I guess this really hasn't been done/talked about enough, but if you are going to cut the floor up anyway for the Keisler unit... Tremec T-56 6 speeds out of GM f body cars can be had on E-bay for 600 bucks. Quicktime makes the bellhousing to bolt this trans to small or big block mopars.

Doesn't take much reading on ls1tech.com or other GM/Viper/Cobra sites to see the t-56 has been proven FAR past its given torque rating.

As far as 5 speeds, there is a lot more market for a $5k bolt-in trans than a $5k cut-it-up trans.

Jamie,
Any more updates on timing for your trans? Any general balpark on how much power to weight it can handle? Is this designed for the 12 second street strip full body car or more toward the 10 second street strip full body car?

Talk a little bit more about this, if you can.

Thanks,
Larry

or the feasability of a set of straight cut 2.93/red stripe ratios to install in a std 4spd box.

for 5K you can buy a liberty or g-force five speed and never have to worry about breaking a trans again.

t-56 feedback:

the LT1 trannies have an oddball midplate and clutch arrangement (IIRC it's a pull type vs. push type pressure plate) that may be difficult to adapt to mopars

and the F body trannies have a weak 27 spline output shaft. I have a friend with a '96 impala with a 396 CID LT1 stroker and T-56 who snapped the output shaft the first time he took it to the drag strip (with street tires). he upgraded it to a viper tailshaft (uses the same spline as a 727). eventually he picked up a chev SSR T-56 to eliminate the funky LT1 clutch, and for better overall gear ratio spread. IIRC, it uses a larger output shaft, similar to the viper's.

sorry man, but if im gonna pay 5k for a tranny id be alot more concerned with its strength then just for the fact that it has OD...mine as well just buy a gear vendors

Larry,
I really can't answer that question. I am not dodging it, but a 12 second street car is a hot 340 car now adays. So, I would have to say that we would be trying to cover both types of cars.

As for the 2.93 red stripe gears. SURE, we can cut them. The problem is that the gearsets will cost $10,000.00 a piece. We just don't get enough call to run gears like that. I would say that we may sell 10 gearsets a year in that configuration. We could not absorb that type of cost to return ratio. The tooling and setup are astronomical. I.E. That is why the "others" are made in Korea.

By the way, we are trying to keep cost well under $5000.00 on this unit.

Possible any currently made straight cut gears fit into existing 833 with little mods?
how many red stripe sets you sitting on, any 9310 clusters etc?

Jamie, I had been looking at your 4 speed hemi OD units till I heard about you developing a 5 speed. Now, for me, I have to convert from a 727, so my cost goes up even more. Are you guys going to offer a kit for conversion, or just the tranny itself? thanks for your time.

I doubt he'd need to offer a kit to convert, there are a few decent ones already on the market not to mention good used sources (especially A-body pedals, repro floor humps, shifters, etc. are still pretty common & cheap).

I don't have 100% confirmation on this but I think he may be doing conversions in his new expanded shop.As far as a conversion goes all you would need is everything in front of the tranny like the clutch ,flywheel,can,and pedals.Your crossmember and driveshaft would be the same and the tranny will come with the shifter as I understand.
Gus

thanks guys. just looking to find all the stuff in one place thats all. If I have to piece it together than so be it.

you can buy most if not all stock factory repopped linkage and hump from brewers,,,but if you have big tube or custom headers ,you may consider going hyd clutch of some sort,,either a hyd bearing or slave cylinder,,i built my own system,works great

ok,,1st of all..this site isnt pic friendly to older digital cameras,,if pics are bigger then 3 megapixels they dont post,,,i now have a camera with adjustable picture size,,but those ;ics are too big to post and there are a lot of them,,,ide gladly E MAIL you a few so you can get an idea of what i used,,,heres a little bit about what ive used and what i currently use,,

for about 10 years, i used a tilton hyd bearing,hard mounted in to the scatter shield, it didnt have enough travel to work properly,,as i learned,and it was a nascar bearing built for the GM stuff,,but had parts that were suppost to make it fit a mopar application,,as time went on,1st gear got harder and harder to get in to at stop,,,then it wasnt engauging enough and wore out the 4th gear syncro,,at the time i installed this unit,,between tilton and center force, i didnt get correct specs form either of the 2 companies,,so when it failed i investagated it again,,learing what i believed to be the correct specs,,and not enough travel of the bearing,,i could of shimmed it but it may not of wanted to return or relax enough to not wear the pressure plate fingers,,and by this time i didnt want to have to pull a tranny in a early A body again to service it,,so i went with a slave cylinder,,puller type from speed way motors,,i think the travel on the slave cylinder is 1 1/8, and i used a wilwood master designed for a hyd clutch,,it had the longest stroke and a 3/4 bore,,the master has to be installed 2 inches below the pedal pivot point to have corect travel,,on my A body, that is where the speedo cable went thru,,so i moved the cable and made that hole big enoiugh for the master,,,also made a plate inside to support the thin sheet metal of the fire wall,,a heim joint on the end of the push rod,and a bracket i made and welded it to the clutch pedal,to space it out to reach left of the pedal to the push rod,,,the slave cyl is currently mounted in the factory hole of the fork,,but i am going to dril a hole 1 inch in,to creat more fork travel,,and less pedal travel,,but my pedal have a lot of play,i will address that before moving the slave attaching point,,,i can supply a ton of pics if you e mail me your e mail if your intrested,,,slave cyl 45 bucks,,master 49 bucks i believe,, fstfish66@aol.com