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yes it cools down when you revv it in N,

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timing is 15 initial, 20 deg mech adv, total 35 plus vac adv 14 (ported port)

yes it cools down when you revv it in N,

Mr Gasket highflow stat.

50/50 mix.

So i've been reading posts i searched for on dodge charger board while moparts was down, and found this one: web page

at the end on page 2, he says it was the fuel pump in the end. Now hear me out, last night my car actually died on me at about 190, i started it back up held the rpms at 2000 for a min and drove off, after several attempts of this i was off, and drove 20 mi home with no problems (but always moving, temps were at 180 moving, and creeping up at lights, but they were all short), but i have been noticing lately it's not running that good idle when hot as it used to. I don't know why it starts running like crap when it's hot, but i'm putting 2 and 2 together here and thinking that the fuel pump is getting hot, and failing, at idle causing a lean condition which = HEAT, and ultimately my problem. I'm sure my combo, parts used are good in the cooling system, and this just doesn't make cents. Whatcha think? ummm?


I don't want to throw parts at this like alum rad, fan, i should be able to cool with totally stock stuff, which by the way is all NEW, new rad, belts, water pump, hoses, stat, rad cap, ect....i'm done with the cooling system, it's all new stock stuff it should be enough to cool my stock motor no?

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I think you're on to something. I've been watching this thread and it contains lots of good cooling system tips.However I don't feel 200 is too hot. My car will creep up to 200-210 in traffic on a hot day,but it never affects how it runs. I would look long and hard at fuel and fuel delivery,from the tank to the carb. Maybe borrow a different carb to try?
If your car creeps up to 220-230 or higher,forget everything I said and go back to your cooling system. But I wouldn't worry about 200 and it should't cause running issues! Good luck

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yes it cools down when you revv it in N,

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The fact that it cools down when you rev it makes testing for the problem quite a bit easier.

The mixture and timing issues you are looking at are a possibility, but other things are much more likely.

To zero in on the problem:

Take the temp of the radiator at the inlet and at the outlet (buy/borrow an infrared gun). You should have somewhere in the 25 to 30 degree temp drop from inlet to outlet.

If you have less than 20 degrees temp drop, you are probably looking at low airflow. Not enough air to cool the water going through the radiator.

If you have more than 30 degrees temp drop, you are probably looking at low water flow. Not enough water to carry the heat out of the engine.

If you have the right temp drop, and the engine still heats up, then you are looking at being low on both water and airflow, or perhaps the mixture and timing issues.

Also try running it with the hood open. If it stays cool with the hood open, you have another thing that says airflow shortage.

If you have an airflow issue try the following tests.

With engine idling and the hood closed, reach in through the grill area and feel for airflow at the radiator. All the airflow should be INTO the radiator. Many times you will feel air coming back out of the radiator, especially at the corners. All this does is recycle already hot air and makes a huge difference in cooling. If you find air coming back out, it is very likely it is because the fan is too far into the shrould. Especially on tapered shrouds, the air will get pushed back out. Remember that a very large part of the air comes out the ends of the blades and if it hits the taper of the shroud it will be directed back towards the radiator. As I said earlier, having only .375 of an inch of fan in the shroud worked the best for me. Also check to see if hot air is finding its way back to the front of the radiator out around any openings by the radiator, or bouncing off something and coming back along the ground.

If the fan in the shroud doesn't do it, and you are still low on flow, try another fan. When I tested them, the 7 and 5 blade (on clutches) fans moved about the same amount of air, and stalled the clutch at the same rpm. I like the 5 because it is quieter, lighter and easier to install.

I that still doesn't do it, you will need to look at spinning it faster with different pulleys.

If the testing shows a water flow issue, that is easy to fix with a bigger pump and high flow thermostat, or by speeding up the pump with pulley changes.

Be methodical and collect your data carefully, and I think you will be able to track it down.

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Not sure if you looked into it, but even new parts can be defective. You might have something brand new, but if the problem still exists, you automatically assume it's another cause. I remember having electrical issues on my '69 Charger almost 30 years ago & the same thing happened. I put in several new parts for whatever it was back then, but the issue was still there. I finally gave up & brought it to a shop where a friend worked & they diagnosed the problem being one of the new items I installed. I spent hours & lots of money chasing a problem I had & never thought to make sure I had working parts to begin with.

I saw a lot of good info suggested on this thread, but sometimes the simplest things are always overlooked.

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The only Mopar cooling problems I've had, once all systems were clean and working properly, were cars that had the OEM radiator changed with an inferior replacement or recored with a cheap core.

Most of the replacement cores and radiators have a low fin count and fewer tubes than the OEM units. Pay extra for the good stuff if you want a cool running motor. A core with 1 or 2 extra rows may be needed if the motor is modified, otherwise the OEM count should work on near stock motors. BTW, I've never seen a 3 or 4 core radiator, radiators have 1 core with 2, 3 or 4 rows.

My '70 440-6 Bee runs cool with the OEM 22" radiator in the summer here in FL, were as my 225 slant six '68 Signet with a 19" replacement tends to heat up at highway speeds.

How good were the OEM units when new? Even the 440-6 C bodies came with a 22" radiator!

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yes but this same rad did cool the car, now all of a sudden running hot, surge at cruise, heating at idle, and it DIES at 190-195????

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well here's an update. I installed the rubber seal between the hood and rad support. I installed a 180* deg Mr Gasket high-flow stat. also removed the pusher electric fan. Now everything is stock except the high flow stat. WHAT A HUGE DIFFERENCE. The car used to drive (correction to my old post now that i payed attention to the gauge) 190 when crusin, and creeped from there at a stop, probably reaching 200 then vapor lock symptoms were setting in. Now it cruises at 175-180; it cycles between there, you can see the stat open and close, when it opens it drops instantly to 175, then slowly goes to 180. Last night i put the parking brake on, left it idling in gear for 15 mins, after a 1hr drive, and it stayed rock solid at 180. Plus i can hardly believe how much less engine compartment heat there is now. Also one thing that i thought was stupid when i was doing, but did anyways was wrap the fuel line in tinfoil. to my total amazement the fuel line is cold now, where before it was almost impossible to touch > that one blew me away. Anyways, i still have the milodon high flow pump on order, i'll put that in as well and i'm positive my running hot issues are solved now. thanks for all the help guys, i was really stumped on this one. i could not believe regular old tin foil was so effective at reflecting heat as it does. The part of the fuel line that i didn't wrap with foil was hot, and the part i did was totally cold!!!! i have a new item to add to my tool box as well as the following "must have items": duct tape, electrical tape, zip ties, JB weld, hammer, automotive GOOP, TIN FOIL!!!! i'm convinced that with these items anything can be fixed!!!

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You can't believe what a good aluminum foil deflector beanie will do either! Put one on while you drive around and you'll be amazed! It will actually make you forget that anything is wrong with the car at all!

http://zapatopi.net/afdb/

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Better check your fuel pump pushrod, a lot of your driveability problems my stem from a rod that is short and not filling your bowls compleatly. these usually wear out.

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just pulled the fuel pump out, the push rod measures exactly to the service manual specs, with no wear at all. pump feels by hand to be really week when compared to the new one....

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Martin I'm just wondering what changed from when it was ok to now all of a sudden when it's acting up(vac leak,bad gas,pinhole leak in head gasket) but if it was something obvious I'm sure you would already know what it is. Dont give up we are with you on this one

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I'm wondering the same, NOTHING CHANGED, this has progressively been getting worse and worse. Vac is 17" at idle in gear hot, rock steady. NO oil being used, NO coolant being used either, coolant perfectly clear, no scum/bubbles when running hot at idle, or when revved....so i would think the head gasket is fine...