I hollowed out the speedometer case and I pressed in the 5" Moroso tach. Now the Tach will bolt into any Cutlass

Wow defbob, there's a ton of room in that engine bay!

Should be a fun ride!

Just for giggles, have you looked at bigger exhaust turbine housings? If boost comes on too fast, that's the way to calm it down, and decrease backpressure at the same time.

Yeah, you could replace the turbine wheel (or have it clipped), but there's more chance of hosing stuff up when monkeying with the CHRA parts.

As far as the compressor sides being too small... hard to say. I'd expect a '50' to be a little small for moving a lot of air on a half of a big block, but it might be reasonable. BTW, are these the T4 "E" or "B" series compressors? I believe that the maps are noticeably different.

It might be interesting to plumb in an intake air temp sensor in the carb hat. Find out exactly what that temp is, and put the guessing to rest. If you compare it to the ambient air temp at the intake of the turbo (may be pretty warm if picking up engine compartment air), you can calculate the compressor efficiency.

Mouser has a nice little thermistor available that reads up to about 300 deg. F... It's a whopping 77 cents per piece. Perfect for high rollers like me! Go to mouser.com and do a search for

771-KTY81221112

(I tried to do a url link to the page, but something about the syntax kept fouling up the ubbcode... you'll have to get old school on it and type... )

look at the temp vs. resistance chart on p. 4:

[url= http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/KTY81_SER.pdf ]data sheet[/url]

Pretty easy to read 'in situ' if you wire an ohmmeter to it and have someone monitor it while you drive. If you know that (making up the value here) say 1400 ohms = the max temp that you consider safe for air intake, you can wire up the part to a meter and have a 'quick and dirty' way of finding out if you're in the ballpark for air intake temps.

Remember, the boost will stress things a bit, but it's the temps that REALLY cause problems. That's why intercooled cars can get away with so much boost (thank you, Cap. Obvious!)...

If you want to get all cool, you could use a voltage regulator IC that's available from radio shack (or mouser) and make a nicely regulated +5V power supply, and read the voltage drop across the thermistor with a gage; that's basically how any temp sending unit works; you'd have to do some calibrating, but could probably have a gage that reads out reliably.

Hell, you might even put a coolant temp sending unit in the hat, and wire a gage to it (have to ground the sending unit?).

Well, it's past bedtime; time to stop making nonsense.

But that's a REALLY cool project. Good luck.

-Bill

Just stick a coolant temperature sending unit in the air stream and hook up a cheapie temperature gauge. Cheap and easy.

I use T04B compressor housings with 60-1 wheels. They're a perfect fit for a street oriented 440.

I have T3/t4E's 50trim, .63 turbine

I had a pair of Turbonetics T3 Stage III wheels in Stage III .48 housings. The engine stalled at 4800 rpm. The turbines quit flowing and the engine would not pull.
The Stage III .63 housings perked it up a wee bit but still limited top end power.
Stepping up to Stage III .96 housings fixed the problem.
The turbos respond nicely for a street car. Boost starts rolling in around 2500 RPM and pulls nicely through 6000 rpm.
I have run them as high as 17 psi with an alky injector. They're not going to be very efficient much higher than that.

I'll be shifting no higher than 5000rpm so hopefully mine will support that. If not, then I will shift where the power seems to fall off. I do have 2.56 gear so short shifting shouldn't affect it too much

Now that I have a tach, I took my car out for another test drive. The car does reach 8lbs and when the wastegates open it gets loud lol. It pulls up to just under 5k. I think that has alot to do with the stock sized cam though.

It also spun both tires through 3rd gear. This, despite being a single legger. Tom and I went back to look at the marks and sure enough, two sets of marks. And you can see each shift point lol

i did this a few yrs ago.the problem was the sheriff was behind me.[no merror] he let me go.

I still need to do the alignment on my car and it is ready. I reinstalled my rear window, fixed my rear axle (overpowered the stock 12bolt), installed the 3" wheel studs, mounted the slicks, wired up the neutral safety switch, replaced rear tranny seal, installed rear seat , lengthened the wastegate dumps after burning a wire , and I think that's about it.

Hi thare Bob.

How do you have that boost refrenced mechanical fuel pump hooked up, what brand is it?

I have a 68 Belvedere with a 383 thats just screeming budget twin turbos

its an edelbrock. it had two vents, so I plugged one and pressed a tube in the other. You run a line from the output of the turbo to the vent tube on the carb.

in the picture, you see the brass fitting in the turbo. From that to the vent in the pump.

Hey Bob!!!

you get that thing on the track yet?

or run it down the road a few times?

How much boost you gettin out of it?

Do you think the fuel pump trick would work with 14-17 pounds of boost?

I've been down the road a few times. Pulls nicely. it makes 8lbs right now. The fuel pump trick might work with 15lbs. I have 16lb waste gates I will try it with, but only when I get a water injection setup.

I just got my Cutlass back from Markow Race Cars where I had him install an 8.50et cage.