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Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts #557436
12/19/09 12:49 AM
12/19/09 12:49 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 60
Sweet Home, Oregon
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friesza Offline OP
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Sweet Home, Oregon
Going to rebuild my 72 dart front end with 73 upper control arms and spindles because I am using the scarebird disk kit...anyway this car will be a driver and not a road racer....what I am looking for is good handling and a smooth driver....but just want to know if polygraphite is worth the hassle?

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: friesza] #557437
12/19/09 01:00 AM
12/19/09 01:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Going to rebuild my 72 dart front end with 73 upper control arms and spindles because I am using the scarebird disk kit...anyway this car will be a driver and not a road racer....what I am looking for is good handling and a smooth driver....but just want to know if polygraphite is worth the hassle?




Probably not.

If you have power steering, just run rubber Moog 7103 offset upper control arm bushings installed specifically to get 3-4 degrees of positive caster. The extra caster will not harm ride and will make the car more stable at highway speeds and take a little of the loose feel of the power steering away.

Poly sway bar end link bushings can add a little bit to the the roll resistance of the car.

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: autoxcuda] #557438
12/19/09 01:05 AM
12/19/09 01:05 AM
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Posts: 60
Sweet Home, Oregon
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friesza Offline OP
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Sweet Home, Oregon
Thanks....thats what I was hoping for...make it alot easier....and yes I have power steering....

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: friesza] #557439
12/19/09 01:16 AM
12/19/09 01:16 AM
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Tustin, CA
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pishta Offline
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Tustin, CA
road car, rubber all the way. Poly sway bar ends OK but poly suspension bushings, you'll tire of them very quickly, either from the harsh ride or the squeaking.

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: friesza] #557440
12/19/09 01:18 AM
12/19/09 01:18 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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The poly lower control arm bushings are hit or miss, from my experiance. Most of the time people just press them in without a hydraulic press.

But others, myself, have had a tough time getting them to slide in. I think it's because the poly LCA bushing use the old LCA rubber bushing shells and there is some thickness variation per brands. And sometimes the shell inside the LCA can get out of round because of gashes from people chisling out old rubber bushing out of thier LCA.

Also the poly strut rod bushings are thicker than stock. And with poly LCA bushings the strut rod is what holds the poly LCA bushings against the K-frame. So shaving 3/16 off the poly strut bushings is helpful.

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: autoxcuda] #557441
12/19/09 09:31 AM
12/19/09 09:31 AM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 890
Clarksville, Tennessee
monoptn Offline
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Clarksville, Tennessee
Why are you changing upper control arm and spindle? I was under the impression the scarebird kit didn't require that?

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: monoptn] #557442
12/19/09 11:02 AM
12/19/09 11:02 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 60
Sweet Home, Oregon
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friesza Offline OP
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Quote:

Why are you changing upper control arm and spindle? I was under the impression the scarebird kit didn't require that?




Number 1 I want the bigger ball joint....and 2 isnt there a difference in the kit between a 9" brake and 10" brake on how big of rotor you can run....I know they make it for the 9 setup but thought it was better having the 10...anyone?

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: friesza] #557443
12/19/09 11:20 AM
12/19/09 11:20 AM
Joined: May 2005
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Texas
Texican Offline
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Texas
I was going to start a new thread about this today or tomorrow, regarding what happened to my new POLY suspension....but I'm happy (or sad) to share my thoughts with you now.

As a hobby, I restore several classics each year (old trucks & muscles, etc). I always tear down and rebuild the suspension by sand blasting the metal, paint or powder coat, then in with the rubber... I usually go with the OEM rubber, but I have done 2 POLY kits from PST; the first was put on my 71 Challenger 383 car (2 years ago), and it went in very smooth (but I sold it after a few months and never inspected it after putting a few miles on it.

The most recent POLY kit from PST was put on my 68 Corvette 427 4-speed (bad to the bone).
Again the kit went in as expected (pretty easy), but here's the horror Follow the timeline:

-Installed a complete front and rear POLY kit.
-Once the vette was back on the road, I drove it home (about 10 miles from my shop).
-It sat there about 2 weeks before I drove it to our local (retired) air force base (Perrin Field) where I raced it in our "pure stock drag race day". (It's about 15 miles from my house to the the air stirp - 30 mile round trip)
-Once I drove it home (it drove fine) It sat in my garage a few weeks until (yesterday) when I drove it to the alignment shop (5 miles) to get aligned. (This shop has a very good reputation for more than 20 years and I know the mechanic - nothing shady here....it's the kind of place where you can drop off your car and hand around and chat as long as you dont get in his way). He called me after 30 minutes ans said "my front suspension is shot and needs replaced"

Upon going back to his shop and seeing it for myself, it appears that in his own words, "He sees it all the time". He said this is nothing new, he sees the new POLY bushings get eat up after only a few hundred (sometimes) less miles.

It looks like the POLY material is good, and hasn't been eaten up by solvents, it's still looks good etc... but due to the hard metal sleeve in the middle that is rotating back and forth against the "very hard" poly material...it's eating away at the Poly and resulting in MAJOR slop in the suspension.

After less than 100 miles, I can vouch for the fact that it is completely chewed up and needs replaced.

What makes it worse is that he has seen it several times...POLY is too hard and when something has to go....The sleeve eats into the POLY material where the OEM Rubber was more forgiving.

I've never had to contact PST for a refund, but I'm going to document and photogaph my findings and see if hey will either trade my wore out parts for my money back or a new RUBBER kit.

I was only 2 weeks away from ordering another kit for my 70 Challenger....and I'll do business with PST again...but this time I think I'm going Rubber.

I'm sure others out there have had luck with the POLY, and I'll be calling the guy that sold my challenger to and see how his is holding up... buy I've seen this with my own eyes.

After a little research, I found this article...a must read: http://forums.motivemag.com/zerothread?id=4360601




Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: Texican] #557444
12/19/09 12:02 PM
12/19/09 12:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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jcc Offline
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Quote:


After a little research, I found this article...a must read: http://forums.motivemag.com/zerothread?id=4360601





Sorry I disagree, that link is a one sided crude mob rant, with little detail shared to back it up.


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: jcc] #557445
12/19/09 01:26 PM
12/19/09 01:26 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,577
Long Island, NY USA
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BergmanAutoCraft Offline
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Not sure what is going on there, but I have to say urethane usually lasts forever. Most of the time, the issues come from improper installation in some way. Using the proper assembly lube insures silent operation every time. Torquing suspension unloaded is a good way to tear up bushings, if they are designed to rotate.

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: Texican] #557446
12/19/09 01:41 PM
12/19/09 01:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,471
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

....

What makes it worse is that he has seen it several times...POLY is too hard and when something has to go....The sleeve eats into the POLY material where the OEM Rubber was more forgiving.

....




On your Corvette, what specific poly bushing went bad? LCA, UCA, rear trailing arm, lateral radius rod...?

If it's lubed properly and if the installed clearance are right, the poly should not self destruct that fast. In a poly bushing type part the poly really becomes a bearing.

Some poly applications use the old rubber bushings and shells.

Our high school auto shop teacher had a Circle Track street stock racecar. We managed to get Dick Guldstrand Engineering to sponsor us bushings and front end rebuild kit. This was just before Energy Suspension really came into the market with poly bushings pre installed in new matching shells.

Guldstrand used to have special poly inserts made that you would install into the old bushing shells. They were a total pain in the butt. Nothing fit right for us. We had to machine down every stupid bushing. A year later we asked for a second deal and then he carried all Energy Suspension bushing that came with shells. Guldstrand said he had lot of customer install complaints about the old poly inserts.

I can see features of the Energy poly bushings with shells that could potentially have interference issue that could lead to self destruction. The poly with shell bushings get installed into a customers suspension piece of unknown condition and original to Energy Suspension. That hole may be out of round from previous wear, gouged/worn by pervious install and removal, or just pressed in wrong. The poly shells are thin enough to change their dimension due to the hole being pressed into. Therefore changing the bearing fit between the poly and shell.

Just a theory of mine. Take it for what it is worth. I have observed different resistances in loose control arms side to side with poly. But I didn't go as far as taking everything apart and measuring to the .001" of an inch.

The UCA Energy bushing in my Dart convertible have been in there at least 10K miles from the previous owner whom I know. They are fine, but that doesn't mean it's as robust as design as the OE bushings.

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: friesza] #557447
12/19/09 02:01 PM
12/19/09 02:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,426
weymouth,mass.
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meepmeep70 Offline
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weymouth,mass.
my experience and thoughts are,poly squeaks and i hate squeaks,rubber was good enough for thirty years,i'll do rubber

Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: meepmeep70] #557448
12/19/09 10:08 PM
12/19/09 10:08 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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I've installed polygraphite bushing is at least 5 different cars over 20+ years with ZERO issues.

I've put somewhere around 100k+ miles on at least 2 of those cars with poly, again, zero issues.

FWIW.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: Poly Vs Rubber suspension parts [Re: Supercuda] #557449
12/19/09 10:12 PM
12/19/09 10:12 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 11,179
Atco NJ
DJVCuda Offline
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Atco NJ
around 13 years ago I installed poly everywhere on my car except the LCA

well I just replaced the entire front end and guess which bushings were bad? yup the rubber LCA's the other rubber parts were like new and I;ve driven 17,000 miles, and had no squeaks, no problems and it handles alot better then the rubber setup

this time I went all poly and have no squeaks and am very happy with the install and ride.







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