I have a friend installing a B1 Headed 557 into an A Body Coupe. What is the best Motor Plate set up? A one piece deal or the more common Ears arrangement? Pics would be a great help.
Thanks in Advance.

AL....

It's a 70 Valiant Hardtop if that helps.

AL....

Sorry no pics but I'm a firm believer in the single
one piece plate... the ears or 2 piece plate will flex
and pivot and alot of times loosen the bolts

And a lot neater look also.

I can't remember who made it but I had 1 piece ears a while back. I do prefer a one piece design.

Mancini sells a 3/8 thick motor plate for A body big block cars.

Thanks for the replies. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't some reason i couldn't run a 1 piece motor plate. I will measuring the car up and drawing the plate up in CAD. Then I will have the plate waterjet cut.
Thanks again, I will have some idea what it should look like.
AL.....

I would'nt bother to make one, not with our dollar the level it is,

I made mine from a blank from S & W race cars. It had the cut out for timing chain cover, water pump holes and bolts. The cost was only slightly more than I could purchase a piece of 6061-T6 alum for locally.
Also don't forget that unless you are going to replace firewall and transmission tunnel, you need to offset the mount about 1.25" to passengers side(unless its a right side steer, then I don't know what to tell you).

I bought mine from Chris Alston Chassisworks.. You could chop it down bigtime and lighten it up as much as you want... Around 100.00 if I remember correctly

I will be looking at both options. I will be getting pricing on buying a S&W unit and the raw material. I have a full CNC shop to use, so making one would only cost me time.
AL....

When I bought my midplate from S&W, I had them lengthen the side by an inch. They did it for free.

You may want to find out the width of S&W's motor plate. If it is too short on one side for the offset you need, ask if they can make it wider for you. Then you could cut off what you don't need.