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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
#490499
10/07/09 11:55 PM
10/07/09 11:55 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,066
Mo.
racerx
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,066
Mo.
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Quote:
Plenty of guys running in the 9's with properly preped 8 3/4's.. 
True...I'v been many of 1.35's 60 at 3350 lbs.with a best of a 1.28 this past weekend
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: 1976 Aspen]
#490501
10/08/09 08:03 AM
10/08/09 08:03 AM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,826
NY usa
540challenger
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,826
NY usa
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Quote:
Moser Nodular Iron 9" Center Section: $345
Daytona Style Pinion Support & Bearing: $125
Moser Full Spool: $190
Richmond Gear Set: $180
Moser Billet Steel Pinion Yoke: $125
All of the above good for 1000 HP and not even close to $1500
Plus aftermarket axles: 325
Cost of the housing itself lets say cheap way junkyard: 100
New ends: 69
We are at $1459 assuming he is doing the labor to cut and fit the rear
streetcar posi:200 over a spool
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#490502
10/08/09 10:08 AM
10/08/09 10:08 AM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,145
Arizona, USA
gsmopar
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,145
Arizona, USA
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Quote:
For the money, I recommend a Strange-60 assy.
This will cost less, and weigh virtually the same as a good drag style 9" rear. Stockish circle track type 9" rears may cost and weigh less, but these are not really any stronger than an 8 3/4".
If you must have a third-member and your car makes torque and hooks up hard, I recommend stepping up to a 9.5" (or larger) assembly. This is what the big boys run.
That's what I did! Thanks again Dr. Diff!!!
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: gsmopar]
#490504
10/09/09 06:54 PM
10/09/09 06:54 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,067
Orlando Florida
blown572dart
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,067
Orlando Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
For the money, I recommend a Strange-60 assy.
This will cost less, and weigh virtually the same as a good drag style 9" rear. Stockish circle track type 9" rears may cost and weigh less, but these are not really any stronger than an 8 3/4".
If you must have a third-member and your car makes torque and hooks up hard, I recommend stepping up to a 9.5" (or larger) assembly. This is what the big boys run.
That's what I did! Thanks again Dr. Diff!!!
I am going with another 9" for the Valiant.That is my chassis guy recomendation and that is what it will get 
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: Bigcube]
#490505
10/09/09 07:32 PM
10/09/09 07:32 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,414
Toronto
mshred
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,414
Toronto
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Quote:
Quote:
The Dana 60 is out because of the weight and changing gears are a pain in the butt. I race 1/8 and 1/4 so changing the 3rd member is no big deal on the 8.75 or 9".
I don't find this a good argument against a D60. Most people don't have the extra coin to have 2 GOOD third members laying around. Seems like a good 9" center will be up around $1500?
couldnt agree more! i hear so many say they want the 9 inch for swapability, but half of them dont even have another pumpkin lying around....in my opinion the dana is the way to go....stronger, eats less horsepower, keeps it all mopar and looks badass with the cover peekin underneath! carcraft did a test on all three of them and they found this info as well...i dont know if i would keep an 8-3/4 in a backhalfed car- as great as 8-3/4's are, if your gonna spend the money on a rearend from scratch for a fast car, then id spend it on a rearend that you know for a fact will give you the least problems
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: dodgeboy11]
#490510
10/09/09 10:19 PM
10/09/09 10:19 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 440
SW pa
goldenlancer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 440
SW pa
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on the 9 inch i've pulled the pinion right out of the case a couple of times. changed to a
D60 end of problems.This was in a 3000 dodge lancer with a 471.running 10:0s
Last edited by goldenlancer; 10/09/09 10:20 PM.
N/SS
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Re: 8.75 or 9" Rear?
[Re: dodgeboy11]
#490511
10/09/09 10:27 PM
10/09/09 10:27 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,129
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,129
Bend,OR USA
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Every component in racing has a failure point as far as stress and HP. The 8 3/4 with a back brace welded on before doing any straightening is a good start, a steel cap on the left(drivers )side is needed and setting the gears up correctly(move the pinion back .008 to .012 from the optimum distance helps also, 35 spline spool and axles are needed also These fixes won't make a 8 3/4 bullet proof in a 3600 lb car with really good traction and 700+ HP  If you want to swap the ring and pinion gear out around 100 hundred runs it will live that long as proven in many bracket and NHRA class cars. Those that use that maintenace routine normally sell the used ring and piniuons to help pay for the new ones If you want a bullet proof rear end then use the Dana 60 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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FORD= "Fix Or Repair Daily", not "First On Race Day" 
AMEN...... 
