Hello everyone,

I am looking into getting a Moog suspension rebuild kit since that seems to be the popular choice and i want to do this right.
here is a link to the kit:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/man19bbodsup2.html

i was wondering if someone that has experiance rebuilding frontends could tell me of any other parts or tools i will need to finish this little project?

i had to take most of the front end out of my 66' coronet to fit in the headers and soon discovered my bushings were moosh, so its time to do the suspension, 44 year old rubber cant last forever i guess

thanks for any help in advance!

-billy

Idler arm and pitman arm.You'll need a socket for the upper ball joints,a puller for the pitman arm,pickle fork to seperate ball joints/tie rods,and you may want tools to remove/install control arm bushings(I use a air chisel to remove the old bushings and a hydraulic press to install the new ones).

Rick Ehrenberg suggests only changing the upper ball joints if they REALLY need to be replaced. If yours are original, I guess that is obvious. I leave the upper control arms ON the car to remove the ball joints. The solid platform of the car allows you to use all your body as leverage to unscrew the uppers. You may need it.
The Moog "problem solvers" upper bushings are a cheap upgrade and allow you to get the alignment specs to numbers much better than stock. The instructions on the Moog box are actually backwards , as these bushings were designed to correct for bent and twisted framework. The front upper bushing is to be installed with the offset toward the engine. The rear upper bushing has the offset AWAY from the engine. This tilts the top ball joint rearward, allowing more positive caster.
Using all rubber bushings restore your car to stock comfort. Some people like to use the urethane bushings in all points EXCEPT the lower control arm. I have done it both ways. Rubber is probably fine for 95% of enthusiasts.
When you put the front end back together, you will have to do a few bonehead settings to get it to the alignment shop. I adjust the alignment cams to put the front bushing all the way out and the rear bushing all the way in. I measure the tie rods before pulling them apart from the sleeves and center link, then adjust them to that number during reassembly. A short drive around the neighborhood at low speeds should give you a feel if you are within range to drive it to a nearby shop.