They have some nice colors! I was thinking of painting my 68 road runner their Mocha Frost Pearl metallic .

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-UP311/?rtype=10

I have never used the stuff but unless your very experienced I would stay away. A metallic single stage paint (acrylic urethane) is a very difficult paint to shoot. You have to try to get the metallic even and get shine at the same time. And forget about buffing it. I'd go to your local auto paint jobber and see what they have to offer.

I heard a lot of good things about Southern Polyurethanes, they have many distributors.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Check out this article-
http://popularhotrodding.automotive.com/...ints/index.html

with Mopargnome, what you shoot is pretty much the final look with single stage metallics. Usually you put on your 2 or 3 medium/heavy coats, and then mist a light coat quickly across your original pattern, to get rid of any stripes in the metallic. If you wait too long it dulls it, if you do it too fast it runs. It has its uses however, I edge panels with it, and paint the car in base/clear coat. Or just pick a solid color, then you can do the whole car no problem. The best thing about solid colors and no experience is that you can fix mistakes (i.e. runs, sags, dirt, etc.) a lot easier!

Thanks for the backup. I have been painting cars for 15 years and used to do alot of single stage metallics. I dont anymore. Single stage paint has its place, I just did a 65 Coronet in Omaha orange single stage. For a metallic job, base/clear is the only way to go.

No problemo. I think single stage looks period correct, if done right........I'm really not a fan of mirror perfect paint jobs..........after 25 years of it I HATE buffing! I have an old Pontiac Astre I plan to shoot with single stage. It's a small car, so keeping the metallic from striping shouldn't be too difficult.......and it should look like orange peely laquer when I'm done, and that's just fine with me!

My neigbor just shot his AMX with single stage urethane(Limco)metallic and wet cut and buffed it and it turned out great.

I HATE buffing!

Lol, I feel your pain!

For a low cost, high quality paint system...
try Matrix

http://www.matrixsystem.com/

I have to chime in here and tell you we just tried the Summit paint in the lime green color on a 65 b body and I was very happy with the paint, particularly for the price paid. I would agree on the metallic concerns expressed before me; sometimes I've been able to add a bunch of reducer to the final coat and run around the car spraying to get it to level out the metallic. It's something of a crap shoot. If it doesn't work it's a mess to fix.

One thing else to mention on the summit single stage I used is it color sanded well. Buffing isn't that big a job to me.

If you are getting stripes or blotchiness(modeling),then either your fan pattern/material adjustment is incorrect or you are not putting down even overlapping passes with the gun.Also being a metallic,no smaller than a 1.3mm and no larger than a 1.4mm tip is recommended for eveness. Your material adjustment will be the main factor other than even passes if you have those tip sizes. Reducer will play a roll as well. A slower reducer will give it more time to level out. A faster one will dry faster and give the metallic less time to flow out evenly. Buffing should take 1/2 the time of sanding if you finish off with 2000-2500 grit. Use 3M Syntheticut,then blue foam pad glaze/polish on a blue foam pad(zero swirls).You almost wont have to wax it if you do it evenly enough. This is how we do black Beamers'and Lexus'.

Adding reducer DOES help on or after your final coat,overall and when repairing/blending.

I am in no way a professional painter,but all I have ever used is single stage paints.I have painted maybe 5 or 6 cars with metallic and have never had a problem with striping.
I shot my wife's Intrepid last summer with Summit's Dark Jade metallic,and like the paint.As I said,I'm not a pro,and I had a few problems because I finally went to an HVLP gun,but nothing that had to do with the actual paint.
My opinion is,if you are on a tight budget,use it.
If you have problems with it,it is cheap enough to buy more and "fix" your paint job.I would rather get the practice with less expensive materials,that's why I tried it on a daily driver with my new gun,before I do something I want to really look nice.

I assumed HVLP. That is the basic it seems nowadays.

Good info here. I will stay away from metallic. More i look at it ,its too much metallic.

With their single stage, you can wet sand and buff it? I see they sell clear, could you clear coat it also?

Do yourself a favor and go with a basecoat/clearcoat instead of a single stage. B/C is MUCH more forgiving and and easy to spray. With a good thick coat of high solids clear you can sand and buff out almost any imperfection and it will come out looking like you paid 10 grand for the paint job
I also second the motion of using SPI - Southern Polyurethanes. They have absolutely outstanding products for a great price. You will not find better people to deal with!