After #2:

I'm still having a problem with the hood - needs more wet-sanding and power-buffing.

Thanks to everybody that helped me with this. When I first read this thread I laughed that someone would be stupid enough to paint their car with a roller and rustoleum. Now I'm a convert.

woohoo - stripes are rustoleum spray-bomb

gusteve, where you able to wetsand the stipes with the black as well? or did you have to mask off and only wetsand the stripes, after wetsanding the whole body?

If any of these home paint jobs is going to be at the nats or norwalk chrysler classic please say so (car year color etc) cause I would love to see some of these in person.

Thanks
Jeff

I finaly got around to finishing my sidecar and putting it all back together. I didn't like the first color i went with last year so this year i changed it. got it back together last week and took my kids for a 250 mile ride this weekend to a rally where I had lots of positive feed back. one guy kept going and grabbing others and bringing them by to see it he was so amazed. a quick wash today to remove bug guts and took some new pics. they are at the end in this album on my webshots page.

http://community.webshots.com/album/559630508GUGsFC

no polishing or waxing yet. last coat went on less than 2 weeks ago. the top is krylon fusion gloss black from a spray bomb. the middle is rustoleum charcoal grey rolled on...and the bottom was textured like bedliner stuff so i just sprayed that with krylon fusion satin black.

BTW that black charger looks great!!

Well I figured I'd get some more practice in and that red trunk lid that you saw a couple of posts ago,I painted it black.Now it's never going to be as nice as a base-clear job,but it's certainly good enough for a very nice driver if your willing to put the time in.

The only thing I did different besides sand a little more,is instead of using a foam roller I went with a velour roller as suggested.It cuts down on bubbles,and goes on very smooth.Just be careful because it absorbs more paint then the foam so don't press to hard when rolling or squeeze some out before painting.

It just needs a little more polishing,but I went through two 6" bonnets already.

I have "discovered" a new paint brand called Hammerite. It comes in smooth and also a finish called hammered. Looks like another interesting type of paint..Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

Suppose I want to mix a custom color on my own (with Brightside or Rustoleum)... I'm wondering about what type of measuring accuracy is required (and what types of measurement tools folks have used) to prevent visible color variations.

The situation I have is that I want to start out on a practice panel, but if that panel goes well, it is likely going to go on the vehicle. So, I'll be going all the way to the end steps on that panel. I don't want to mix up all the paint I'll need for the entire project at once. So, I'm trying to figure out what type of measuring accuracy I need if I mix the color in different batches.

As well, this would apply if I ever need to do repair work in the future on just one panel or one area of paint.

-- Dan

I'd make sure I used the same manufactures paint for the mix and mix enough to do the whole job.
Don't see where that would be a problem.
A few have tired for a metalic look but it didn't work out for some reason.

I've been using multiple 10ml syringes to mix up paint in small batches, it works really well as its easy to measure and make small adjustments to the quantity of paint.

However each syringe generally only lasts 4 plunges before the friction builds up on the sides of it and causes the rubber to pull off, but at <$1 each its not that bad! I mix it up in small glass jars just by shaking them for a bit

as stated, your probably best to mix up paints of the same brand/type to ensure compatibility. i've been using brightside paint and it mixes fine, and i've nearly made up my mind as to what colour i'm going to do after about 20 different variations!

-Evan

I got a little lost in this thread and I was just wondering has anybody figured out what to use for clear coat on the rustoleum? Is it possible to spray a automotive clear coat over it? I know the tremclad has a clear but has anybody found a alternative that works for the rustoleum? Thanks

I posted a while ago about painting a van silver. I am going to paint my car black, but the weather hasn't been good enough when I have time.
I haven't read the pposts since last time, so hopefully this is helpful! I just painted my 33 foot Winnebago silver. I rolled it on straight, until it started hardening, and added Interlux brushing liquid as needed. I'l put up "after" pictures later.

I did my van the same way, about 10 years ago, and the paint survived 5 wrecks, imcluding the one that ended the life of the van with flames. It never faded, or came off, and even stayed on the exhaust pipe, just as shiny as the rest.
It went on thick, of course, and the Orange peel looks like it would if I were a bug, but it levels out quite a bit. The paint is thick enough that I can buff it out. I buffed the van to the point that it burned my eyes (it got annoying). It reflects heat amazingly well, and seems to harden to a coat of aluminum. I'm going to buff at least one part, to show you guys, but probably not soon, since I'm taking this to the high Desert in about 1.5 weeks. This is the ultimate paint for this purpose.

Hi all! I am another that has been reading for some time and has not yet posted. I am in the Army and am stationed at Ft Hood TX. I just returned from Iraq in Jan 08. I picked up my '73 Charger from my dad's house and brought it here. Those old chargers run great, but the paint was gone. I got the same old $2k-4k song and dance and planned on saving up for it. One night I googled "cheap dodge paint job" though. At first I read the same old paint recomendations and then some crazy dude interjected that he painted his bad [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] looking car with a roller. It has been said many times before, but I was hooked at that point. I was so exited that I could not stop reading for days after that! Then I realized that this had started two years earlier! I am just catching up to the current posts.
I want to thank Charger first, then those that took it and ran with it and all those that have posted thier motivating results! You have motivated and given an awesome tool to myself and many other do it yourselfers.
I have limited time but will plst results as I can.
Would anyone give me some help on how to post pics- my attachments will not show up- are they too big possibly? - Thank you

First of all, thank you for your service. I also found this thread over a year after it started. Bringing my Jeep back to life after a 12 year sleep, it just needed paint to be looking and driving good again. No way I could even afford a $1000 quick spray. Now I've got the power of the roller in me. Here's the Jeep 16 months after I rolled Rusto canvas white. Be patient with the prep as everyone says. Took me about a month total to do 6 to 8 coats.

That looks like a very fun ride.

Regarding the Rustoleum silver and buffing it.. have you done that before? I know it's not buffing, but when I tried to wetsand that stuff it went all wacky, black and silver streaks everywhere.

Is there a trick to go around the edges and hard to reach places with the roller?