its getting there, I need to fix a few things on the roof as it was the most beat up thing on the car.

Right now I'm focusing mostly on the interior, the dash is going to take the longest as I have a lot of fixing and back dating to do on it. I might get it done by summer, I just don't know which one

man, that supra looks awesome!

So can anyone tell me how this works on the urethane body parts like the lower valance, and rollpans on trucks?

I am practically ready to take the truck apart and get this done!!!!

I decided to do my ugly black stock bumpers and trim with the same semi-gloss that the lower panels are painted. Prepped them real good, allowed lots of drying time before painting (I fear porous plastic!) but it came out real good. No pics of it till spring though - car that was supposed to be my winter beater is now my 'summer' car, so its parked and buried under global warming

After reading the first 20 or so pages of the thread I decided to try and repaint my bmw. I did a test run behind my license plate. I don't know if I thinned it enough? It looked very orange peely, and had some bubbles in it. Is this normal for the first coat or should I thin it more? I can post pics of my progress if anyone would like, I plan on doing the whole car if I get the hang of it.

Please post pics, we would love to see the progress

So I now am pretty sure I did not thin the paint enough, it seemed pretty thin when mixing, but it felt thick when rolling it on? Maybe I just need some better technique. I got a lot of orange peeling, and some bubbles. There was a spot on the right side that looked and felt better than the rest though.


The picture was taken after a quick sand. It's also not very hard and I could easily peel it off. Which may just be because I laid it on too thick? I'm still very hesitant about doing the entire car. Here's a before picture also, so you can see why I am painting my car.

I would definatly thin it out some more, a 50/50 mix usually does it for me. Though I haven't painted much since its gotton cold out.

make sure you sqeez as much paint out of the roller before you touch the car to.

as for the hardness, paint takes much longer to dry in the cold.

also you would probably benifit a lot from more sanding, I'd go from 120 to 400 to 800 before painting. Take it down until theres no more shiny areas at all, maybe even some primer showing through. Prep is always key.

don't forget the sanding block

here is the 91 blazer I did with rustoleum/ thinner/ roller method about a year ago, it never gets washed the boy has it at college for now, more pics at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8626355@N05/4236703811/

[image]http://www.flickr.com/photos/8626355@N05/4236703811/[/image]

finaly an update from me, I've been back dating the dash (getting rid of the late model vents and repairing the hacked up radio port)

first was the fiberglassing and removing of paint



then the body filler

<br>

filler sanded



and primerd

quick question, would it be possible to mix gloss paint and flat paint to creat a semi gloss look without any drying/adhesion/chemical reaction problems?

You'll have experiment with mix ratios to get the luster you are after, but otherwise there should be no problems.

cool, thank you

I have been reading for a while... Currently working nearly everyday on painting my truck.

I have learned alot during the project and hope to contribute knowledge to the thread and get advice for my project.

HERES HOW IT LOOKED WHEN I GOT IT:




LATEST PIC:

5th coat on the bed panel. I am still getting orange peel, I will try to thin the mix a tad bit more, but it is a pretty this consistency.

When I started the project I was using this:
http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Tools-Sup...catalogId=10053

I would avoid this product at all costs and the difference between this and normal "odorless" mineral spirits is night & day.

first difference is that the spirits are WHITE in color. I could never get a properly thinned mix, it always maintained a thicker consistency and when I did get it thin the paint completely lost it's shine. In comparison the coats with the "green" mineral spirits were much duller. I was always scratching my head to why, well now I know.

Also, for the brushes & paint trays I found the best place is Wal Mart, they have multi-packs of foam brushes for $1.50, which is great & 3 packs of roller trays for 1.50. The trays also seem a little thicker and tougher than the white ones I was using previously.

just did this today, I used a cheap hplv gun I bought at a garage sale for $5 and my dads air compressor. It came out WAY better than I expected. I'm very happy with the results!

Looks sweet. It that the white primer or rusto paint? are you going white on the exterior as well?

never thought I'd say it - but I found a little rust on my 2002 cavy! PAINT JOB!!!

btw.. the 93 cavy winter beater hasn't been driven once this winter - its too pretty!!

You ever gonna finish that bug?? lol