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Alternator idle output #664956
04/09/10 03:38 AM
04/09/10 03:38 AM
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Norway
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General 68 Offline OP
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I am looking at getting a stock appearing alternator that provides enough idle output to not dim the headlights. What alternator should I get? I have been looking at this one but not sure about its idle output. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-7419/

Last edited by General 68; 04/09/10 03:48 AM.
Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664957
04/09/10 10:46 AM
04/09/10 10:46 AM
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Sacramento, CA
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Bdrainy Offline
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I used this alternator for a while and it worked well. It charged at idle (750 rpm)with the headlights on but wouldnt keep up with everything at that RPM.

As soon as I hit about 1000 RPM the alternator handeled everything just fine.

I just took this one off and made the switch to the Denso alternator. Wish I would have done the swap a long time ago!!! Not stock looking but works so well that I dont care!!

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: Bdrainy] #664958
04/09/10 11:15 AM
04/09/10 11:15 AM
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Oregon
hooziewhatsit Offline
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Quote:

I just took this one off and made the switch to the Denso alternator. Wish I would have done the swap a long time ago!!! Not stock looking but works so well that I dont care!!




You don't happen to have a part number for that alt, do you? What amperage is it?


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Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664959
04/09/10 11:28 AM
04/09/10 11:28 AM
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USA
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b54406barrel Offline
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I switched my 6bbl car over to the square back in the 70's. It has good output, never shows a discharge w/lights, heater, wipers, etc. on but, the square back doesn't leave a lot of room using stock brackets. It's a little tight to get the belt on with the alternator pushed tight against the timing cover.

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: hooziewhatsit] #664960
04/09/10 12:27 PM
04/09/10 12:27 PM
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Sacramento, CA
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Bdrainy Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

I just took this one off and made the switch to the Denso alternator. Wish I would have done the swap a long time ago!!! Not stock looking but works so well that I dont care!!




You don't happen to have a part number for that alt, do you? What amperage is it?




I don't know the part number...but its a 60amp unit from a 85-92 toyota 4runner. I got the brackets to mount it from http://www.arengineering.com/

and picked up the alternator on ebay for about $50.

At idle (750rpm) I can have the headlights on (brights), foot on the brake, a blinker on, radio, windshield wipers, and heater blower on full blast and my voltmeter only dipped to 13 volts.

There is a write up about it in the tech archives:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/34.html

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: Bdrainy] #664961
04/09/10 04:57 PM
04/09/10 04:57 PM
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Norway
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General 68 Offline OP
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Maybe dumb question, but what is the difference between the squareback and the older style? I would like the setup to have a stockish look.

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664962
04/09/10 05:14 PM
04/09/10 05:14 PM
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the round back has 1 feild wire

the square back has the new 2 feild wires

you can use a 2 feild wire alt on a one feild wire car by grounding the un-used feild term on the alt

if you still have a points style voltage regulator you can upgrade it to the solid state elect one..way better charging and helps big time with the dim light at idle

best thing I did one the 1 feild wire 68 Dart I had

if you have the 2 feld wire car you can us a external regulated mini alt useing the stock VR on the fire wall..wires up stock..just have to swap the slip on terms for eyeloops on both feild wires

I used stock brackets won the 440 and 85 truck in the sig pic

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664963
04/09/10 05:24 PM
04/09/10 05:24 PM
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b54406barrel Offline
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Quote:

Maybe dumb question, but what is the difference between the squareback and the older style? I would like the setup to have a stockish look.




Mainly the back half of it. It's literally got a rectangular area that holds the heat sink & diodes. Little better diodes & better heat sink & a little less failure prone. Here's a not-great shot from the front & as you can see, not much difference. No one I know of has ever noticed it. The main difference as far as amperage output on chrysler alternators is the armature windings so you can actually switch those out. I wound some myself, years ago but there are several alternator rebuild companies that can fix you up.


Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664964
04/09/10 06:15 PM
04/09/10 06:15 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

I would like the setup to have a stockish look.


You have a 69/earlier single field terminal setup?) I'd suggest a late 70's squareback alt (78 amp iirc but check archives) and ground 1 brush where it mounts to the case, a stock appearing voltage reg w the black case but w electronic internals rather than the stock electromechanical $25 to your door in the US and clean/check voltage drops at EVERY connection and Nacho's 2 extra wires parallel bypass drilled THRU the 2 main feed in/out brass connections in the firewall bulkhead. It'd all look oe ex for the alt somewhat. EDIT Might consider a relay under the hood to feed the headlites directly from the alt output wire side (which'd keep your ammeter reading correctly)

Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/09/10 06:43 PM.

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Re: Alternator idle output [Re: General 68] #664965
04/10/10 02:05 AM
04/10/10 02:05 AM
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Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar Offline
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Quote:

I am looking at getting a stock appearing alternator that provides enough idle output to not dim the headlights. What alternator should I get? I have been looking at this one but not sure about its idle output. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-7419/




Depends on your maximum engine RPM. If you plan to spin the engine 7,000+ RPM you really need an alternator that will handle the high RPM, but if the engine is mild and does not rev really high, you can use a smaller alternator pulley or larger crank pulley to get more power from the alternator at idle (speed up the alternator rpm at idle.)

Re: Alternator idle output [Re: 451Mopar] #664966
04/10/10 04:58 AM
04/10/10 04:58 AM
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Norway
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General 68 Offline OP
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Thanks all! Actually I had an issue with voltage drop through the amp meter last fall. I bypassed it and made sure all connections were good and then the winter came so I haven't got to drive the ar after this. The amp meter might have caused the dim headlights before it got so bad that the voltage drop started hurting the performance. Just wanted to get some ideas around a better alt if last falls repairs didn't fix everything.
I do run a FBO electronic regulator and the main feed is bypassed through the bulkhead. The alt is a 60A 2-field wires (one grounded to the housing). I also run relays to the headlights. What's left to do is the alternator wire mod.

Lars







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