Re: Cylinder ridge?
[Re: SLOW67]
#715488
06/03/10 11:56 PM
06/03/10 11:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 931
dulcich
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 931
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Quote:
Thanks! I'll measure it tomorrow and see what I have. The bores look really clean and I wouldn't have torn it down but I plan on doing junkyard magnum heads and a better cam so I figured why not. o btw, are you still doing any magazine stuff?
I am the editor of Engine Masters, and write tech columns for Mopar Muscle and Corvette Fever, along with the Engine Masters column in Popular Hot Rodding, and quite a few other articles, mostly in PHR, and sometimes in other mags when I have the time. -dulcich
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Re: Cylinder ridge?
[Re: MoparforLife]
#715490
06/04/10 09:19 AM
06/04/10 09:19 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 931
dulcich
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 931
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Quote:
Although I usually agree with you dulcich and have used several of your articles as references but I disagree here. .001 or there about you can get by with a hone but much more than that and you are asking for trouble. Seen it too many times over the years and I am as low buck as anybody. In act any ridge that you can catch a finger nail on should be removed before piston removal if you plan to reuse the pistons to prevent ring land damage from rings catching on the ridge on removal. seen this happen many times. Depends on if - Do you feel lucky today?
I'd much rather have a new bored out block too, but those numbers are for the guy that just cant afford any other option. Once knew a kid who re-ringed a Ford 390 with .013 taper in bores, and used chrome rings! Needless to say that one was a failure. I did a 215 olds for my 46 Willys Jeep in high school with .006 (best) to .008 (worst) knurled stock pistons, cast iron rings. Ran about 15 years on that build till the block froze one winter and cracked. -dulcich
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Re: Cylinder ridge?
[Re: dulcich]
#715491
06/04/10 09:28 AM
06/04/10 09:28 AM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 916 MB,CAN
PC-CHARGER
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 916
MB,CAN
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I would agree with both Don and Steve because I think they are talking about two different things. Don is talking about removing any ridge while Steve is talking about cylinder taper. The amount of ridge is a good indication of taper because that is usually the point of maximum wear on the cylinder. Steve's numbers are great guideline but any re-ring job should have the ridge removed. My
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Re: Cylinder ridge?
[Re: Crizila]
#715493
06/04/10 12:02 PM
06/04/10 12:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162 USA
360view
Moparts resident spammer
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Moparts resident spammer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162
USA
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So, if I pulled the heads and found less than 0.004 inches of ridge (0.008 total wear) it would be fairly safe to run an experiment where cylinders 1, 4, 6, 7 were re-ringed with the Total Seal Gapless and cylinders 2, 3, 5, 8 were re-ringed with OEM factory Chrysler rings?
Then compare the four cylinders for compression, leakdown percent, power balance on 4 cylinders on a rear wheel dyno?
Or are there equivalent measurements to make on the individual piston grooves to see if they can safely take new rings?
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Re: Cylinder ridge?
[Re: MoparforLife]
#715497
06/04/10 05:11 PM
06/04/10 05:11 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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You want to put the box end on the center nub and pull the cutter around toward you as opposed to pushing it into the wall and dont remove all the ridge as it always cuts unevenly and you dont want to go into the wall itself just get most of it (the ridge). Trick is patience and shifting positions freqently so you are always pulling the blade toward you and freqent checking (& a sharp blade)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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