Thanks for the link, what is the rpm range on the 337 I didnt see it listed.

Don

Don, I've just ordered a Scott Brown solid flat tappet stick for my 493 build - with flat tops zero decked for about 11:1 CR. Comp Cams recommended a flat tappet cam for street/strip use as well, as they said it's not as rough on the valve train. This was based on as much as 1000 miles a year including street driving and some time at the track. I should know in the next month or so how it's working out, I'll let you know. Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks for chiming in. My builder said the same thing about the life of the valve train, engine ect. I will keep you posted on what I go with, I will be defulting all decsions to the builder as he has 30 years of mopar drag racing experience and engine building and I trust him fully.

Sounds like me and you will be running close at the track this next year! See you guys when I get back into town.



Don

With 3:23 gears, the car ran 11.53 @ 118 at Monster Mopar. Picked up 8 mph and a full second. Looking to get a little more next weekend @ Bowling Green KY at the Nostalgia Nationals. Big difference in seat-of-the-pants feel...BIG smile on my face!

my old combo was 493. 10.5-1, 590 mp cam. edel heads, tunnel ram w/six pack. 2" headers. 3" full exhaust. 4000 stall, 4.10s. ran 10.50s at 125 at 3800lbs. i shifted at 5800

if i was you, i would do the 337 intake and port the roof of either stealths or rpm heads to match intake. put the biggest 4150 carb on it. a 1050 quickfuel maybe. i would think about a hydrolic roller cam

Don come home Safe and THANK YOU!

I plan on building close to the same combo this winter. I will be around 500 cubes and I plan to use Eddy RPM cnc'd heads. I talked with Dwayne Porter and he will be specing me a cam when I am ready. He also recomended a flat tappet solid as I put over 1000 miles a year on my 63 street driving and I dont want all that spring pressure on my valvetrain as I am getting old and dont want to change out roller lifters and valve springs every 3000 miles. Mine is also street/strip and I plan to run around 11.0 comp as I will use a flattop zero deck piston and will have a cam speced to keep my cyl pressure safe on pump gas. I will use the .040 head gasket with closed chamber heads for good .040 quench. I plan to run a very agressive cam to get the most power and torque out of it as I want the combo to put my 63 solidly in the 10's. And I dont care if it has a lumpy idle as I love that and have a loose enough converter. Good luck on your build and thank you for your service in our armed forces. Ron

Thank you for serving


and your combo is VERY similar to mine too . I would do a roller cam if you can


ive battled real bad weather and gremlins this year , but i know this thing will go at least 10.30's or 6.50 1/8th or so ...

it did turn a 1.411 60' recently . and a 10.40 last may. But we have had brutal humidity/weather from may thru sept. here !

Get a good converter 4-5k and good rear shocks off the top of my head . And call Hughes Engines if you are trying to pick out a certain cam-- they are a great help and mopar only

As mentioned the heads are too small for that CID. Id go a little better on heads, but if you cant, CNC them for sure.

As far as a cam, to get to the 11s you dang sure dont need a roller. If that is all you are after, then ya, Id stick with a flat tappet.

Also, IMO dont call anybody listed in this thread for cam suggestions, but Dwayne Porter...nuff said.

Compression, IMO 383Man has it right, shoot for 11.0 to 1....if you are going to run some duration...if your gonna stay with the baby duration then cut back the comp....

I guess I should update this thread a litte since it has taken on life again.

Here is where Im at:
1973 440 Truck Block
CNC Stealth Heads
Lunati .586 lift solid cam
Gridle & Steel Caps
Mancini 493 stroke kit
2" Inch Primary Headers
Moroso 8qt Oil Pan

Looking into intakes, carbs, harmonic ballancers now.

Currently the engine block is getting all the machine work done it. The engine builder is great at keeping me in the loop and is a great friend.

Also talking through not switching to a exhaust cutout valance and going with a shorter exhaust exit in front of the rear wheels. Currently the car does not have this valance was looking into running it all the way out back, but leaning towards not doing this and going with the shorter exhaust and running some cherry bomb style mufflers stright through design.

Over all goal is to be in the high 10's low 11's. Going to put the cuda on a diet and lose some weight to help this out!

Thanks for the input guys, I appricate all the positive comments! That is what I like about this forum, most like to help out others. Thanks.

Don

Don,,,just so you know whats coming...you will get your car into the 11's
then low 11's
then 10's
then low 10's
then.........

yes Im a speed junky

you should start a what will it run thread don! ill say 11.40

Here is my engine , built by Scot Brown.

http://www.buyracingparts.com/dyno-ehead496.html

just had it freshened up after 800 runs and about 2000 street miles. 3600# with driver It went 10.18 131 mph 1.42 60 foot , that run was in mineshaft air -382 feet. usually goes 10.41

CAPER, thats a beautiful car

Thanks man.
http://s85.photobucket.com/home/caper_2006/index

I love my 493 Street/Strip combo:
Eagle crank
K-1 rods
Wiseco pistons
Indy EZ heads from Nick Wilson
Comp 588 XTQ series solid flat cam
Eddy Performer RPM intake
Quick Fuel/Pro-Max 1050 carb.
Isky iron rockers done by Gary at RAS
10.9 to 1 compression on pump gas
6.96 @ 97.5 1/8 mile
11.13 @ 125.4 1/4 mile
I also STRONGLY recommend the Firecore distributor ,wires and coil
Car is 3560# with me,3.54 gear in the rear,3.27 low gear.
Gus

I'd definately go with the indy 440-2d intake, 337 flows more on a BIG motor but you don't have enough head onthat combo to make it pay off, the 2D will keep up with 360+ cfm heads....plus the 337 ports are on the small side, need a good bit of work to go to MX and they're really too big to work on a 906 port unless it's opened up a pretty good bit.

I'd run a Bullet Hydraulic roller around 258/264 @ .050 on 108 in at 104, you could run a solid roller but the spring pressure you'd need to run it won't be worth the trade off unless you're spinning +6500, my (slightly bigger) bullet spins 6800 without problem and the MW self-ported 440-2d has no trouble keeping up with Chapman Stage VI's Maxies that outflow most BB wedge heads (other than a B-1) on both sides. Bullet sure makes some sweet HR stuff. I thought about a 337 (and I have one all set to go), but my 'little' 517 probably needs another 40 cubes or about a .720+ lift solid roller cam for it to pay off (ie, to gain more power than it gives up in torque/throttle response). Guy's have tested the 337 vs the 2d on some BIG (572") motors with Big heads and it's worth 40-50 over a 2d, but I doubt the spread would be anything close to that on MY 2d (and I offered it up several times)

When comaparing a single plane to a dual plane it's generally accepted that a Dual plane wants/needs a bit larger CFM carb to make a fair max HP comparison, you have to compensate for the fact that each intake runner is not exposed to all 4 barrels at WOT like it is when using a single plane.

IMO the ultimate street 500" intake would be a ported MW 2d with a 4500 flange The Pro-systems tweaked 1000HP responds like a GP sportbike on my motor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd8GeXYYkKU

anyone else like the old TM7

While I agree this type of combo doesn't really "need" a roller camshaft, when the budget allows I think a mild roller is a good choice. No need to chase down boutique oil or use additives, no break in required are a couple reasons. No doubt a flat tappet will get the job done though.

If done correctly the engine combo should definitely make enough power for high 10s, low 11s in a street/strip type of build in a b/e body...I don't think anyone here would debate that.

The main things I can add are, don't forget about converter, suspension,tires, and the rest of the car.

Myself I have a long way to go on suspension but am getting there over time. To give an idea how much work I have left to do....my battery is still under the hood...and I had stock shocks until fairly recently.....so I'm kinda speaking from experience. 600+HP is nice to have but putting it to the ground is a whole other thing.

For comparison, mine is:
'71 casting 400 w/ground/reworked oe 440 crank, 451ci
10.75:1, Diamond/Manley pistons and rods
E heads with no porting
.630 endurance grind solid roller
Home ported Victor, 1000cfm Race Demon
2" super comps, 3.5" X pipe, ultraflows
4500 stall, 4.10 dana
wrapped in my rusty b body
Best et so far in signature...

No it isn't a 493 but the performance levels are similar and the top end of the motor is very similar. More cubes should make the job easier to do as long as it can be made to hook up.