I am posting this for a friend who has a small block powered '73 Charger. He has been running Hooker Headers on the car and after having to remove the engine for an engine swap, which I helped with, he would like to find something better than the Hooker headers that he has been using and he would like to use the best hardware/fasteners currently out there for bolting up the headers.

Regretably, TTI headers are not within the budget.

The hooker headers have lousy bolt clearance for installing and removing the headers from the heads (tiny 7/16" bolt heads) and the collector clearance for the collector bolts is not the greatest either. In addition, the left header has to have the steering linkage run between two of the pipes which is a big negative. The car is a street car running a mildly tweaked 318 but a 360 is in the long term picture.

Your header recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

In addition, he is looking for recommendations on what mounting hardware he should use. He is looking for fasteners with long-term resistance to coolant for the bolts that enter the water jacket and for fasteners that are easy to remove and install. Are the Allen head fasteners the way to go?

Everyone's input based on their experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

Honestly, I think your friend is nit-picking. Tell him to put a big block in that car instead of a baby-sized(in that engine bay) 318. Then he's allowed to piss and moan about headers!

I always used what the factory did, regular bolts. Put washers under the bolt heads though. As for sealing against coolant, you should be using a sealant on the bolts, that's more important than fastener type. Some guys say they like to run studs on the outboard header bolts to help line everything up, but I find there's not enough clearance to do that with a tight big block fit. Small block should be no problem though, so much room in that engine bay you can practically get in with it to work on it.

Sounds to me your buddy would be much happier with a set of 68-70 340 HP manifolds than a set of headers if thse issues are bothering him. Manifolds offer a great fit and no clearance, bolt or tube issues, plus will probably offer about the same performance on an otherwise stock/stockish 318.

Sounds like Dougs makes a good header https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...;gonew=1#UNREAD

Daytona Turbo:

No, not nit-picking, just trying to do things right on a budget with the parts and pieces available. The short story is that the car was completely re-done a couple of years ago with a built 360 but sadly some things went wrong and the 360 was slowly destroying itself.

With a child in college and the usual house related expenses, building this or another 360 again just isn't in the financial plans right now but will be down the road and with a low mileage 318 available, the choice to let the car be a garage ornament or something that can be driven is a no brainer.

The goal is to ensure that when the 318 goes in, that when it is time to pull it and upgrade the drivetrain in a few years that the hassles with removing the headers are minimized.

The car has a virtually new exhaust system set up for headers so the preference would be to stick with headers.

I will look into using stock type manifold bolts and appreciate the tip. We will have to check for bolt head clearance.

BTW, one of the issues with Hooker headers is that even with a small block, there is not a lot of room and just like a big block, the headers cannot be removed until the engine is pulled.

Thanks. I look forward to receiving more input.

Bill

A small headpipe going from the manifold outlet to his current exhaust system will connect the two together. It is not a long distance between the manifold outlets and the header outlets. If your buddy wants something clean that fits perfect there is no other choice IMO. Headers are just more effort all over. That's all part of it. If he's going to be pulling and installing motors a few more times in that car, he is going to be much happier with the manifolds IMO. Two bolts on each side to disconnect the head pipes from the manifold outlets then the motor comes right out. You can not get any easier than that. No header is fun to remove the motor with.

I also heard the early 90's magnum exhaust manifolds flowed quite well. Someone else will know more, but they'd be a very budget friendly alternative.

Anyone else have any input? My friend really wants to keep headers in the car.

Bill

An economical solution would be he could use Magnum engine manifolds with the big outlet ports. I believe they are 2.125 inch. The drivers side will "kiss" the P/S Box but it will fit. Should be able to pick up at a salvage yard. Early Magnum engine 93-95 or so Rams, Dakotas, Grand Cherokees. He'll have to use bolts on the outer head bolts as studs will not clear (these are water jacket areas and will leak coolant when removed). Oil filter needs to be the kind that screws directly onto the block and not the 90 degree adapter type. These manifolds are "equivalent" to the early 340 manifold. One side actually flows better.