Wow defbob, there's a ton of room in that engine bay!
Should be a fun ride!
Just for giggles, have you looked at bigger exhaust turbine housings? If boost comes on too fast, that's the way to calm it down, and decrease backpressure at the same time.
Yeah, you could replace the turbine wheel (or have it clipped), but there's more chance of hosing stuff up when monkeying with the CHRA parts.
As far as the compressor sides being too small... hard to say. I'd expect a '50' to be a little small for moving a lot of air on a half of a big block, but it might be reasonable. BTW, are these the T4 "E" or "B" series compressors? I believe that the maps are noticeably different.
It might be interesting to plumb in an intake air temp sensor in the carb hat. Find out exactly what that temp is, and put the guessing to rest. If you compare it to the ambient air temp at the intake of the turbo (may be pretty warm if picking up engine compartment air), you can calculate the compressor efficiency.
Mouser has a nice little thermistor available that reads up to about 300 deg. F... It's a whopping 77 cents per piece. Perfect for high rollers like me! Go to mouser.com and do a search for
771-KTY81221112
(I tried to do a url link to the page, but something about the syntax kept fouling up the ubbcode... you'll have to get old school on it and type...
)
look at the temp vs. resistance chart on p. 4:
[url=
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/KTY81_SER.pdf ]data sheet[/url]
Pretty easy to read 'in situ' if you wire an ohmmeter to it and have someone monitor it while you drive. If you know that (making up the value here) say 1400 ohms = the max temp that you consider safe for air intake, you can wire up the part to a meter and have a 'quick and dirty' way of finding out if you're in the ballpark for air intake temps.
Remember, the boost will stress things a bit, but it's the temps that REALLY cause problems. That's why intercooled cars can get away with so much boost (thank you, Cap. Obvious!)...
If you want to get all cool, you could use a voltage regulator IC that's available from radio shack (or mouser) and make a nicely regulated +5V power supply, and read the voltage drop across the thermistor with a gage; that's basically how any temp sending unit works; you'd have to do some calibrating, but could probably have a gage that reads out reliably.
Hell, you might even put a coolant temp sending unit in the hat, and wire a gage to it (have to ground the sending unit?).
Well, it's past bedtime; time to stop making nonsense.
But that's a REALLY cool project. Good luck.
-Bill