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Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663970
04/15/10 08:08 AM
04/15/10 08:08 AM
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Upper Midwest
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I can't believe this - 59 replies to a thread like this. What is the big deal? Degreeing a cam is degreeing a cam whether it is is in or out of a vehicle. So what if there are some obstacles to work around. The basics are still the same. Sure it is easier out in the open but it is not a major hurdle if it is done later or you want to change the degree for one reason or another.

Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: MoparforLife] #663971
04/15/10 08:35 AM
04/15/10 08:35 AM
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Jarrettsville, MD
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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Someone else local to me mentioned that I shouldn’t drill the whole for the bushing the whole way through. Looking at how it all works I just don’t see how that will work? Right now looking at the cam sprocket, the dowel pin on the cam is flush with the outside surface of the cam sprocket. So if I do not drill it all the way through that will mean that the dowel pin will go through the offset bushing and then bottom out on the portion of the cam sprocket that was left undrilled….therefore the cam sprocket would not bolt up flush to the cam. Plus, the washer for the cam bolt covers the bushing anyway so there is no way it will fall out….unless the bolt comes out and at that point I think I would have bigger problems. Anyway….I would like to mess around with the offset bushings tonight so let me know what you guys think.

Moparforlife….all I can say is I am learning as I go and all of the responses I have received to this thread have been very helpful and I appreciate all the help. Sorry if it is a little boring for people well versed in this subject.

Dodgeem.. the crankshaft socket is Comp Cam part# 4799.


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663972
04/15/10 08:55 AM
04/15/10 08:55 AM
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Upper Midwest
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My point being that whether it is is in or out of the vehicle the procedure is the basically the same. There may be a few obstacles to work around but the procedure is the same as will the end result

Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: MoparforLife] #663973
04/15/10 09:36 AM
04/15/10 09:36 AM
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Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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Quote:

My point being that whether it is is in or out of the vehicle the procedure is the basically the same. There may be a few obstacles to work around but the procedure is the same as will the end result




So you added two more post of unhelpfull dripple to a thread you personaly deem to long. Move on when you see more than 0 replies and make us all happy.

Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: MoparforLife] #663974
04/15/10 09:37 AM
04/15/10 09:37 AM
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Quote:

My point being that whether it is is in or out of the vehicle the procedure is the basically the same. There may be a few obstacles to work around but the procedure is the same as will the end result


Thread really has little to do with the actual mechanics of it, but more about the miraculous improvement in performance that will be seen ( even guaranteed )by advancing the cam 4 degrees. I'm sure the proof will be in - "the seat of the pants"


Fastest 300
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663975
04/15/10 09:44 AM
04/15/10 09:44 AM
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Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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Dodgeem.. the crankshaft socket is Comp Cam part# 4799.




Thats what I use I do use large pump plyers to tighten the nut holding the wheel so it don't move. and after helping a fried install a Milodon gear drive I put twp more set screws in either side of the small keyway as the one that is there now is always way under neath??
yeas the offsets bushings will stay were you put them and the washer holds them in. seen some lock tight them but the Cloyes 9 keyway rocks as do Milodon gear drives.

Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663976
04/15/10 08:29 PM
04/15/10 08:29 PM
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Jarrettsville, MD
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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Dodgeem: When I said earlier that I advanced the crank sprocket I didn't use an offset key. The crank sprocket has 3 keyways in it. One for straight up, one for +4* advance, and one for -4* retard. I just rotated the sprocket and used the +4* advance keyway in the sprocket.

I messed around with the Comp Cams cam sprocket offset bushings tonight. Here is what I have so far...

straight up 108.5* intake

+4* crank 104.5* intake

+4* crank / +2* cam 103.5* intake

+4* crank / +4* cam 101.5* intake
114.0* exhaust

I was going to pull the cam sprocket off again to mess around with some Crane Cams bushings I have but it was really snug and I couldn't wiggle it off so I figured it was a sign to leave it there. What do you think...101.5* which will end up at 102.0* once the chain stretches...right.

I noticed the rpm range Mopar publishes for the .509 cam is 2,600 - 6,000. At the track I have always shifted at 6K. Is there a chance I am advancing it too much?

I want to check the PTV clearances while I have it apart. If I set the piston at TDC when I install the lighter springs is that enough insurance against dropping a valve down in the cylinder?


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663977
04/15/10 09:01 PM
04/15/10 09:01 PM
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Canton, Ohio
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102 is fine IMO, I wish I would of put mine at 102. Lots of guys like to install the MP 590 between 99* and 101* for best performance.

Installing your MP 509 at 102* isnt out of the Performance perimeter of that cam , by any means.

At 102 with your 10.1 comp your cranking psi may get close to Race gas octane needs for driving around the street under load. And with its less duration compared the 590 will lose some HP over 6000 rpm. But with your combo I dont think that will matter.



I say run it as is at 102* and let us know the difference in how it runs. With your 3000 stall vert it will be a good thing, IMO "Guarenteed"

I also understood that you werent using the crank offset keys.

And by the way document your cranking PSI @ 110* retarded vs 102* advanced. Ive seen a 20# psi. difference just by advancing 4*

Advancing a cam by 4* to 6* doesnt hurt the overall HP below 6000 RPM it just makes a Bigger cam seem smaller at lower RPM. mike

Last edited by Sport440; 04/15/10 09:53 PM.

73 Sport 440, 509 cam w/Eddys 3.91 and 28.1"/27.3 tire. Et. 60 ft. 1.435, 1/8th. 6.61 @ 101.80 mph. 1/4. 10.472 / 127.78 mph. 2950# race/with me,and pump gas.
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Sport440] #663978
04/15/10 09:30 PM
04/15/10 09:30 PM
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Jarrettsville, MD
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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Ok...I am going to go with it where it is.

I measured the cranking PSI before I started and it was 140psi.


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663979
04/15/10 10:16 PM
04/15/10 10:16 PM
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Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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OK I'm confused you got a gear set with just three keyways and then used an offset bushing???

What happened to the cloyes 9 keyway you were getting??

if your confident your right go for it 101.5 then chain stretch will be 102 and that will kick ass.
Trust me not a chance you are advancing it too much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Dodgem; 04/15/10 10:18 PM.
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663980
04/15/10 10:24 PM
04/15/10 10:24 PM
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Your cranking compression should go to 155 or more.
let us know!

don't forget the engine timing after your done. It is a good indicator of what you did as if you advance the cam 6 deg the timing will have advanced 6 deg

Oh it will still like 6000

Last edited by Dodgem; 04/15/10 10:24 PM.
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663981
04/15/10 10:24 PM
04/15/10 10:24 PM
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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No, I got the Cloyes "Original True Roller" set. The crank socket only has 3 keyways cut in it. The 9 keyway would have been nice but there is no going back now


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663982
04/15/10 10:30 PM
04/15/10 10:30 PM
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Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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Quote:

No, I got the Cloyes "Original True Roller" set. The crank socket only has 3 keyways cut in it. The 9 keyway would have been nice but there is no going back now




how ever you get there is fine!!
I want a ride when your done!

We did my friends 590 mopar solid that way + 4 put us in at 99.5 worked good but this winter he milled another .040 off the heads so we needed to back the cam timing up slightly so we used The +4 slot and a bushing to get 101 and just the valve clearance we needed.

Last edited by Dodgem; 04/16/10 08:28 AM.
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663983
04/15/10 10:55 PM
04/15/10 10:55 PM
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Beeton Ontario. Canada
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Following this thread regularly as I have a similar setup in my 66 Charger, 440 six pack with a 727 and a 2800 stall converter and a 390:1 rear.
A little lazy at the bottom but wakes up strong in the midrange rpm.
Wicked idle, steady, with 8-10" of vacuum.

Just wondering what Lifters your using ?
Would Rhoads lifters be a nice addition to the .509
degree'd at 102* ?



patiently awaiting your end results
Great Thread

Ron
Beeton Ont
Can.

Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: BigSugar] #663984
04/15/10 11:43 PM
04/15/10 11:43 PM
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Dodgem Offline
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Quote:

Following this thread regularly as I have a similar setup in my 66 Charger, 440 six pack with a 727 and a 2800 stall converter and a 390:1 rear.
A little lazy at the bottom but wakes up strong in the midrange rpm.
Wicked idle, steady, with 8-10" of vacuum.

Just wondering what Lifters your using ?
Would Rhoads lifters be a nice addition to the .509
degree'd at 102* ?



patiently awaiting your end results
Great Thread

Ron
Beeton Ont
Can.




You idle will improve advancing that cam to 102/103 3 and it will be WEEE HAAA from the hit of the throttle.
I've never used Rhoads but you won't need them advance it up and see.

Last edited by Dodgem; 04/15/10 11:44 PM.
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663985
04/16/10 09:05 PM
04/16/10 09:05 PM
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Jarrettsville, MD
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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Alright guys...are there any secrets to getting the valve springs off so I can put on the light springs to check ptv clearance? I have a spring compressor that is a fork style with the wheel that turns on the top to compress the spring.

The springs on the Eddy heads have some kind of flat spring on the inside of the actual valve spring. The fork doesn't grab the inner flat spring. Is this a problem?

I can compress the outer spring and get a lot of up and down play in the valve and spring but the valve retainer doesn't budge so I can't get to the locks? Help.


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663986
04/16/10 09:19 PM
04/16/10 09:19 PM
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Crizila Offline
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Quote:

Alright guys...are there any secrets to getting the valve springs off so I can put on the light springs to check ptv clearance? I have a spring compressor that is a fork style with the wheel that turns on the top to compress the spring.

The springs on the Eddy heads have some kind of flat spring on the inside of the actual valve spring. The fork doesn't grab the inner flat spring. Is this a problem?

I can compress the outer spring and get a lot of up and down play in the valve and spring but the valve retainer doesn't budge so I can't get to the locks? Help.


That flat spring is a damper. You are probably going to have to air up the chambers go get enough room to remove the keepers ( verses using the piston at TDC ), especially with that type of spring compressor. You really need to invest in an over center lever type spring compressor.


Fastest 300
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Crizila] #663987
04/16/10 09:30 PM
04/16/10 09:30 PM
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tywebb2 Offline OP
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Anybody have a link to a good over the top lever type spring compressor?


'72 440 Cuda
11.673 @ 115.91 w/1.663 60'
Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: tywebb2] #663988
04/16/10 11:39 PM
04/16/10 11:39 PM
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Ontario, Canada
Dodgem Offline
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Re: Question about degreeing cam in car [Re: Dodgem] #663989
04/16/10 11:44 PM
04/16/10 11:44 PM
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Dodgem Offline
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I like to have the piston up and use air to hold valves up.
You know you can just use the adjuster on the rocker put the piston 10 before TDC and with dial indicator on retainer turn down till it touches. see how far back off and then 5 before then tdc the 5 after and 10 after

If you had 160 before I would expect .100 now or more.

Last edited by Dodgem; 04/16/10 11:45 PM.
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