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Calculator shows you will have about 9:1 compression. The 60302 is a small cam, you will be holding yourself back with that. HP will not be far over 400, but torq should be a little over 500 and all at a very low rpm.

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Calculator shows you will have about 9:1 compression. The 60302 is a small cam, you will be holding yourself back with that. HP will not be far over 400, but torq should be a little over 500 and all at a very low rpm.

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9:1? you think? what head gasket did you use in your calculation? I came up w/ 8.8 if he uses a steel shim head gasket and 84cc heads.

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As for the distributor comments - ??
Not up on my ignition mods, so is there any cheap tricks?

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This is a bone stock 70's electronic dist? I would take it apart, solvent clean then blow dry then lube the 2 pins that the 2 weights pivot on, the slight flange on the bottom of each weight where it sits on the pins, the shaft w the spiral rings, the plastic spacer (top/bottom/inside the ID and you've already seperated the flat plates for their cleaning by slipping off the triangle piece that locks them together & lube the 3 flat nubs where one plate rides on the other and lube the other side where the nubs ride as it moves back/forth from the vac adv. Note the amt of (dist) adv on the plate and the vac can for reference. Reassemble and set your initial timing for what your cam/eng likes. In gear at idle adv the dist until you get the most vacuum you can then back it off until the vac gauge drop 1 in hg. Then with the initial finalized open the dist back up (you didn't think this was going to be easy did ya ) and weld up/grind the 2 slots so you end up w 36 total (& note that total and initial are both checked/set with the vac adv disconnected/hose plugged if vac adv is used) and toss the heavy spring w the long loop and add (1) light spring from the MP cellophane kit along with keeping the original light spring that is already in there. You will have to go back inside and change the springs several times if you want to max out your setup (ready to buy the MP (Mallory) externally adjustable unit yet ) and you want a light of spring setup that will keep you just under the pinging point @WOT on your hottest/driest day which will make it come in probably somewhere between 15-2500 rpm then and only then hookup your vac adv (if used) and adj it w a 3/32" allen wrench to again stay just under the pinging limit @ PART throttle on your hottest/driest day with you at a steady speed/load at a rpm where the mech adv is already past max adv. The allen wrench changes at what vac the slope starts and therefore ends and does not alter the AMOUNT of vac a particular can will provide and different cans are available & one w 5-9 (dist) degrees on the arm is a good start. EDIT forgot the pic. MORE EDIT I'm assuming you reused stock pistons w new rings? I'd highly suggest/recommend going 20 over w some KB hypers to get the CR up PLUS quench which will let you run a significantly higher CR on the exact same octane wo pinging and CR is one of the main parameters of power & me personally I want the foundation (short block) to leave nothing on the table so any future upgrade whether it be heads/cam/intake/carb etc is making the MOST out of my eng that it can produce and also a higher CR makes the companion piston develop a much stronger vacuum signal out/up to the carb for better atomization, it's a good deal all the way around and only take a few more $$ to get it right in the beginning I'd CC/measure & find out EXACTLY what you do have for CR

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Thanks for the replies. Moparmuscle says the heads are 79cc stock, and I took a bit off. The CR calulator I was using puts it about 9.25-9.4. I don't need more than that, because I want to run pump gas. Rule of thumb with cast iron heads- 10 points of octane per compression point. Sound reasonable?

As for the distributor comments - ??
Not up on my ignition mods, so is there any cheap tricks?

A couple more build points, if it makes a difference. I put in a windage tray, and file-fit moly rings gapped to .018 on the top. The second ring end gap seams to be a debated issue, but I went with .021; which is still within stock limits, but just.

A pic of the intake port

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