Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
#64110
05/26/08 06:07 PM
05/26/08 06:07 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,019
Eau Claire, WI
ResQ911
OP
super gas
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OP
super gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,019
Eau Claire, WI
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I am putting relays in my Challenger to help brighten up my headlights. I would also like to set up the wiring so that my low beams stay on when my high beams turn on. (Also wonder if Hi/Low beams will overheat if both filaments are burning at same time) Could someone show me how this could be done?? I thought maybe split trigger power going into high beam relay and have it also go into low beam relay as well to turn on lows when I tap floor switch? Will this work BEST? Is there a better/safer way to do it? This is the diagram I am following: 
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: FuryUs]
#64112
05/26/08 06:19 PM
05/26/08 06:19 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 824
NH
72challorange
He's Game
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He's Game
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Posts: 824
NH
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How about adding a second relay for the low beams triggered by the HB's? It shouldn't backfeed at all from the LB actuation. That will be one Hot bulb with both filaments burning. It should be pretty bright after adding the relays anyways. Ijust did this on mine and they are much brighter than before. Tom  By tdavist, shot with DSC-P72 at 2008-03-22
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: Steve340]
#64114
05/27/08 12:26 AM
05/27/08 12:26 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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I think you'll find that you won't always want them that way. If you agree, just put a SPST (three terminal) switch, unhook the "low out" lead from the dimmer, and hook that wire to the center. Hook one outside term. of the new switch back to the "low out" term. on the dimmer, and the other outside term. of the switch, tee into the yelow "power in" term.
If you want to wire this up "all the time" just remove the "low out" wire from the dimmer, and tee into the "power in" (yellow wire.) Simple.
Nope. Don't need any diodes
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
#64115
05/27/08 06:18 AM
05/27/08 06:18 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,558
Montana
FuryUs
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master
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Posts: 4,558
Montana
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Quote:
I think you'll find that you won't always want them that way. If you agree, just put a SPST (three terminal) switch, unhook the "low out" lead from the dimmer, and hook that wire to the center. Hook one outside term. of the new switch back to the "low out" term. on the dimmer, and the other outside term. of the switch, tee into the yelow "power in" term.
If you want to wire this up "all the time" just remove the "low out" wire from the dimmer, and tee into the "power in" (yellow wire.) Simple.
Nope. Don't need any diodes
In the first paragraph, you're basically just using a switch to function as a diode and adding complexity. More options that way (do I want my low beams on with my highs today...?)
In the second paragraph, are you talking about having the low beams on all the time--even when the switch is in the off position? The power in is hot all the time--the lights would never turn off.
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: ResQ911]
#64116
05/27/08 10:33 AM
05/27/08 10:33 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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you don't need anything else that showed on diagrams... PERIOD.
forgett about keep lows working for a while you are on highs... will raise consumption unnecesarilly.
No diodes at all and you are hooking to alt... GREAT... hook to batt is a mistake since will make lot of power running through ammeter unnecesarilly and getting a wrong reading there. Of course as far you have a propper alt to feed all teh car needs, begining for charging at iddle
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: NachoRT74]
#64117
05/27/08 10:38 AM
05/27/08 10:38 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Valencia, España
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in a note appart, to save from dust, grease and everything on engine bay enviroment, I installed relays hidden on kick panel, and didn't cut any wire. check the last diagram here ( and if you want read the rest to want a nice wiring and alt upgrade ): web page
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: FuryUs]
#64118
05/27/08 11:10 AM
05/27/08 11:10 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
I think you'll find that you won't always want them that way. If you agree, just put a SPST (three terminal) switch, unhook the "low out" lead from the dimmer, and hook that wire to the center. Hook one outside term. of the new switch back to the "low out" term. on the dimmer, and the other outside term. of the switch, tee into the yelow "power in" term.
If you want to wire this up "all the time" just remove the "low out" wire from the dimmer, and tee into the "power in" (yellow wire.) Simple.
Nope. Don't need any diodes
In the first paragraph, you're basically just using a switch to function as a diode and adding complexity. More options that way (do I want my low beams on with my highs today...?)
In the second paragraph, are you talking about having the low beams on all the time--even when the switch is in the off position? The power in is hot all the time--the lights would never turn off.
No, I'm not using a switch to function as a diode, I'm using a switch--to function as a switch!!
And NO, the lights won't stay on. The "power in" feed is NOT hot all the time---it is switched on/off---by the headlight switch!!!
The reason that I mentioned the switch, and the choice, is because--guess what--I tried this about 30 years ago. I used to run 4537's (aircraft landing lights, Google them up) I got the "bright" idea to run all the bulb filaments on bright. The problem with doing so is that it creates a sort of "local glare" when what you are really looking for is a focused beam out away from the car on high.
Nacho is actually correct. To get the ammeter reading "true"--if you are still using one--you need to hook accessories to the alternator side of the ammeter/firewall connector.
However, your idea of using relays and upgraded wire IS a good one--the stock wiring is pretty marginal.
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: ResQ911]
#64119
05/27/08 01:00 PM
05/27/08 01:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
Sinitro
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
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So Cal
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When wiring relays, why not use the floor Hi/Low dimmer switch to toggle the 2 relays. 12V Control lead comes out of the Master headlite switch for ON/OFF operation. Then once the headlite switch is ON then the floor High/Low switch will toggle the respective relays. No additional switches or cutting is required, also I would suggest that you consider to mount the relays under the battery tray as to keep the headlite wires as short as possible. Regarding the actual heavier wire for the headlites, suggest you use # 8AWG. Be sure to solder the appropriate terminals and use shrink tubing. Just my $0.02.. 
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: NachoRT74]
#64122
05/27/08 03:04 PM
05/27/08 03:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
Sinitro
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master
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So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
When wiring relays, why not use the floor Hi/Low dimmer switch to toggle the 2 relays.
that's what we are making and what is ilustrated
The illustration says "Pull to Select".. 
Whereas the OE Dimmer Switch is a push switch on the floor...
Just my $0.02..
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: Sinitro]
#64123
05/27/08 04:22 PM
05/27/08 04:22 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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is an UNIVERSAL diagram, not specific for Floor dimmer switches like oldies cars... Most modern cars have a column push/pull lever switch to activate high beams. That is what is based the diagram 
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
#64124
05/27/08 05:30 PM
05/27/08 05:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,558
Montana
FuryUs
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,558
Montana
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I think you'll find that you won't always want them that way. If you agree, just put a SPST (three terminal) switch, unhook the "low out" lead from the dimmer, and hook that wire to the center. Hook one outside term. of the new switch back to the "low out" term. on the dimmer, and the other outside term. of the switch, tee into the yelow "power in" term.
If you want to wire this up "all the time" just remove the "low out" wire from the dimmer, and tee into the "power in" (yellow wire.) Simple.
Nope. Don't need any diodes
In the first paragraph, you're basically just using a switch to function as a diode and adding complexity. More options that way (do I want my low beams on with my highs today...?)
In the second paragraph, are you talking about having the low beams on all the time--even when the switch is in the off position? The power in is hot all the time--the lights would never turn off.
No, I'm not using a switch to function as a diode, I'm using a switch--to function as a switch!!
And NO, the lights won't stay on. The "power in" feed is NOT hot all the time---it is switched on/off---by the headlight switch!!!
The reason that I mentioned the switch, and the choice, is because--guess what--I tried this about 30 years ago. I used to run 4537's (aircraft landing lights, Google them up) I got the "bright" idea to run all the bulb filaments on bright. The problem with doing so is that it creates a sort of "local glare" when what you are really looking for is a focused beam out away from the car on high.
Nacho is actually correct. To get the ammeter reading "true"--if you are still using one--you need to hook accessories to the alternator side of the ammeter/firewall connector.
However, your idea of using relays and upgraded wire IS a good one--the stock wiring is pretty marginal.
OK, let me rephrase; you're using the switch to do the same thing I was suggesting you use a diode for--to segregate the low and high beams.
And you're right on the power input--I saw the 'pull for high/low' part and assumed it was an all-in one switch and beam selector like on some modern vehicles.
As for the ammeter, I thought one of the reasons (besides the obvious brighter lights) to add relays is to keep current down--I'm not sure why you'd want to continue running that through the bulkhead connectors and ammeter.
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Re: Electrical Wiring Question...........Help Needed
[Re: FuryUs]
#64125
05/28/08 12:45 AM
05/28/08 12:45 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,095
Valencia, España
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Quote:
As for the ammeter, I thought one of the reasons (besides the obvious brighter lights) to add relays is to keep current down--I'm not sure why you'd want to continue running that through the bulkhead connectors and ammeter.
Dunno up there, but down here in Venezuela reason for relays is the HALOGEN Lamps upgrade what has been the most common upgrade since EVER. Halogen consumption isn't able to be driven by stock switches without burn. Use relays with incandescent regular bulbs is just to get better lights cause the old and damaged wiring. IN My opinion, if that's the case I would repair wiring and terminals befoire add relays, and wouldn't hide the real cause of the "fail" with relays, because the weak points will keep around. Sooner or later, relay will fail to due the original simpthom
Why keep ammeter working ? because is the most accurate and real reading of charging conditions, Then efficient. Voltimeter works but never like an ammeter. Both together is the ebst of course.
The only detail is that for the actual loads demands, is true stock ammeter is weak, but with a healthy and balanced system, REALLY won't need more ( check the link I posted and will know why )
without ammeter, all power is running ANYWAY in the same proportions throught ignition switch ( except for the lights ). Only moment where ALL THE POWER is running throught ammeter is when you got a heavy discharge and alt is charging back the alt on a long period of time with high charger power. For a while that doesn happen a short on ignition switch is the same dangerous than a short on ammeter or related wires
Last edited by NachoRT74; 05/28/08 12:52 AM.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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