400 block, .020 over, KB quench domes, 440 rods, 3,75 stroke, 9.5:1, Perf. Rpm, 2400 stall, 727 manual valvebody, 1.75" 3" coll., 3.91.

933 springs, so am limited to 500 lift

This thing is all torque with a .484. But the cam needs to be changed.

1/8th mile strip.

I was thinking an XE268H?

I'd look at the XE274H

Call Scott Brown and have him grind you one up. They are about the same as any other on the market.

I have used them all but the big Summit brand 224-234 465 488 is just a great street cam for a big block--sounds bigger than it is, has great manors and pulls hard through mid range--HARD to beat at just $62 or around $100 with lifters.

Lunati voodoo 60303. It's about 1/2 way between the comp xe268 and 274. With your stall and compression it will work perfect. I run that cam in a low-cr 440 and it does decent.

when you say it's a torque monster with a .484, which .484 are you talking about? the MP cam? that cam is pretty huge, duration wise, 284 adv and around 240@.050, with lots of overlap..it's actually the next step up from the stock street hemi..I would've expected it to be soft even in a 440 until about 3000 RPM....compare this to the lunati 337A1, which has the same gross lift (well, .485) but only 266 adv. duration and 220 deg duration at .050....

if you want the "sound" but nice torque while keeping under .5" lift, I'd look at the summit cam, which is about the same size .050 duration wise as a comp XE268, but has a lot bigger advertised duration and about 7 degrees more overlap

You guys...the Voodoo and Extreme Energy and Hughes etc are all "beat the hell out of the valvetrain" MAX use of 904 lifter trouble makers--OK so you go Hughes--oops need lots of spring pressure--Use up the one big advantage a Mopar has ( enough lifter diameter) with some grind of the year- bull---all they are selling is lobe eaters ( that make a lot of clatter and other valvetrain noise)and all you are supposed to get in return is a few more HP ?? Crazy talk if you ask me--go back and read Cam ads from the 60's until now--they all sound the same--No darn computer has ever driven a car and knows what an engine likes--in the real world today you need to KEEP the lobes on the cam! Gentle cam lobe designs can do this without much pressure and they will still make your engine strong--Good grief!! Max out everything on paper and do the perfect build--yea right--Some guy will take a re ringed 440 with that $62 Summit grind and have a WAY better runing machine for less than you pay for car insurance.
The Mopar 484 can be a DOG if not advanced and is NOT a good street cam compared to others available.

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the mopar 484 cam is NOT a torque cam and it is NOT a mild street cam. It likes 10:1, 3400 stall and 3.91+ gears to work well. It's pulls form about 3k up. Great for a bracket car, not for a driver.

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I guess that is up to opinion. I ran the .509 which has 8 degrees more at .050. I dont know how much more overlap it has than the .484, but Id figure a few degrees at the least. At least for me the .509 ran fine and dandy. It was not soggy at all on the bottom end, and drove around town as well as the Erson (228@.050, .476) that was in another motor I had. FWIW, my current cam is a [Email]259@.050[/Email], .585 lift solid. It drives around town pretty nice also. Not flat at all on the street, and Ive ran 3.23s to 4.30s and it drives fine. It is a tricky dude to tune for a decent idle, but its on a 108 and in at 103, so that doesnt help with idle quality.

To the op, if it were me Id look at the Erson I mentioned earlier. I had that cam in a absolutely worn out (5 psi oil pressure when hot)440 with both a CH4B intake and a M1. Small headers, stock converter, and 3.55s @ 3850lbs. I went from a stock cam to it and it made a BIG difference. Id say probably .6-7. difference. Has a decent lope to it as well.

The motor was making awesome power to 5800, and none after.

I figured it would be better to take advantage of that low end grunt with a cam that promotes torque over horsepower.

The track I go to is 1/8th mile so I thought torque would be better over top end.