ok here is what is going on.i have a 4 speed in my bee.when you take off hard the clutch slips and then the weird thing happens it sounds like something swings and hits and then it pulls like a raped ape with no slippage at all.what in the world is doing this.we have had the car since 1979 and the clutch peddle never has came back on its own.and that is with new clutches throw out bearings pressure plates everything and it has be adjusted properly.what could do this is there anything under the dash to cause this that is where the sound comes from.thanks

what kind of clutch, pressure plate, etc. did u put in it?
some of these new ones you have to put a different spring in under the dash

it has a hays street and strip combo with stock throwout bearing.i looked under dash and didnt see anything loose.its weird it slips and if you let off and nail it again you hear what ever hit and then its on like butter and no slippage.of course the pedal still doesnt return unless you pull up with your foot.

from brewers page:
H85-301 HAYS 10.5" 23 SPLINE STREET/STRIP CLUTCH PKG Details

Hays 10.5" 23 spline street/strip clutch kit, requires substantially more pedal effort to operate than street only kit, be advised that stock clutch linkage may require reinforcements. Package includes disc, pressure plate, pressure plate bolts, thowout bearing & clutch alignment tool. Fits 130 tooth flywheels/23 spline input transmissions.

so why would that cause it to act like something is swinging and then it dont slip.i understand that is more effort with that set up but i would not think it would cause it to do that.i didnt know if the huge spring under the dash would have anything to do with it or not.

Is the linkage adjusted correctly? 1 inch of freeplay before the pedal feels like its pushing on the t/o bearing?

Are the bushings and balls in the linkage worn?

Have someone watch the firewall and linkage when you push in the clutch. Any flexing of the firewall or components? Is the linkage hitting or running against anything? Are any parts worn in the linkage?

Is the fork installed properly? Any wear or damage to the fork pivot point in the bellhousing?

Any binding of the pedal linkage? Does it squeal when you push it in - does it need grease? Is the over center return spring installed? Is it shot?

Are you using an aftermarket belhousing/scattershield? If so, is the z bar at 90 degrees to the frame rail (like stock) or off on an angle?

Did you set the clutch disc air gap properly per the Hays instructions?

I had the Hays Street/Strip clutch kit behind a mild 360 in my van (which has no pedal return spring) and never had an issue withe the pedal returning. You do have the clutch fork return spring installed, correct?

Check your motor mounts and the trans mount. If a motor mount has torn loose the engine will torque over and could bind the clutch linkage preventing it from releasing and then when it settles back down a bit, the linkage releases making the clunk you hear and the clutch is then fully applied.

thanks for all the suggestions.allthe linkages have been adjusted.the free play has been set and the pedal still wont come back.i dont know what the big spring under the dash does but i thought maybe it was weak.never thought about tranny mount or motor mount.it does not seem to slip under normal operation.

So to clarify, the clutch only slips when you release it quickly, i.e. "dump the clutch"?

When you let it out normally, there is no slippage, correct?

no when i leave it out and jump on it hard thats when it slips let off of it without pushing clutch in i hear it swing and hit then jump back into it it doesnt slip i guess i have never really dumped it i guess i will have to try that

Check the bushings.
Then adjust until the pedal will return. It isn't right if it won't return. I got my first 4 speed car and the pedal had to be pulled up with my foot. Adjustment cured it.

i have had brewers and a transmission shop adjust it and the pedal will still not return i have just got used to it but i know its not right and it does not do it when it is not running.

Nobody has mentioned the overcenter spring. It it still in place and functioning? Needs to be there w/a Borg and Beck (or Long) (3-finger) pressure plate. If swapped to a diaphragm, you need to dump the OC spring and fabricate a return spring setup at the pedal, in addition to the stock one at the fork.

Rick

i have had brewers and a transmission shop adjust it and the pedal will still not return i have just got used to it but i know its not right

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Why did Brewers let your car leave their shop, knowing the problem wasn't solved?........somethings missing here?....A 4spd installation isn't that hard an install, if the right componets are used,....what was Brewers determination of the problem?


What the lb rating of your pressure plate, it's a 3 finger design, BB or BBL, correct?


Mike

brewers did nothing wrong he adjusted it same with the tranny shop and if i remember right it lasted about a day or so and then you have to pull it up with your foot.i remember replacing everything as far as new disc new pressure plate new throwout bearing and adjusted it and guess what still no return and yes the spring is on both the top and bottom.i even had a chrysler tech who was a 20 year pro make me longer adjusting rod to try and have more adjustment and same bs.i just what it to return without haveing to pull it up and for it not to act like that so i can whoop some chevy tail.

First thing I would try is to disconnect the pedal push rod at the pedal and then depress the pedal til it hits the floor--watch it-- don't keep your fingers under the pedal as it will snap down and could really hurt your hand. Now, pull UP on the pedal until it hits the center point and it should snap up to full up position just past center. If it doesn't then something with the pedal is causing this, really bad bearings, something in the way, or as I have seen in the past someone installed a Chevy up-stop rubber bumper which is real thick and doesn't allow for full pedal travel, process of elimination if this isn't it. Now connect the rod but remove the fork rod and try again, this should let you know if something with the Z-bar is fouled up, good luck.

thanks i know it will go to the floor because it has before when the rod fell off.but i have never tried it the other way.if it doesnt does that mean that the spring is bad or weak inside.i will try it and see what happens.