Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: 6superbee9]
#584300
01/16/10 03:50 PM
01/16/10 03:50 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,324 St. Louis, Mo
318 Stroker
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Yes, I am desperate. Driving me crazy. I had a hodge-podge of manifold bolts in there, and just recently purchased the correct set of fasteners, with the combination of sleeve-bolts, studs w/nuts, bolts, and cupped washers, and I'm still having the problem.
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: dOoC]
#584302
01/16/10 03:53 PM
01/16/10 03:53 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,324 St. Louis, Mo
318 Stroker
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Quote:
I would NOT try lock-tite ... if the bolts/studs ever have to be removed ... you could mess-up the head. I would try some black or gold RTV and let it set-up well before using.
That's kinda what I was thinking, and that's why I asked before doing it. On the first set of fasteners I had lock washers, and that didn't work either.
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: 318 Stroker]
#584305
01/16/10 11:35 PM
01/16/10 11:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 892 USA
krw71ragtop
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Nov 2004
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USA
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Quote:
I have an Eddy headed 318 with the 340 Hi-po exhaust manifolds. The bolts loosen every time I drive it. Is it Ok to use Lock-Tite for this application? That's the only solution I can think of to solve the problem.
I use Permatex anti-seize lubricant #133K on my aluminum heads. You might also want to check your exhaust hangers and make sure the exhaust system isn't flopping around.
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: krw71ragtop]
#584306
01/16/10 11:59 PM
01/16/10 11:59 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,324 St. Louis, Mo
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Quote:
Quote:
I have an Eddy headed 318 with the 340 Hi-po exhaust manifolds. The bolts loosen every time I drive it. Is it Ok to use Lock-Tite for this application? That's the only solution I can think of to solve the problem.
I use Permatex anti-seize lubricant #133K on my aluminum heads. You might also want to check your exhaust hangers and make sure the exhaust system isn't flopping around.
I have a tti system and everything is tight. I idled the car for 15 minutes the last two nights, to warm it up, and I had some looseness to the fasteners. As the previous poster, "donbarnes" said, I think it has something to do with the different expansion rates. I can't think of any other solution besides using anti-seize.
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: 318 Stroker]
#584308
01/17/10 12:27 AM
01/17/10 12:27 AM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 102 Virginia
MACDiesel
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You should MOST DEFINATELY be using anti-sieze on the threads. It doesn't make your spark plugs back out so it won't make your fasteners back out. (you are using it on your plugs right?) Anti-sieze is way cheaper than having to pull your heads and have them tapped for helicoils and replacing the head gaskets. Use it any time you use a steel fastener on an aluminum part.
Split type lock washers should stop the loosening. Studs are awesome because they go from course thread to fine thread which has better torque retention and vibration resistence. If you want the ultimate in torque retention you could always get bolts drilled for safety wire like the NASCAR and other racing guys do. If you do it right, the bolts CAN NOT MOVE. If your scared of lockwire then you can try Stage 8's locking bolts. They're pricey but they can't back out unless you disassemble them.
You have options. I like the mechanically locking hardware around high heat. Metal won't melt, plastic and chemicals will.
Try some new Grade 8 bolts and split lock washers first. That shouldn't cost more than $10.
-1967 Belvedere II 440/4speed
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: MACDiesel]
#584309
01/17/10 12:42 AM
01/17/10 12:42 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,324 St. Louis, Mo
318 Stroker
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Thanks for the advise. Yes, I am using anti-seize on the spark plugs.
I just spent good money buying the correct factory-style fastener kit for the hi-po manifolds. As I mentioned, it is a combination of sleeve-bolts, studs w/nuts, and bolts. I'm thinking of giving the anti-seize a try first, and if that doesn't work, anti-seize and lock-washers. I was using lock washers previously, and still had problems.
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: 318 Stroker]
#584310
01/17/10 01:41 AM
01/17/10 01:41 AM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 102 Virginia
MACDiesel
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The guy that mentioned different expansion rates nailed it. A lot of guys helicoil all the threaded holes right from the get go. You could try selling that original kit and get those Stage 8's. They have a e-clip groove cut into the wrench flats and locking tangs that slip over the bolt heads. The locking tangs have a 12 point hole so they can be positioned properly on the bolt head. Then you lock it in place with the e-clip. If the bolt loosens the tang will hit the manifold and stop the bolt from turning. So it can't loosen more than 1/12 turn. Pretty darned fail safe. http://www.stage8.com/products_lhb.htmlSafety wire works too.
-1967 Belvedere II 440/4speed
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: 70redbee]
#584313
01/17/10 09:07 AM
01/17/10 09:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079
Niles , Ohio
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I use studs in my aluminum heads except for 1 or 2 that wont fit with headers.I use antisieze on them.2 years of street driving and they never come loose.I use the larger thick flat washers on mine also.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Help--Exhaust Manifold bolts won't stay tight
[Re: boydsdodge]
#584315
01/18/10 11:11 AM
01/18/10 11:11 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,324 St. Louis, Mo
318 Stroker
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Quote:
How did you get them to fit? you must have done a ton of grinding to the heads. I have a pair of Edelbrock closed chambers (04 vintage I think) and wanted to install my H/P manifolds, but no go unless I did a whole bunch of grinding. Went with TTIs that slipped in easier then iron. Never a leak or losen up.
Yep, the driver side required grinding on the head. I had the motor built by a professional Mopar engine builder, and when I picked up the motor, I noticed the ground head.
Edelbrock claims that the heads are bolt-on, but you open up a whole can of worms when you use them. The heads are longer than stock, so you have to re-engineer the alternator bracket, as well as the above mentioned manifold problem.
The heads are great, performance-wise, but I'm almost wishing that I had used stock iron heads instead.
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