Subframe question
#651705
03/26/10 09:19 AM
03/26/10 09:19 AM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943
San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
1968RR
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943
San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
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I'm going to be adding a subframe to my car in the next few weeks, and I'm trying to decide whether or not to go with a bolt-on or weld-in kit. Most of the weld-in kits that I've seen require the leaf springs to be moved inward. Is this difficult to do? What advantages do the weld-in kits give? 
"When I'm in a slump, I comfort myself by saying if I believe in dinosaurs, then somewhere, they must be believing in me. And if they believe in me, then I can believe in me." - Mookie Wilson
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: 1968RR]
#651706
03/26/10 09:58 AM
03/26/10 09:58 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,221
Branson, Mo.
joedust451
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,221
Branson, Mo.
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Quote:
I'm going to be adding a subframe to my car in the next few weeks, and I'm trying to decide whether or not to go with a bolt-on or weld-in kit. Most of the weld-in kits that I've seen require the leaf springs to be moved inward. Is this difficult to do? What advantages do the weld-in kits give?
Its best to weld them in, why would you need to move the leafs inward for weld ins? All the back part does is slide up over the front part of the rear frame, then just weld them on (along with the front of coarse), even on a B body it should be about the same design. I just did a set for my dart, useing 11 gauge (.129") 1x2" stock, i was out about 18.00 in material, it was fairly easy & will serve its purpose. All you really need to do is use the "bolt-ins" & weld them up. 
Last edited by joedust451; 03/26/10 10:06 AM.
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#651708
03/26/10 01:19 PM
03/26/10 01:19 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 113
S.E. Wisconsin
darepairman
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 113
S.E. Wisconsin
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I just made mine out of 4x3x.125 tubing to fit over the rear frame rail and cut to the contour of the floor boards then welded them in. Ed
The Event Horizon is on its way
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: 383man]
#651710
03/26/10 11:17 PM
03/26/10 11:17 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Even if you buy bolt in ones you can weld them in also which is best. Ron
100% agree with that. had a friend lose the bolts in one at the top end of his run, it jumped lanes and got the car in the left lane. freak occurance but none-the-less. plus its ties in the body alot better.
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: dirtybee]
#651713
03/27/10 01:59 PM
03/27/10 01:59 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
did you guys have to re-route fuel and brake lines when installing your connectors? sorry, hijack, but it's also a 
Had to reroute the fuel line and have to drill a hole thru the drivers side frame connector for the e-brake cable to pass through.
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: 383man]
#651716
03/27/10 10:33 PM
03/27/10 10:33 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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Quote:
Even if you buy bolt in ones you can weld them in also which is best. Ron
This is true, but the real idea is to weld them to the floor at their full length. Most bolt in ones only contact the front and rear subframes. Welding them at these points is undoubtedly better than bolting them in, but not as good as a set that contours and welds to the floors on their full length.
With all that said, I just installed a set of C-E bolt in units into my Satellite. They fit perfectly, and installed in a few hours. I'm sure they'll be adequate for my 12 second street car., and help out a bunch with both traction, and keeping the car from coming apart.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: Subframe question
[Re: dirtybee]
#651718
03/27/10 11:09 PM
03/27/10 11:09 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
anyone have pics of where the front of the connector meets the torsion bar crossmember? i guess the previous owner of my car made new fuel and brake lines and didn't route them as the factory did. oh well, more work for me........ yay 
On my brother's 66 charger, the frame connector overlaps the hole in the torsion bar crossmember that the fuel line originally went through. You can either drill a new hole to the side or reroute some other way.
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