Quote:

---

I've never understood how welding the bars in vs bolting them makes a difference. The bar goes in between the two subframes. It looks like the car flexes underneasth allowing the subframes to draw together, but the bar keeps the floor/body from deflecting by acting as a brace between the frames. doesnt seem that it would matter if they are bolted in or welded as long as they fit tight and dont allow for movement in the subframes/floor/lower part of the car.
Just how I see it maybe I'm missing something

---

Quote:

---

Ignor those instructions. Load the suspension. Many people even put driver weight in the car too.

Also........why not bolt in THEN weld? Take it to a muffler shop--they will weld it for you.

---

That is actually my plan, to eventually weld them.

Thanks for the replies!

Quote:

---

The forces acting on the bolted joint are huge. Its really hard to truly stop all movement at the point of contact with a bolted system. Eventually its VERY likely to move, once you get a little movement it will get worse.

---

Eventually you will wear open some movement with bolt-on connectors even though you may not be able to detect it when you crawl under the car. When we did the welded in home-made frame connectors on my brother's charger, we lifted the car up on jackstands and just tack welded it on in a couple spots, then dropped it down and fully welded it in. Of course having the floor pans out at the time made this a lot easier. Next car I do it on with floor pans in place I will put the front tires up on the ramps and the rear end on jackstands to keep the chassis loaded.

I would not want to have welded them in with the front end up in the air on jackstands and the back wheels down. When it was like this we couldn't open the doors in the car. After the frame connectors we could open the doors when we jacked the front end back up. I think it would be trouble it you welded them in with the chassis incorrectly loaded.