My buddy put a disc brake upgrade on his 68 Coronet R/T covertible 3 or 4 years ago and the pedal feels like you need to push farther than it goes to have a good brake. He's been driving like this and I test drove it and thought I would never stop the car!

He got the kit from a reputable vendor and had it installed by a factory trained MOPAR Tech.

I feel the push rod isn't long enough from the booster to the master cylinder.

Has anyone experienced this problem?

Is there a fix I can handle for my friend?

Any other info needed?

Many thanks for your help on the fuel tank sender problem!

Regards,
Steve

Im pretty sure if you went from drum to disk you should have swapped out the pushrod too.

if the problems continue with that 'ol Dodge tell your buddy he should just dump it. let me know and Ill be down to get it.

The push rod should just be in contact with the first piston in the master cylinder with the pedal at the full up position... If the piston is moved about 1/32 from it's released position the fluid port in the rear master cylinder reservoir will be closed off & the front brakes will drag... If there is excess free play the pedal will be low.... But a number of other things can cause a low pedal, lengthening the pushrod may not be the right approach.... BTW is this power discs or manual discs...

Oh yeah, how's the parking brake work?

If its using the aftermarket booster and corvette stlye master with the double bail wire ditch it.You would be better off with a used factory booster or a manual disc brake setup.The Chinese booster/master cylinders have major problems.

This was a power drum brake car.

They put a disc brake master on the original booster and calipers, look like they are from an Aspen or D100 mid 70's truck.

The rear brakes have a separate Willwood adjustable proportioning valve and when I shut the rear brakes off the front brakes still won't lock the wheels up.

I did adjust the rear brakes as there are no automatic adjusters on the factory drum brake system.

E-Brake works great, this is a very nice driver & the guy is original owner of a 68 R/T convert and bought this one to feed his mid life crisis 30 years ago.

He said somethin about cash for clunkers as I was splashing gas all over the garage.......

Thanks,
Steve

Take a measurment of how deep the hole in the first piston of the master cylinder is & a measurment of how long the pushrod protrudes from the booster... When the pedal finally hits does it feel solid or spongy? Will it lock the front wheels on dirt?? I worked on one recently that the pedal height was ok but the car didn't stop well.. Bleeding the fronts & adjusting the proportioning valve was all it took on that one.. If he's ready I'll happily give him double the Cash For Clunkers value..