Has anyone ever had to use different spring rates on the rear of a car, or had to raise lower shock mount to make a car level from side to side.
Front of car sits level, rear of car is lower on dr. side with no driver and worse with driver.
Thanks Brian W.

Sounds like a lot of race cars including mine.
Pre-load on the RR to keep it going straight.

If this is a coil over rear suspension I would try swapping the coil overs with each other, put the left one on the right side and vise a versa. if the sag follows the spring and shock see if the spring or shock has gone bad, if it doesn't the suspenion is preloading the chassis

Thanks for the responses. Yes it is coilovers, I will try that. The ladder bars are set neutral. We foot brake the car this weekend to a 1.37 60 ft. and car is going straight. I didn't want to start preloading just to get cosmetic stance of car, but would like car to set level. We just built this car and are trying to get it lined out. 1st night out went 1.40 60 at 6.23 1/8th, 111mph. This weekend 1.37 60 at 6.06 1/8th at 113.92. Thanks again, will try swapping shocks Brian W.

Now you know we're gonna ask you for your engine combo and a pic of the car.

It could also be the leaf spring is weaker on that side of the car, make sure car is on level ground and take measurements of all four corners. I would go to as far as to measure from points on the frame to the ground, to narrow down the problem

Thanks for all responses. The car is a customers/friends car. 71 Demon, glass hood and deck lid lexan windows. 528 engine indy-1 heads flat top pistons 727 trans 4.56 gears 8 3/4 rear, 29.5 10.5 tire. As for as appearance its primer black [gangster look lol]. I dont have pictures but have video from first passes but have no idea of how to put on here. Iam computer challenged [aka computer dummy]. Will be rebuilding complete front suspension next week so i will measure frame throughout to see whats going on. Thanks Brian W.

I have Duster that had a 8 3/4 in it with coil overs and ladder bars, the rear housing was not back braced and ended up twisting and bending until the ladder bar brackets broke off of the housing The car would sag after running it some and I would reajust the front and raer ride hieghts, the car was talking to me and I wasn't listening to it correctly Jack the car up on a level surface and put jack stands under the rame, let the suspension hang free and measure the frame rails front and raer from the surface, measure the lower control arms at the lower ball joints,measure the rear endhousing and to the bottom of the coil over adjusters. If you see or when you measure a difference from side to side on the same components, IE lower control arm, frame rails or rear end housing then see if you can figure out why it is that way Good luck, let us know what you find BTW, I have seen a lot of cars riding that way at the races, especially the old SS suspension cars. Don't forget to check the torsion bar adjustmenst from side to side also

Video of car

With coilovers and t bars or coilovers on the front and you should be able to get it right on the money lift up the rear axle from the center using a floor jack with something to act as a fulcrum ( I used to use a socket. set the front ride hights close and level from side to side.

then adjust the rear until the tires are off the floor the same amount.

set the car on the ground and fine tune your ride heights by making the same number of turns on the coilovers from side to side and front to rear.

now you are ready to put it on the scales and set your cross weight. If you do it right you will have a car that sits level and has the wheel weights you need for racing.

If your chasis will not sit evenly on 4 jackstands on a level floor you will never get perfect ride heights.

good luck