Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Subframe question #651705
03/26/10 09:19 AM
03/26/10 09:19 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943
San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
1968RR Offline OP
top fuel
1968RR  Offline OP
top fuel

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,943
San Angelo, Texas, U.S.A.
I'm going to be adding a subframe to my car in the next few weeks, and I'm trying to decide whether or not to go with a bolt-on or weld-in kit. Most of the weld-in kits that I've seen require the leaf springs to be moved inward. Is this difficult to do? What advantages do the weld-in kits give?


"When I'm in a slump, I comfort myself by saying if I believe in dinosaurs, then somewhere, they must be believing in me. And if they believe in me, then I can believe in me." - Mookie Wilson
Re: Subframe question [Re: 1968RR] #651706
03/26/10 09:58 AM
03/26/10 09:58 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,221
Branson, Mo.
J
joedust451 Offline
super gas
joedust451  Offline
super gas
J

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,221
Branson, Mo.
Quote:

I'm going to be adding a subframe to my car in the next few weeks, and I'm trying to decide whether or not to go with a bolt-on or weld-in kit. Most of the weld-in kits that I've seen require the leaf springs to be moved inward. Is this difficult to do? What advantages do the weld-in kits give?




Its best to weld them in, why would you need to move the leafs inward for weld ins? All the back part does is slide up over the front part of the rear frame, then just weld them on (along with the front of coarse), even on a B body it should be about the same design. I just did a set for my dart, useing 11 gauge (.129") 1x2" stock, i was out about 18.00 in material, it was fairly easy & will serve its purpose. All you really need to do is use the "bolt-ins" & weld them up.

Last edited by joedust451; 03/26/10 10:06 AM.

75 Duster, 451 10.87 @ 123.58 NA 97 Z28 6sp., 12.01 @ 115 on a 100 shot 71 Swinger. 360 magnum. 12.58 @ 105 78 cutlass, 469 BBC. 12.70 @ 108 on street tires. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2kqNmMfheU
Re: Subframe question [Re: joedust451] #651707
03/26/10 11:46 AM
03/26/10 11:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
For the frame connectors I used 2"x3"x.100" square tube. I notched the front of the rear subframe so the square tube would fit inside the stock rear subframe. It fits inside quite nicely. The back 1/2 of the connector protrudes through the floor pan but it's not a big deal and quite easy to install.

Re: Subframe question [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #651708
03/26/10 01:19 PM
03/26/10 01:19 PM
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 113
S.E. Wisconsin
darepairman Offline
member
darepairman  Offline
member

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 113
S.E. Wisconsin
I just made mine out of 4x3x.125 tubing to fit over the rear frame rail and cut to the contour of the floor boards then welded them in. Ed


The Event Horizon is on its way
Re: Subframe question [Re: darepairman] #651709
03/26/10 10:57 PM
03/26/10 10:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
3
383man Offline
Too Many Posts
383man  Offline
Too Many Posts
3

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
Even if you buy bolt in ones you can weld them in also which is best. Ron

Re: Subframe question [Re: 383man] #651710
03/26/10 11:17 PM
03/26/10 11:17 PM

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A



Quote:

Even if you buy bolt in ones you can weld them in also which is best. Ron



100% agree with that. had a friend lose the bolts in one at the top end of his run, it jumped lanes and got the car in the left lane. freak occurance but none-the-less. plus its ties in the body alot better.

Re: Subframe question #651711
03/27/10 12:49 PM
03/27/10 12:49 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,278
San Jose, California
D
DennisH Offline
Vacation
DennisH  Offline
Vacation
D

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,278
San Jose, California
US Cartool.

Re: Subframe question [Re: DennisH ] #651712
03/27/10 12:54 PM
03/27/10 12:54 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 807
Toronto, Canada
D
dirtybee Offline
super stock
dirtybee  Offline
super stock
D

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 807
Toronto, Canada
did you guys have to re-route fuel and brake lines when installing your connectors? sorry, hijack, but it's also a

Re: Subframe question [Re: dirtybee] #651713
03/27/10 01:59 PM
03/27/10 01:59 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
Quote:

did you guys have to re-route fuel and brake lines when installing your connectors? sorry, hijack, but it's also a




Had to reroute the fuel line and have to drill a hole thru the drivers side frame connector for the e-brake cable to pass through.

Re: Subframe question [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #651714
03/27/10 03:04 PM
03/27/10 03:04 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,278
San Jose, California
D
DennisH Offline
Vacation
DennisH  Offline
Vacation
D

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,278
San Jose, California
Just the e-brake pass through.

Re: Subframe question [Re: DennisH ] #651715
03/27/10 06:53 PM
03/27/10 06:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 807
Toronto, Canada
D
dirtybee Offline
super stock
dirtybee  Offline
super stock
D

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 807
Toronto, Canada
anyone have pics of where the front of the connector meets the torsion bar crossmember? i guess the previous owner of my car made new fuel and brake lines and didn't route them as the factory did. oh well, more work for me........ yay

Re: Subframe question [Re: 383man] #651716
03/27/10 10:33 PM
03/27/10 10:33 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
S
StealthWedge67 Offline
master
StealthWedge67  Offline
master
S

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
Quote:

Even if you buy bolt in ones you can weld them in also which is best. Ron




This is true, but the real idea is to weld them to the floor at their full length. Most bolt in ones only contact the front and rear subframes. Welding them at these points is undoubtedly better than bolting them in, but not as good as a set that contours and welds to the floors on their full length.

With all that said, I just installed a set of C-E bolt in units into my Satellite. They fit perfectly, and installed in a few hours. I'm sure they'll be adequate for my 12 second street car., and help out a bunch with both traction, and keeping the car from coming apart.


LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
Re: Subframe question [Re: StealthWedge67] #651717
03/27/10 10:42 PM
03/27/10 10:42 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,295
dark side of the moon
D
Dougsmopars Offline
top fuel
Dougsmopars  Offline
top fuel
D

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,295
dark side of the moon
The bolt on ones are fine for a street sometime race car. There easy to install and do work. They will help keep the doors from going out of alignment from twisting up. On a full race car the full welded set is much better. All out race car is going to twist up more then a street/strip car will.

Re: Subframe question [Re: dirtybee] #651718
03/27/10 11:09 PM
03/27/10 11:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
Quote:

anyone have pics of where the front of the connector meets the torsion bar crossmember? i guess the previous owner of my car made new fuel and brake lines and didn't route them as the factory did. oh well, more work for me........ yay




On my brother's 66 charger, the frame connector overlaps the hole in the torsion bar crossmember that the fuel line originally went through. You can either drill a new hole to the side or reroute some other way.

Re: Subframe question [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #651719
03/27/10 11:39 PM
03/27/10 11:39 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,961
WI
Dcuda69 Offline
master
Dcuda69  Offline
master

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,961
WI
I did mine out of 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" box. I notched it to slide over the rear frame rail about 10" and welded it to a plate on the T-bar cross member. It doesn't go thru the floor(which would be better) but still made a HUGE difference in the way my car rides,drives and handles!! Cost about $40.00 and took about 2 hrs to fab up!......and I am NO fabricator!!

Oh yea almost forgot...this is a 69 B'cuda..but I'm sure a b-body could be done the same way!

Re: Subframe question [Re: 1968RR] #651720
03/28/10 09:51 AM
03/28/10 09:51 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 212
Mid Michigan
C
Coronet-R/T-Rag Offline
enthusiast
Coronet-R/T-Rag  Offline
enthusiast
C

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 212
Mid Michigan
Did mine yesterday. I used 3x2x1/8 boxed steel. Turned in on it's side so it was 2" tall and 3" wide. But welded the connectors to 3" x 6" plate and welded that to the torsion bar crossmember. Notched the plates for brake and fuel lines. Welded a 3" x 6" plate to both sides of the rear frame rail and slid the 3x2 box right over it. Welded that to the plates. Had to drill the drivers side connector for the e brake cable. very strong. I've never tried bolt in connectors. Don't see how they would be as strong.

Re: Subframe question [Re: 1968RR] #651721
03/28/10 10:19 AM
03/28/10 10:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
Too Many Posts
Challenger 1  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
These are old DC connectors. Didn't have to cut or weld to the floor pans. Nothing changed as far as fuel and parking brake lines.

Maybe not the best way, but it made a big difference in car feel and it was a quick painless installation.

Re: Subframe question [Re: Challenger 1] #651722
03/28/10 10:30 AM
03/28/10 10:30 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 162
MA.
P
plymguy Offline
member
plymguy  Offline
member
P

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 162
MA.
Nice job. So if you just weld the connectors to the front and rear frames and not the floor, there is still noticeable improvement? I have a '67 Fury III convertible so I would have to fabricate my own connectors.
John

Re: Subframe question [Re: plymguy] #651723
03/28/10 11:46 AM
03/28/10 11:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
Too Many Posts
Challenger 1  Offline
Too Many Posts

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Thanks,

Even if you just weld front and back, it'll be noticable. Worth doing, IMO.







Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1