltage to the fuel pump and ignition, if the car is running have some one turn the key to run it should click 3 seconds latter it should click again.

Car does not run. No spark, and no sound from fuel pump.

I just need to locate both the ASD and the fuseable links.

The fusable links are all tied together from one wire from the battery. I'm not sure which relay is ASD, but there are three (I believe - I could walk out and look at my son's 89 TII LeBaron which he has the hood up on since his starter is not working - had to push start it twice to get home from the Mopar Alley show yesterday) relays by/near the left strut tower. One of these is the starter relay (I believe this is the one closest to the master cylinder).

Without being there to see that car its hard to be sure I have found that the relays are not always in the same order (people have them off ect) I would recomend simply jumping them with a wire with two male spade connectors on it the high side wires will be on the terminals that are 90 differnt..

- on one side and | on the other the two that are the same dorection | and | are the conrol side of the relay. As for t he fusible links they will be by the left strut tower quite close to the positive battery terminal. you should see several wires leading off from a lerger single wire each one of those single wires is a fuse link pull on each one with your finger they should feel solid if the strech like a rubber band they are bad cut it out and solder in a new on (NAPA will have fuse wire) hope that makes sense

I'd head over to turbododge.com and see what you can find.

Just a quick note.....If you really do have batt voltage to the coil + (dark green black tracer) then the ASD is functioning.

This should only be hot when the key is initially turned on for a couple of seconds (pump prime) or while cranking IF it is seeing cranking pulse from the distributor.

It is not uncommon for them to set a ASD fault with an extended crank no start condition present....Yet another reason that simply reading codes does not fix everything.

This circuit Z1 feeds the pump, coil, injectors, O2 sensor heater and the SMEC for a feedback monitor.

Again if it really does have batt voltage at those points then you are looking in the wrong place.


Rick

Thanks for the replies... I've already learned more since the last post, including why I shouldn't see a constant 12V at coil.

I am posting over at Turbo-Mopar.com, and was thinking of TurboDodge, but the tech is better at Turbo-Mopar??? Dunno, I'm newly returned to the turbo game...

Here is my latest post:

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Today I had a chance to sit down with the Factory Service Manual for my Maserati TC. By using the wire color codes, I was able to ID the Auto Shut Down relay.

My boss (electrical engineer) and I diagnosed a potential no-start as a bad ground on the cylinder head that would take out the fuel injectors and ignition coil. However...

After further study, it appeared that this wiring set-up would never give me 12v at the ignition coil with just the key in "run", but without the engine running. I would only see (near) battery voltage during cranking and in "run", with a running engine (since the ASD relay signal/input needs to see the on/off/on/off signal from the distributor pick-up). Correct?

Since I had now ID'd the ASD relay, I traced one of the "load/power" sides of the relay to a large splice directly into the alternator/charging system, but through a fusable-link. I decided to work back into the harness to see this splice. Sure enough, I found someone had been there before me.


(Red shows the fatigued fuseable link, green showing the other intact links)

The fusable link didn't appear to burn, but rather fatigued at the parts-store crimp connector (future repair will be soldered and heat-shrinked). Just for "Let me hear it run sake", I half-assed a twist splice. With the key on, I could now feel the relay make a satisfying "click" as soon as I moved the key to run. As I twisted the key towards start, I prepared for the sweet sound of 2.2 liter love, and was rewarded with: More cranking without starting!

Now I get a nice spark from the coil during cranking, but still no fire. Thinking that perhaps the ASD relay contacts had carboned-up, I swapped it with the A/C clutch relay, with no result. Then I swapped in the S-60 computer to rule out the computer. Eventually, I even back-fed the fuel pump again with a jumper to coil "+". Still no change.

I now have no codes (other than the "normal" code 12, battery disconnected). As wonderful as that sounds, I'd rather have the car start. The one thing that I don't hear is the fuel pump, but I'm not sure I even should hear it after this many key-on cycles, because I'm sure the pressure in the lines is high. (Recall that I can hear it when I "force" it to run with a backfeed)

Anyone have an idea where to look next? Beyond the fusable link, I don't see any wiring harness hacks. It will kill me to get this close, and still have to have the car towed!:(

I had an 89 daytona do this before and I started taking a test light to wires and none were totally broke, but just happened to poke it and it went right through and into my hand. The insulation was intact but the wire inside broke.

I just quickly looked over your post and not trying to be smart but did you check the fuel pressure and for power at the pump ?? The pump should get power for a few seconds at key on like the coil does. Ron

Also chrysler changed the ecu setup and asd setup every couple years. Older years 87 and prior had the asd integrated into the engine's power module. These things can be a little tricky because of year to year changes.

Are TC computers different from standard? I'm more into the '86-87 cars but I thought there were differences other than the calibration. I'm likely wrong but it might be a good idea to start with a known, good working ECU and save the s-60 for when its all running.

I had one at the shop years ago that had a broken ground on the rear of the motor.Drove me nuts for about 3 hours till I found it.Rocky

I don't know a thing about the S-60 computers, but I do know there is something odd about the TII factory units. My scan tool cannot talk to our TII cars, but works fine on other OBDI Mopars.

The S-60 was just to see if a computer solved the no-start... It was the only extra on hand. No plans to run it on that computer.

The Maserati TC SMEC is a little "milder" than a regular TII SMEC, because it's behind an auto trans rather than a stick. (Brings the boost on later in the RPMs)

I did hunt down the ground for the injectors, it's located on the intake manifold and in good condtion. Engine to dash ground looks fine too.