It's been a while since I've been on this website but I have a question. I run Super Gas with a 511 B-1 engine in a '88 T-Bird (old ex pro stock car). It runs 160 - 163 mph @ 9.90 in Super Gas which used to be near the top of the class. Now all the Chebbie guys are using 555, 565, 582 + engines and 160 + is middle of the road. What I need to do is build me a bigger rubber band. I'm really tempted to chuck it all and build a 615 Big Chief G.M. creation. Bob Philips has a 604 NRC headed powerhouse which runs at 170 + MPH. I need to find out what Mopar aluminum blocks are out there. Does anybody out there have reliable info on Indy, Keith Black, World etc. I like the aluminum block because they're light and repairable. I'd want it to have replaceable sleeves.
Thanks for any info
Ken Bowers

I can speak for KB. I've been very happy with the block and the service after the sale. I'm sure it will take anything you want to throw at it and survive. I'm an not sure of their current status. The last time I ordered from them was in the spring, there was talk of them shutting down production.

Thanks for the reply. My first choice would probably be a K.B. but I don't know if they're still out there. I saw an add for a World block at Ohio Crank but I don't have a price or how good they are. I haven't heard good things about the Indy block.
K.B.

I have an Indy block, no issues so far,

Hmmm not to BUT KB is out of business and Indy blocks are still availible.....LOL

I can speak of the Indy block. But be sure to read the last few sentences of my reply.
The Indy block was delivered to me by Muscle Motors. It still needed bored and honed. The Unfinished bores delivered were about 4 1/4 in diameter, leaving someone building a bore specific engine to any size or to meet class specs. The line bore was perfect, also was the lifter bores, which were non bushed. The decks looked like they were finished with a chain saw, and in no way could be run without decking.
The block was $4200 + delivery.
Cause of the bores needing opening up near a 1/4 inch takes a while to bore, and being steel sleeves its hard to bore, and was expensive. I didnt want the local shop doing this major job IMO. I figured it would be easy to get the bore out of centers boring that much.
I sent my block off to Best Machine to be finished in that killer Rottler CNC boring/decking machine.
The tally for the finish bore and hone for piston fit, and install cam bearings, deck the block was $1000
I knew the engine was right though.
The block made good power but was limited in cylinder head cross section of the 440-1's. It made in the neighborhood of 850-875HP range and was a pretty reliable bracket engine, that had moderately low shift points. About 7200-7300 rpm.
About the only change I would have made, or modified on the block was the smallish oil return holes in the valley area. I opened mine up eventually over a 1/4" and counter sunk/chamfer around the openings with a 1/2 bit.
These blocks are a dry sleeve design with Priority oiling, they have billet steel main caps, and all five mains are cross bolted. I actually like how the main cap fits the block better than the Keith Black block.

I actually went with the Indy block to save some money, which really I didnt. The KB would have been about the same money, and IMO is a nicer/stronger piece. But these blocks would easily handle 1300+hp...So I wasnt no where near the blocks strength threshold.


Dont forget about the World Blocks...They have some nice options that the KB and Indy block doesn't offer. Like Duel bolt patterns for a chevy transmission. I ran this engine in a dragster and a glide was/is the only choice. So not having to use a adapter will save yous some money and headache also.
Also the World Block has means for internal oil pickup, which wasnt a real issue with me, but it would be a nice option in cars that people doesn't want,use or have room for a external pickup.

Bob, is that an off the shelf oil pan ? How deep and wide is it ??


I've had the Indy low deck block since I think '97 no problems.

If car #1 runs a
9.90@163mph

and car #2 runs a
9.90@170mph

Who arrives at the finish line first.

The guy with the better light

I am very happy with my KB block as well. I also ran a World Hemi block with no issues, well other than the weight. But I have only managed to go 157 in S/ST with 525 cubes

BTW glad to see you are back posting here. Hopefully you wont be such a stranger. BTW do you still have the Barracuda running S/ST?

Welcome to Super Gas Racing American style. We have a number of cars out here in the 170's and at least one I know of at 180 Of course we also have one that does VERY well at 125 too

They are using something called a throttle stop. They launch hard and the the throttle stop comes on for a predetermined amount of time and closes the throttle some. And then it turns off and the car charges to the finish line. The idea is, the car doing the chasing has the advantage because they can judge there opponent better coming from behind and not go faster than 8.90 or 9.90.

While approaching a 125 mph car at 180 mph the judging isn't that easy.
Personally, I hate throttle stops and delay boxes.

throttle stop huh? i'm using a window switch to take timing out so i'm always running 9.9??. so if i holeshot my competition which is the norm, i run hard to the finish & then look for the competition coming up from behind. i generally guage it so i just get the wheels over the chalk 12" before my opponent.if anyone runs ahead of me i know they'll breakout. with a throttle stop you have to spend more $$ so you can slow it down, whats the point?

WOW we have really messed up B1Kens post huh??

Here is my take as a high MPH T-Stop racer. I believe it gives me an advantage. I choose to run S/ST which is our 10.90 class. 99.99% of the cars in the class run a programmable stop, be it electric or air operated. There are still a few hold out who use mechanical stops, bolts, restrictor plates etc to slow thier cars to 10.90. The majority of the cars here are in the 127-135mph range, a few lower a few higher. I run 10.90 at 154-157 depending on weather wind etc. So the way it works is on my car is we stage and I leave off the two step at 4000rpm, after of course a delay, typically for me it is .080-.090 for the .5 tree. Once the brake releases the car IMMEDIATELY goes on the stop at 4200rpm. I shift the car, with an air shifter and timer at .5 into the run. The stop on my car is adjustable on the rate it opens, mine is opening as slow as it can. I come off the stop, meaning it begins to open at from 4.8-5.2 seconds, once again track, weather and wind dependent and then I am all out to the strip, or til I catch my opponent. Confused yet??? My "percerived" advantage in my eyes is being one of the faster S/ST cars is that the race is uaually always in front of me, I am chasing and can see the race unfold in front of me. One other "advantage" I have seen so far is most of my opponents being 20+mph slower usaully do not lift and try to back into me. The way I see it is I have the advantage. Time will tell I guess.

Hi Ken, welcome back!

I just bought a low deck Indy Max alum block from Muscle Motors and Mike told me he could not get a KB block right now...

They machined everything into spec and bushed the lifter bores.

Call Mike at MM to get a price.

Cheers,

Arnie

The Indy Maxx blocks come with NO oiling to the lifters, why did they bush it? Keyway lifters? Just not like aluminum bores? Did they drill it for lifter oiling?

I'm fairly sure you can still get KB blocks..

You should call and check.. Last I heard you could..

Chris..

I'm building two 572 engines right now using the World Products "prepped" aluminum blocks. I checked them both before deciding on what machining to do and guess what - nothing, nada, no machining required. Line hone was perfect (+ or - .0005), as was the lifter bushings, block height, sleeves and cap clearances.

I love KB blocks because I have built so many race engines with them including my own TS motor. Never had an issue that Ken didn't take care of. Great company, but if you can't get a KB - the WP block is my choice.

426/440 Aluminum BB-Chrysler Race-Prepped Engine Block
Deck: 10.725
Bore: 4.530 Type:
Wedge Main Caps: Nodular, Cross Bolted
$7,864.99 truck frieght $119.00

Just seems a little high to me even though it's prepped.

Looks way to high if you ask me too, I payd about 2k less for my alu KB ready to use...