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Re: Re [Re: Marq] #38574
12/19/08 03:58 AM
12/19/08 03:58 AM

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Marq,

Did you also used 1 can of 333 fluid?
I know you used mineral spirits,
in that case, how much bottles of spirits did you used to thin the paint?

Re: Re #38575
12/19/08 02:52 PM
12/19/08 02:52 PM
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Quote:

Marq,

Did you also used 1 can of 333 fluid?
I know you used mineral spirits,
in that case, how much bottles of spirits did you used to thin the paint?




Originally I only purchased 1 can of the 333 ( because it is expensive compared to pure mineral spirits. But I ended up buying a second can. And it was when that second can ran out in the middle of a coating that I turned to the mineral spirits to finish the job. Since it worked so well ( as well as the 333 ) I ended up sticking with the mineral spirits from that point on..

.

Re: Re #38576
12/20/08 04:19 PM
12/20/08 04:19 PM
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Quote:

Marq,

Did you also used 1 can of 333 fluid?
I know you used mineral spirits,
in that case, how much bottles of spirits did you used to thin the paint?




Not Marq but he may do as I did, I use the stir and drip method, thin to a point where when you stir and raise the stir sitick (I use a old clean screwdriver) the time it takes for the paint to go from a stream to drip/drops shpuld take an easy 6-8 count. Worked great for me, I'm sure Marq will chime in.

Re: Re [Re: 69DartGT] #38577
12/22/08 05:44 AM
12/22/08 05:44 AM

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What do you mean DartGT?
My english is not very well, I don't get the 6/8 method translated

Just thin the paint in the paint holdster,
long enough until you can stir the stick without a large amount of force?

Just a little bit thicker as water ?

Last edited by greenbeauty; 12/22/08 05:45 AM.
Re: Re #38578
12/22/08 08:08 PM
12/22/08 08:08 PM
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Stir the paint after adding a little thinner, then lift the stir stick up out of the paint, the paint will run off the end as soon as you lift it up and as the paint runs off the stir stick it will be in a solid stream but after a couple of seconds or so it will go from a stream to drips, I add thinner until the time it goes from a stream to drip is me counting from 1 to 6 or 8.
Hope that helps.

Re: Re [Re: 69DartGT] #38579
12/24/08 05:36 AM
12/24/08 05:36 AM

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Marq,

The second roll, for popping the bubbels.
Did you roll this roller in the oppositie direction of the paint you just rolled with the first roller?
Or follow-up the same direction?

Re: How thin should the paint be? [Re: 69DartGT] #38580
12/27/08 12:08 PM
12/27/08 12:08 PM
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I read a lot of the posts and have to agree the the best way to determine the thinning of the paint and the rolling technique is to try it yourself. It is sort of something you get a feel for. My advice is to just go ahead and try it- better to thin than too thick...
Things I learned:
1) If it doesn't run on the vertical surfaces it is too thick
2) Better to apply it to thin than too thick
3) If it runs, then that's good and go over it again in a few minutes with a roller with less paint to pick up all the runs
4) When done with the paint session, go over the entire car again with the nearly dry roller to take out any runs- especially the places where the runs accumulate such as the door creases on the vertical surfaces
5) If you get any runs, then it is much easier to roll them out while the paint is wet than the sand them off when the paint dries
6) consistency of nonfat milk worked for me
7) best bet is to have thin paint, but very little on the roller (roll it hard on the tray 6-8 times until no more paint squeezes off) before applying to the car
8) use a new roller and foam brush for the edges with each
application
9) It takes me 60-75 minutes to roll my car each time, and I have to add a bit of mineral spirits to my tray every 15 minutes since it evaporates and gets to thick

Hope this helps!
My White Comet so far:

Marc's White Comet Project


Marc in SF
63 Blue Comet 260 Sedan- White w/blue stripes
Done using the "$50 Paint Job" method!
Re: How thin should the paint be? [Re: Mercurymarc] #38581
12/28/08 06:14 PM
12/28/08 06:14 PM

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Great post Marc. I haven't seen a better condensed version of how to do it in the whole 3 part thread. Did my Jeep over a year ago in Rusto Canvas White and couldn't be more happy.

quick question #38582
12/30/08 03:59 PM
12/30/08 03:59 PM

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Hey guys, I'm a long time reader of the thread and plannin on rollin my '74 Charger. And I was wondering if a primer (Rustoleum Primer) would be recomended considering I'll be replacing half of both quarter pannels, rockers, and a small patch on front fender. I'm going with a dark gloss forest green and wasn't sure how well it would cover without having a solid base coat of something.

Keep up this awesome thread guys!!

Re: quick question about primer #38583
12/30/08 09:11 PM
12/30/08 09:11 PM
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Not sure about a dark color like green. For white painted over my dark blue original paint, the primer makes a big difference (for rustoleum). The few places that I sanded through the primer take many coats of thinned white gloss to cover (6-10 coats) any blue that shows through.. It's a pain to keep painting the whole car again since a few spots have blue color fading through, but the benefit is that the whole car gets smoother and glossier with each coat. This is after 2 coats of primer and then 2 coats of glossy white rusoleum.
Good Luck!




Marc's White Comet

Last edited by Mercurymarc; 12/30/08 09:14 PM.
Re: quick question about primer [Re: Mercurymarc] #38584
12/31/08 12:33 AM
12/31/08 12:33 AM

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Ya thats what I was figuring too with the dark green, and I suppose since the car is already green it wouldn't be neccessary. Is the primer white?

Wow thats looking good! And thats only 2 coats!?
I'm keepin my fingers crossed that I have good luck with it ..looks like you are! haha Keep up the good work and thanks!

4911988-100_2674small.JPG (131 downloads)
Weather Question #38585
12/31/08 01:15 AM
12/31/08 01:15 AM

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It's cold here in NY and right now is the only time I'm gonna have to salvage my cars exterior till God knows when. So I wanted to know what process should I take when painting in cold weather like this? I have a garage but it's not heated.

Re: quick question about primer #38586
12/31/08 11:55 AM
12/31/08 11:55 AM
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Quote:

Is the primer white?



Yes- I used White Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer



Good Luck!

Marc's White Comet

Re: quick question about primer [Re: Mercurymarc] #38587
12/31/08 01:57 PM
12/31/08 01:57 PM
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This is the same stuff I used, too.

Re: Weather Question #38588
12/31/08 02:30 PM
12/31/08 02:30 PM

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Alrighty thanks,

And now that I think of it, looking a ljohnson's post about cold weather, is there anything that has to be done different in cold weather? Because I'm planning on painting this winter too, and considering I live in northern MN we woke up to a brisk -22F this morning. haha

Re: Weather Question #38589
12/31/08 10:54 PM
12/31/08 10:54 PM
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Quote:

It's cold here in NY and right now is the only time I'm gonna have to salvage my cars exterior till God knows when. So I wanted to know what process should I take when painting in cold weather like this? I have a garage but it's not heated.




Ok... just remember the whole theory behind the 'roll your own' paint job. We are thinning down the paint ( whether Rustoleum, Tremclad or Brightside ) to lay down very thin coatings. The mineral spirits that we add to thin the paint are what you can refer to as the 'carrier'. The thing about mineral spirits or other such solvents is that they EVAPORATE quicker in warm environments. And naturally... in colder environments the 'carrier' or mineral spirits evaporate slower in cold temperatures.

So what you need to do in a colder environment is follow the standard recipe for thinning your paint with mineral spirits BUT allow more time for the mineral spirits to evaporate before adding your next coat of paint...

Charger has previously shown pictures of his garage, in the midst of winter, with snow all around... and he was successfully painting even in a cold environment.

In some ways... as long as you have time and patience... it could work to your benefit. Because the other 'theory' involved in the 'roll your own' paint job is that when you apply the paint to the body panels... it attempts to 'self-level'. Obviously, the more the paint self-levels, the smoother and shinier the result. Or to look at it from the opposite way... in overly hot conditions... the 'carrier' or mineral spirit may evaporate faster then the paint can fully self-level itself. So as you can see... painting in the cooler temperatures is not necessarily a bad thing and if you take your time it could prove beneficial to the overall look of the project at the end.

Hopefully this gives you some insight in to the theory and helps answer your question about cold climate rolling.

And the nice thing about a car 'trapped' in a garage for the winter... is that it gives you an ideal situation to take your time between coats. You could probably afford to step in to the garage just once a week... do your painting etc.. and then walk away from the car and let the paint fully cure ( dry ) before returning the next weekend to do it again

.

Re: Weather Question [Re: Marq] #38590
01/01/09 08:13 PM
01/01/09 08:13 PM

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So I have to wait a week for the paint to dry? What's the shortest time I'd have to wait in cold weather?

Re: Weather Question #38591
01/01/09 08:52 PM
01/01/09 08:52 PM
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Quote:

So I have to wait a week for the paint to dry? What's the shortest time I'd have to wait in cold weather?




I painted my truck in the driveway two years ago, not real cold here low 50's at night, but it would warm up around 9 or 10 and I'd put coat on it, so over night worked for me.
Just don't get in too big a hurry.

Re: Weather Question #38592
01/01/09 09:03 PM
01/01/09 09:03 PM
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Quote:

So I have to wait a week for the paint to dry? What's the shortest time I'd have to wait in cold weather?




Well... one thing about paint... is that it has a different ( lower ) freezing point then mineral spirits. So the problem you face when trying to speed up the process in the winter is that although the mineral spirit may have evaporated... the paint itself may not have fully cured ( hardened ). If you lay down another coat of paint too soon ( over an un-hardened coat of paint ), the result will be the dreaded orange peel. That is why I was trying to take advantage of your situation, with a car stuck in the garage for the winter, to schedule the re-coats from weekend to weekend. That would practically guarantee that the mineral spirits will have evaporated and the paint itself will have cured sufficiently to allow painting over without fear of orange peel.

It may be possible to cut times down to every three days for a re-coat... but temperatures will be fluctuating from day to day.

Up here in Ottawa, we went from -24 degrees celcius ( bloody lip numbing cold ) up to almost a luxurious +10 degrees celcius all in the span of one week. And we are just getting in to our winter season. That kind of temperature variance would play havoc trying to guesstimate how many days you could wait between recoats. And to top it off... we have also been getting RAIN storms instead of snow storms. So that buggers up the humidity factoring for trying to guess how many days to wait between coats.

So overall... although it may pain you or push your patience... it is always better to err on the outside and give it more time between re-coats, then less.

I know for my final two coats... I actually and intentionally waited about 3 weeks between those final coats. I wanted to wait until the optimal weather conditions were present ( no rain or humidity )... and so I just kept holding off and waiting. And believe me... it killed me not being able to get the project finished. BUT I was more interested in nailing it right for those last two coats and I didn't want any of the 'enviromental' variable to be a factor in how it turned out. Mostly I was dealing with a consistently wet summer... but the same reasoning would have been applied in the colder part of the season.

One other nice thing about doing your paint job over the winter... and spacing out the re-coats by the weekends.. is that there is nothing to stop you going out to the garage on the Thursday to spend a couple of hours doing a very careful wet sanding ( in order to prepare the surface for the next re-coat on the weekend ). Since you are not being rushed, you have the luxury of doing the surface prep to perfection prior to the next re-coat. And that also helps allow for a better finished product at the end.

.

Re: Weather Question [Re: Marq] #38593
01/01/09 10:00 PM
01/01/09 10:00 PM

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I think I'm gonna have to walk away from this one till the weather warms up. I was planning on using my parents garage while they where out of town since they're completely against me trying anything like this.

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