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Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: Johnny V] #39314
03/25/10 02:00 AM
03/25/10 02:00 AM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 33
San Francisco
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Mercurymarc Offline
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Sam and Johnny V-
thanks for the comments about my website...
Good luck with the rolling!
Thinner is better, that's for darn sure!
My paint is hard enough (White thinned about 30% until it was like nonfat milk). I think you don't really need test panels- I used my hood a took my time. It got a few more "practice coats" than the rest of the car but I figure it protects better that way against rock chips... Here is my ride after 1 year as my daily driver on a nice March afternoon in San Francisco...



Link to the White Comet Web Story...


Marc in SF
63 Blue Comet 260 Sedan- White w/blue stripes
Done using the "$50 Paint Job" method!
Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: RoboGeek] #39315
03/25/10 02:39 AM
03/25/10 02:39 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 10
Western Wa
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Quote:

I think over time we have all learned that the rolling just adds the paint.. its the surface prep and the final sanding that makes this work.

We have also been experimenting with hardeners, which real seem to help on the final results. rolledon.com is where us hard core rollers are..



I agree, except when it comes to big runs.. i have a couple that i can't get completely flat, definately take your time and put on thin coats.

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: SammFC3s] #39316
03/25/10 08:09 PM
03/25/10 08:09 PM
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Posts: 66
NY
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joeshmo Offline
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Does anyone have any experience with high build primer? The paint on my hood is highly oxidized so there are little pits and scratches all over, but it's only in the paint. I sanded 60-100-120-220 and I can still see the pits and ect. I really don't want to bondo the entire hood, not do I have any desire to sand down to metal. Could I simply roll a high-build automotive primer over the well-sanded paint and expect it to fill these minor imperfections?

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: Exit1965] #39317
03/25/10 08:43 PM
03/25/10 08:43 PM
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Posts: 52
Cornfields of Illinois
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Quote:

Quote:


We have also been experimenting with hardeners, which real seem to help on the final results.




Can you summarize what is known about the hardeners?

I was one of the first here to paint my car with Brightside, no hardener, and even now (3+ years later??) I can make a mark in the paint with my fingernail.

My car is garaged all the time, and I don't drive it much, but I wonder if sun exposure would harden it. Something tells me it's about as hard as it's going to get at this point, having spent 3 summers in a garage that gets up to 110 degrees or so on the hottest days.






The problem with the paint staying soft is usually too thick of layers when you paint, or not letting it dry long enough between layers. What happens is the surface flashes and traps the volatiles underneath. It never completely hardens.

Sun might help, but I doubt it. It probably also doesn't shine up nearly as good as it could if its that soft.


Hardener reacts with the volatiles and the enamel, acting as a catalyst that chemically changes them, so no trapped volatiles and a much harder paint

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: joeshmo] #39318
03/25/10 08:49 PM
03/25/10 08:49 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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Quote:

Does anyone have any experience with high build primer? The paint on my hood is highly oxidized so there are little pits and scratches all over, but it's only in the paint. I sanded 60-100-120-220 and I can still see the pits and ect. I really don't want to bondo the entire hood, not do I have any desire to sand down to metal. Could I simply roll a high-build automotive primer over the well-sanded paint and expect it to fill these minor imperfections?






my whole car looked like this:



I used the rustoleum primer for rusty metal to fill in the imperfections. Bare metal was even pitted on mine!

it came out pretty good..


Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: RoboGeek] #39319
03/25/10 08:57 PM
03/25/10 08:57 PM
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NY
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How did the primer stick? I did primer on one section of my car with a 9" roller and surprisingly enough it turned out pretty well. I didn't thin at all, is it customary to thin primer?

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: joeshmo] #39320
03/25/10 10:22 PM
03/25/10 10:22 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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I didn't thin mine. I tried spray bombs but it wasn't thick enough so i used the primer. It dries faster and harder than regular paint, but sand it down as thin as you can. Primer has a tendency to shrink if its thick

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: RoboGeek] #39321
03/26/10 01:52 AM
03/26/10 01:52 AM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 43
California
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California
well my truck hasn't seen any paint work within last update, but I am just starting to re-sand the body down to get rid of the waves i have from rushed body work earlier. I'll be throwing a few more coats on soon, then color sanding. I can't wait!

I actually just got done putting the body onto a 4x4 f250 chassis.


Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: 1971ford] #39322
03/26/10 09:30 PM
03/26/10 09:30 PM
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Anderson, IN
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Anderson, IN
Hey all,

I tried to add pictures of my progress but they wouldn't show up. Is there something I am doing wrong?

Anyway, I have rollered my first coat. It was a little over two days ago. I performed a scratch test and it is rock hard, despite the cold and crappy weather here. I'm gonna continue tomorrow with a second coat and so on.

Question : Should I have primed it after I laid down body filler? I noticed that the areas of filler are not as shiny as the rest of the paint.

Thanks.


98 Dodge Dakota
Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: Johnny V] #39323
03/27/10 05:00 PM
03/27/10 05:00 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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probably should have sealed it and primed it. There may be some color change, and if you use hardener in the paint, some of that can seep into the filler and cause it to shrink a little.

If it looks bad after a couple more coats you may want to sand it down and primer it. No big loss.. you'll be able to match the paint back up easily

images can be added with

[ img]file_location[/url] - file_location being the address/image name of the website your hosting pics on

take out the space between the first brackets

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: 1971ford] #39324
03/28/10 05:41 PM
03/28/10 05:41 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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1971ford: thats gonna be a sweet truck! Gonna use 2 colors?

Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: RoboGeek] #39325
03/30/10 02:21 PM
03/30/10 02:21 PM
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Posts: 5
Anderson, IN
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Okay I've gotten three coats on the tailgate. I think that it is laying down real smooth, but I think I may be thinning it too much so I am going to try to thicken it a little tonight for the fourth coat.
Coat 1

Coat 2

Coat 3


Sorry for the extremely large photos!


98 Dodge Dakota
Re: Sam's Red Rocket [Re: 1971ford] #39326
03/30/10 10:52 PM
03/30/10 10:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
THEYOUNGGUN53 Offline
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middleOnowhere CA
Quote:

well my truck hasn't seen any paint work within last update, but I am just starting to re-sand the body down to get rid of the waves i have from rushed body work earlier. I'll be throwing a few more coats on soon, then color sanding. I can't wait!

I actually just got done putting the body onto a 4x4 f250 chassis.





wow your doing a ton of work on that thing!

whats the plan for the frame overlap?


a car is never "done"
Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53] #39327
03/30/10 11:00 PM
03/30/10 11:00 PM
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Alexandria,La.
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Have anyone use a spray gun? I thought I seen somewhere in the early articles someone use a spray gun... I like to give that a try I wanting to repaint my truck and was thinking of the roller method any thoughts?

Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: BigTerry] #39328
03/31/10 08:10 PM
03/31/10 08:10 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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actually we do our race cars with rustoleum yellow on the chassis and cage (easy to see cracks with yellow). We spray that and we spray some of the other parts.

It sprays just like any other single stage paint. The advantage of rolling it is you can do it anywhere, with no overspray. Plus its cheaper if you don't have a paint gun setup already. You'll use more paint spraying, since some of it becomes overspray

Last edited by RoboGeek; 03/31/10 08:13 PM.
Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: RoboGeek] #39329
03/31/10 10:04 PM
03/31/10 10:04 PM
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Alexandria,La.
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true this is going to be my first try at it. just wandering which is better?

Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: BigTerry] #39330
04/01/10 06:25 PM
04/01/10 06:25 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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spraying it is exactly the same as any single stage paint job - same results.

Rolling it will give you equally good results.. but coming at it a totally different way

Spraying gives you a nice even coat that needs little sanding, but has all the problems associated with it - overspray and problems with the air supply - mainly water in the lines on humid days.

Rolling gives you nice even coats, but with orange peel, which you sand out every couple coats. Your trading sweat equity in the rolling/sanding for not needing expensive spray equipment, no overspray getting on everything, etc

either way comes out the same if you take the same care prepping it.

here's mine, one year later!!



still a darn nice looking $500 winter beater!!

Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: RoboGeek] #39331
04/03/10 02:09 AM
04/03/10 02:09 AM
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Posts: 66
NY
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joeshmo Offline
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NY
Hey, does anyone have any knowledge on painting thin fiberglass? I just pulled a spoiler from the junkyard and it's faded and awful and the wrong color, so what is the procedure? It seems like I shouldn't start at too low a grit because it will gouge the fiberglass. So is it like start with 400 grit wetsanding or something? Thanks for the input.

Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: joeshmo] #39332
04/03/10 01:22 PM
04/03/10 01:22 PM
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Cornfields of Illinois
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lol.. half my car is fiberglass!
400 will work fine - if its in fairly decent shape you could even start out with 600

Re: 88 Dodge Dakota [Re: RoboGeek] #39333
04/06/10 12:43 AM
04/06/10 12:43 AM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 246
middleOnowhere CA
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almost done with the bug! I'm putting on the final coats now!

big tip to follow, reuse rollers by washing them in mineral spirits then rinsing with water. They get very very expensive after a while. I only wish I'd known this earlier


a car is never "done"
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