RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
#690180
05/06/10 09:59 AM
05/06/10 09:59 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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I'm thinking my front seal is leaking on my RV2 compressor. If it is I was thinking of swapping in a later model better design compressor. I am not going to get a retro kit from one of the AC companies. While they are good they are too much $$$$. I was going to scavenge parts from late model vans with the Sanden??? compressor. I was told that I would have to change intakes because of the water neck, True? Any tips or advice? Suggestions on makes or models? PS It's a 74 318 Satellite. 
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: IMGTX]
#690181
05/06/10 10:15 AM
05/06/10 10:15 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
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replace the front seal on an RV2 is a piece of cake... BTDT
just care you need is get WET the carbon seal and DON'T TOUCH IT with fingers. Don't touch either the surface at front plate, just get it wet with oil.
get wet everything with the propper gas oil around, you can drive anything you want as far DON'T TOUCH the carbon seal on new replacement seal... I already damaged one simply TOUCHING it with one finger.
Sanden 508 compressor is a very generic use compressor and good one also lighter. Is the one used on retro fit AC systems. You will need to build just the custom bracket. Is a very common conversion down here. No need to replace anything on engine. You can get JUST SOME CLEARENCE problem with air cleaner, but depending on the rear fitting.
But if you think on replace the front seal on the RV2, you can do it, really.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: Challenger 1]
#690183
05/06/10 03:15 PM
05/06/10 03:15 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
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I'm agree on new hoses, thats logical, to fit on the new setup... about the rest can remain the same.
Theorically drier needs to be replaced anyway everytime sytem is opened.
I can't see anything logical on replace the condensor unless is rusted or damaged
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: IMGTX]
#690184
05/06/10 03:23 PM
05/06/10 03:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,857
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,857
Rio Linda, CA
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Most models with the RV2 compressor depend on the EPR valve inside the compressor to control the system, there is no clutch cycling during normal operation. When replacing the RV2 with a Sanden, etc. you will need to add a clutch cycling device.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#690185
05/06/10 03:28 PM
05/06/10 03:28 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
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 attaching a thermostat switch on lines close to firewall. That's just to save from gas freezing on lines. I haven't done, but I think won't need either. Tropical wheather doesn't get the chance to freeze the lines LOL
Last edited by NachoRT74; 05/06/10 03:30 PM.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#690186
05/06/10 05:55 PM
05/06/10 05:55 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,234
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Ahhhhhh Clutch cycling device...... I must research more on this subject. Thank you. That may be my reason to keep it stock. Besides I can tell everyone its a V-Twin under the hood. Looking like I may take Nacho's advie and swap the seal.
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: NachoRT74]
#690189
05/06/10 07:50 PM
05/06/10 07:50 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 292
New York City
groundpoint6
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 292
New York City
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I haven`t changed one in many years, but back then I changed hundreds of them. The procedure I did was as follows, (keep in mind this was before we knew that freon was destroying our ozone layer ). First if their is freon in the system I would put the a/c on with the key on and engine off. This would energize the a/c clutch, then I would remove the 1/2" bolt from the center of the clutch. Once the bolt was removed, shut the key off and then remove the belts, after that smack the pulleys with a brass hammer to remove the clutch pulley from the tappered shaft. Once the pulleys are removed remove the 3 5/16 screws holding the field coil to the compressor and move it out of the way. Then take the woodruff key off the shaft. Now you have 5 7/16 bolts that hold the front shaft cover to the compressor. If you have pressure in the system slowly back these bolts out evenly using the existing freon pressure to push the cover out. If there is no pressure in the system you can use two screw drivers at 10 o`clock and 2 o`clock to pry the plate off, there are indents on the plate for this. Once the plate is removed you will see the front shaft seal on the front shaft of the compressor. A screwdriver will pry it off. Next take some emery cloth and sand down the front shaft to make a nice hone. Clean the shaft after that with some brake cleaner, and then coat the shaft with some refrig oil. Take the new seal coat it with refrig oil and install it on the shaft. Next inside the front plate is the other side of the seal that you can tap out easily with a small screwdriver and a hammer. After cleaning the plate and coating the plate seal with oil tap the new plate seal into place. Now replace the outer o ring on the plate with the new one provided in the kit. Oil everything real well and reinstall the plate using the 5 7/16 bolts as a puller. Reinstall the woodruff key, then the field coil and make sure that the woodruff key is aligned properly with the slot on the pulleys. Lastly install the 1/2 inch bolt, put the belts back on an then put a jumper wire from the batt to the coil to energize the field and lock the 1/2 " bolt. Disconnect the jumper wire and turn the front plate of the pulleys by hand to seat the new seal. Now you are ready to evacuate ,oil and recharge the system. Optinal if you want take the EPR valve out of the back of the compressor.
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Re: RV2 to ???? AC compressor conversion.
[Re: groundpoint6]
#690192
05/07/10 10:37 AM
05/07/10 10:37 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096
Valencia, España
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Quote:
I haven`t changed one in many years, but back then I changed hundreds of them. The procedure I did was as follows, (keep in mind this was before we knew that freon was destroying our ozone layer ). First if their is freon in the system I would put the a/c on with the key on and engine off. This would energize the a/c clutch, then I would remove the 1/2" bolt from the center of the clutch. Once the bolt was removed, shut the key off and then remove the belts, after that smack the pulleys with a brass hammer to remove the clutch pulley from the tappered shaft. Once the pulleys are removed remove the 3 5/16 screws holding the field coil to the compressor and move it out of the way. Then take the woodruff key off the shaft. Now you have 5 7/16 bolts that hold the front shaft cover to the compressor. If you have pressure in the system slowly back these bolts out evenly using the existing freon pressure to push the cover out. If there is no pressure in the system you can use two screw drivers at 10 o`clock and 2 o`clock to pry the plate off, there are indents on the plate for this. Once the plate is removed you will see the front shaft seal on the front shaft of the compressor. A screwdriver will pry it off. Next take some emery cloth and sand down the front shaft to make a nice hone. Clean the shaft after that with some brake cleaner, and then coat the shaft with some refrig oil. Take the new seal coat it with refrig oil and install it on the shaft. Next inside the front plate is the other side of the seal that you can tap out easily with a small screwdriver and a hammer. After cleaning the plate and coating the plate seal with oil tap the new plate seal into place. Now replace the outer o ring on the plate with the new one provided in the kit. Oil everything real well and reinstall the plate using the 5 7/16 bolts as a puller. Reinstall the woodruff key, then the field coil and make sure that the woodruff key is aligned properly with the slot on the pulleys. Lastly install the 1/2 inch bolt, put the belts back on an then put a jumper wire from the batt to the coil to energize the field and lock the 1/2 " bolt. Disconnect the jumper wire and turn the front plate of the pulleys by hand to seat the new seal. Now you are ready to evacuate ,oil and recharge the system. Optinal if you want take the EPR valve out of the back of the compressor.
just exactly like that!
if no gas, simply jump the pressure switch at dryer
I found this NOS seal package but dunno if is the right one ( O ring looks small to me ):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
They are available allmost at ANY Car AC shop down here if I ask by YORK compressor seal in Venezuela... if I ask by RV2 front seal everybody says WHATS THAT? LOL I think they should be easier to find there, locally
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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