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Basic engine break in questions... #627566
03/01/10 12:49 AM
03/01/10 12:49 AM
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Colorado
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dssaa Online content OP
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Colorado
Getting ready to reassemble the 440. Once I have it all back together and back in the car...what are the best tips to avoid damaging the motor. My buddy uses break in oil, runs it for a bit, then drains it. I know I will need to prime the oil pump, and I am being generous with the assembly lube on the cam and lifters. What are your secrets to success?
Dave in Colorado...

Re: Basic engine break in questions... [Re: dssaa] #627567
03/01/10 01:11 AM
03/01/10 01:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
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Follow your cam manufacturers suggestions for camshaft break-in. This usually involved the first start-up with you bringing it up to 2500-3000rpm and varying it within that range by a couple hundred rpm every minute. Do that for 20-30 minutes. Then change oil and take it out for a rip. Couple half-throttle runs then start putting the pedal to the floor for some nice WOT runs through the rpm range. Helps the rings break in properly.

Re: Basic engine break in questions... [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #627568
03/01/10 01:14 AM
03/01/10 01:14 AM
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Colorado
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dssaa Online content OP
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I especially like the WOT part...thanks..thats kind of what I thought...but do you recommend special break in oil, or just regular 10w30?

Re: Basic engine break in questions... [Re: dssaa] #627569
03/01/10 01:22 AM
03/01/10 01:22 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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during mockup make sure the lifters have enough clearance to rotate by cleaning the lifters/bores w brake clean then lubing them lightly with WD40 & raise each lifter off of its lobe w your finger and let it go and it should fall back onto its lobe under it's own weight with a resounding "thunk". If not hone them. thermostat out, front end of car jacked way up (helps w air pockets). If solid lifters "cold" adj them w the hand turning procedure then take off the rocker assy's and lube the cam/lifter bottoms (valve adjustment procedure will wipe too much of the black goop off of them)Might be a bit picky on some of this but after thousands of dollars and your valuable time and great expectations this is not the time to cut ANY corners . HELPERS. one to run the light/turn the dist, one to check underneath for leaks, one on top to check for (fuel mainly) leaks, one to add tranny fluid when it fires, set throttle screw so it wont go below 2500, you in the drivers seat to insure that and shout orders and watch the gauges. read "break in secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (takes 5 minutes), set timing marks at 10BTDC #1 w reluctor dead on the magnet which will fire it a bit later than 10. fill the carb bowls ahead of time, large shop fan in front of radiator, might raise rear wheel slightly off the ground & load the eng in gear (or drive). Preoil with the drill & get both head passages also


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Re: Basic engine break in questions... [Re: dssaa] #627570
03/01/10 01:32 AM
03/01/10 01:32 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
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Manitoba, Canada
Quote:

I especially like the WOT part...thanks..thats kind of what I thought...but do you recommend special break in oil, or just regular 10w30?




I used shell rotella T and the 'old' version of the GM EOS additiave that isn't available in the US anymore. But especially during break in you want an oil with a higher zinc content. A lot of guy swear by brad penn oil.

Re: Basic engine break in questions... [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #627571
03/01/10 11:23 AM
03/01/10 11:23 AM
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Aurora Colorado
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BELVEDERE67 Offline
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I used Rotella 10-40 as well. Definately check on the lifter rotation. If you can find GM EOS that is what alot have used. You may be able to find a small bottle of STP red bottle. It's used for lawnmowers etc. If heard that it has high zinc content.







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