Taking the dart in for a front end alignment. The guy asked me to bring in my own numbers like caster, camber, toeing. What do you guys recommend?

as much caster as you can get - but that depends on your setup - adjustable uppers can get you as much as 7 degrees caster - I've got 4 on my stockers, but thats not common.

camber would be zero in my opinion as you are not cornering.

TOe would be 1/16 or 1/32 depending upon the condition of your parts - are they new? do you have solid tie rod sleeves? you can go alot tighter if you didnt have them.

what you dont want to have is a toe out during braking - the car will flex the tie rod sleeves, and any loose parts during hard braking and could cause toe out, which will be unstable and make the car wander during that instance.

Some prefer to jack the car up to ride height ( 1 to 2" lifted) but that depends on your setup as well - are you using stock strut rods? they cause alot more alignment variation then the adjustable ones - as shown in this picture

standard strut rods :



with RMS adjustable strut rods , qa1's and rms adjustable upper control arms




there was alot of ET in that setup as well.

Just had mine aligned. Make sure you are in the car when doing it. I weigh 210 and I was suprised at the difference when checked with me in it.

I like to see, with the front end raised up one inch, zero camber, as much positive camber that I can get and 1/16 inch toe in That is on a drag race onlyt car

I don't know why but I can't post pictures from work anymore. Here (I hope) is a picture of the suspension. It still has torsion bars but has a rack and pinion with double adjustable upper control arms. Cab I'm trying to get this thing ready to for madras this weekend. The weather is look good.

Correct the thrust line first. <+/-.05

Zero cross camber.
Camber spec:0.0 tol..5

Zero cross caster.
(More positive caster adds high speed stability, but too much pos. caster may cause low speed shimmy, hard steering, and toe change during jounce and rebound.)

To avoid toe change during jounce and rebound the inner and outer tie rods must run parallel to the lower control arm. Excessive positive caster tilts the steering knuckle back and drops the outer tie rod-moving it out of parallel with the lower control arm. Modification to the steering knuckle will be required to correct toe during jounce and rebound. The idler arm and pitman arm can be moved down to achieve the parallelism desired. Just make sure the centerlink is parallel with the ground.

The inner/outer tie rod length should be equal to the length of the lower control arm. Pivot to pivot. Bending the steering arm corrects this.

Cross set-back should be zero. The adjustable strut rod can be used to correct, or shifting the k-member. Set-back should be measured after cross caster has been set to zero.

Confirm cross SAI is <.5 Anything greater than .5 may require a new steering knuckle.

Set toe with a draw strap to pull back the front tires. Front toe should be zero to 1/32 with tension.

I just realised yesterday that this was the first weekend for Madras, I hooked the 4 amp battery charger up to the Duster, inflated the tires, drain the old gas out of the tank and will take it out of the trailer tomorrow and push it into the shop for the once over to have it ready for Saturday I feel the need

We have CAP uppers & dynamic strut rods fitted. Set the alignment yesterday. After five hours I got -.5 deg lhs and -.75deg on rhs camber. With 4.5 degrees of caster on both, I then gave up It's a major chore, rolling the car backwards and forwards lifting the front end, adjustments etc AND when you alter one it effects the other. Last time I had a front end alignment done it cost like 40 quid ($60) and it took 1/2 an hour, he made it look easy . In hindsite I wish I'd took it back there but I'm having another go today.
I will say the front suspension lifts very easy with all the heim joints. It's an extreme difference compared to the stock polybushed stuff. Is it going to wheelstand higher and hit the sump on return? I'm slightly worried about that

Edit. Had another go, got 0 camber 5 degrees caster LHS 0 camber 5.75 degrees caster RHS. How accurate should you be? I'll set the RHS as the left, just having a cup 'o tea

2nd Edit. Set as LHS all within .1 degrees . We'll see if it works in 2 weeks. Couple of wheelstands and I'll probably have to do it all again however