Re: Wire guage
[Re: RapidRobert]
#618625
02/20/10 07:32 PM
02/20/10 07:32 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
|
Thanks for the replies. Robert, the main feed hasn't gone out. I'm off work on an injury, so I have time to kill. I was gonna go over the wire harness and fix any loose connections, and replace the main feed, since it looks shady to me. I plan on replacing that wire, along with the one for the ammeter (which I'm not sure I will use), and clean and/or replace any terminals that need it. The only addition I was gonna have was a graphic equalizer/amp, which is very small. The car will have no A/C, no power brakes, nor power steering. Manual windows and locks, as well. It's a 4-speed, too. Any tips or suggestions???
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: 70duster340]
#618627
02/20/10 08:40 PM
02/20/10 08:40 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
I swore it was in the archives but I could not find it either (& I have seen it there ). iirc on the bulkhead the 2 main in/out wires, the one "in" from the fusible link and the "out" wire to the alt you just run another one (two actually)wires (in effect)around the bulkhead to get by the problem of the great amt of current going thru the inadequate bulkhead connectors at those 2 points. If you have 2 unused connectors in the bulkhead just drill them out & run 2 wires thru there for the 2 parallel circuits. If not then drill 2 small holes in the firewall. www.madelectrical.com will have addt'l info for you. If I think of anything else I will holler.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: RapidRobert]
#618628
02/20/10 10:37 PM
02/20/10 10:37 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
|
Thanks, Robert. I did a search on Moparts, and did find some posts on the parallel bulkhead bypass. From what I can see, the M.A.D. way does away with the ammeter, and natcho's way keeps the ammeter in use. So, any idea which way is better? I was planning on using the stock gauges, which are in a rallye dash that came with the car, not installed. I have tested the gauges, and they all seem to function.
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: 70duster340]
#618629
02/20/10 10:49 PM
02/20/10 10:49 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
I'm old school I like the ammeter (& an added voltmeter) so I'm with Nacho's bulkhead bypass along with cleaning/checking EVERY connection (time consuming though) and since I never have a high flow (charging or discharging) I have no issues. At my age I dont even listen to the stock radio anymore . I'd rather listen to the eng (& my thoughts). If I had alot of draw inside the dash like you I'd run the batt positive over to the alt w an 8ga wire w a 12 ga fusible link which would alleviate the bulkhead shortcomings but would disable the ammeter
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: RapidRobert]
#618632
02/21/10 04:50 PM
02/21/10 04:50 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
|
Thanks, Robert. I don't really like the notion of running the wire through the bulkhead, just for the reason that it would make it a pain to get the bulkhead connector apart if needed. The idea of running the wires through the firewall using a grommet seems much more workable, since unplugging the bulkhead then would not be a problem. I take it that natcho's way keeps the ammeter working? I was orginally going to use aftermarket gauges, but with a rallye dash, having only the fuel gauge working (well, and the speedometer, too) would seem such a waste. Since the sending units for the water temp and oil pressure are still available, I think I might go that route. I did consider an aftermarket dash (or maybe designing one myself), but that's in the future. Anyway, can anybody advise if the installation of the Painless fuse block would preclude me from doing this upgrade? Should I consult with natcho first? Thanks again!!!
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: RapidRobert]
#618637
02/22/10 10:37 PM
02/22/10 10:37 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
|
OK, let me try to explain the situation. When I wired in the new fuse block, according to the instructions, the main feed wire, instead of routing it to the ammeter, it was routed to the fuse block. So, you are saying that I need to splice in the ammeter between the bulkhead and the fuse block? If so, that's not really a problem. However, what about the wiring upgrade where I run the 2 wires through the firewall? Can that still be done, and if so, how?
Thanks for your help, btw!!!
Oh yes, the Painless items are quality material, but there are so many different companies out there now that competition is tight! Even Summit is offering a universal harness now.
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: 70duster340]
#618638
02/22/10 10:59 PM
02/22/10 10:59 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
Quote:
So, you are saying that I need to splice in the ammeter between the bulkhead and the fuse block? However, what about the wiring upgrade where I run the 2 wires through the firewall? Can that still be done, and if so, how? Thanks for your help, btw!!!.
(1) yes (2)Yes, visualize the 1 parallel wire on the fusible link side coming around to the inside of the dash (backside of the bulkhead) where it T's back in, several inches rearward from that T splice is where you would cut the wire to add the ammeter leads (3) you're quite welcome on the help, my fellow (Moparts) members here save my bacon regularly.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: 70duster340]
#618640
02/22/10 11:56 PM
02/22/10 11:56 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
the long vertical line is the firewall, (1) is the starter relay, (2) & (3) are the black bulkhead halves, (4) is Nacho's bypass. (5) runs up to the stock ammeter in the dash but to add a different ammeter you would cut the line and run the two cut ends (5) & (6) to your new ammeter (7), Downstream from the ammeter goes to a T just like OE then it splits off and powers the headlight switch (8)(which is hot all the time), another split to the ign sw (9) which is hot all the time and splits again to the fuse block (stock or Painless)(10)(which is hot all the time) which protects everything downstream from it such as brake lights hazard flashers, horn, radio, dome light, accessories
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Wire guage
[Re: RapidRobert]
#618641
02/23/10 12:14 AM
02/23/10 12:14 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
70duster340
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,443
|
OK, I think I got it now. However, if your drawing is good, I wired the fuse block incorrectly. I did it according to the directions, though. But, I guess all I need to do is wire the ammeter between the bulkhead and the fuseblock to make the ammeter work?
Also, can you advise which wire powers the gauges? This is for a rallye dash, btw. The fuse block has a terminal for powering the gauges, and I am considering using it. I have looked for a rallye dash wiring diagram, but haven't found one as of yet.
|
|
|
|
|