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Ugh...hair. I had my fair share in every coat too. I tack ragged, blew it off with air, washed it, yadda yadda yadda. You know what I did that I think finally made a difference? I cleaned the garage! I vacuumed the heck out of it, and then let the dust settle for a day before moving on to the next coat. It really seemed to cut down on the debris. Not that my garage was a sty to begin with, but every little bit of effort helps.

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I also swept my garage then everytime before I painted I sprayed the floor with water to keep me from stiring up dust and if any fell to the floor it would stay there. still had dust in my paint though!!

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I saw these devices on the MuscleCar TV show on Spike TV. I have no idea what they cost, but the portability is really cool.
http://www.islandcleanair.com/industry/auto.html

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You can also buy a cheap 20" x 20" box fan, and a few 20" x 20" furnace filters, tape the filters to the back of the fan, and set that close to your work. Have the fan blowing away from you, it will suck much of the dust and other air borne stuff away from the paint. not all, but what can you expect for $15?


Brew

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Hey HoosierSat, the Sherwin Williams stuff didn't turn out nearly as deep a color as I hoped. I actually took it back and tried to have them darken it up (and noting the changes) but it still didn't cut it. The paint seems great, and but I also found it really expensive. But who knows, it's long term performance might be better.

I do have a can of their SherClear product though, that I still might try out on some components, and maybe in the trunk. Stuff is from their marine/industrial line.

So... off to get some Sico, it was much cheaper, and for all intensive purposes this paint is all pretty much the same stuff. Alkyd Enamel paint with rust inhibitors.

I picked the darkest shade of purple from their chart and went for that. Of course it still didn't dry as deep as I hoped, but in the end, actually pretty much bang on to the photoshop I did of the look I'm going for. So I am pretty happy with it. Though, still in doubt I thought I might have found a darker shade on a CIL chart (took the ICI number to Sico, they mixed it..) but actually not as good as my first Sico choice. So I'm settled on, and happy with what you see here.

Half of this effort is to also get a paint color that I can have reproduced if need be, rather than mixing small batches myself every time -- or down the road if I need it.

Here's a pic of my front bumper so far - after getting enough coats on it I noticed the damn thing has some waves and twists from bangs and repairs -- not nearly the condition I thought I bought... so I might be taking it right back down again to fix them... but...you get the idea...

Car is a '71 Charger - going to be this colour with a white bee stripe (yeah, I know, it's a '71), black vinyl top, hideaways. I have two hoods and decklids, so I'm probably going to alternate between standard hood with a blower style scoop through it, and a bulge hood with a standard air cleaner underneath. One set will probably be blacked out, the other, probably the bulge combo, in purple.... idea will be to flip between an old school '70s look, and a slightly nascar-ish look with a wheel swap as well. TTOs for the old skool... indy slots for the other...

Anyhooo... all that is probably waaay more than you wanted to know, but that's why I am really looking for a good balance between the workability and a way to achieve really good results with this stuff.....

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No, I'm always glad to hear from a Mopar lover. The purple looks good on that bumper. I'm beginning a restoration/cloneing of a 74 Satellite Sebring (SS) and turning it into a Roadrunner with a slight bit of a twist. I photoshopped this together, and have after a million variations, came up with this: a 74 Roadrunner SS(SS, short for Satellite Sebring) LMAO, Dodge Rallye Green instead of the Lime or Deep Sherwood it originally came with (ugh), keeping the black vinyl top, blacking out the front valance and bulge hood with white stripes, a 74 Dodge Charger stripe with strobe variation, and gtx rallye stripes (black) on the trunk. Whaddya think? I've found a color that nearly matches what I want and I've ordered a candy green additive for the clearcoat. Am beginning this project after months of reading and researching!



I'm gonna try putting a metallic micro flake, emerald green 14 bucks, on the final basecoat, by dryblowing it on. I found an english site that sells compressed air cannisters you can load with metallic paint, about the size of a rattle can, and will experiment with that.

whaddya think?

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That Satellite's gonna be a VERY nice car - and an ambitious new step forward for this kind of painting!! Candy & Flake!! Good luck, and can't wait to see how it turns out.

One thing - isn't it more of a phantom than a clone? Unless there really was a Roadrunner SS that you're cloning...

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at the very least, a bipolar mopar. . . I like the idea of a Roadrunner SS one off, it pays homage to the satellite line which we all know was the base line for the Roadrunner, but still upgrades the car. I've tried to include a lot of historical Mopar touches, the running birds on the front fenders are an homage to the older 1st gen rrunners, the dodge stripe going from the bulge hood through the doors I think sweep well with the shape of the body and complements the full vinyl, which many of these cars have dumped. The strobes in the rear are a no brainer, I love the strobes over roof on the hardtops, so finishing it off with the strobes had to be there. I found a place on the net that will make an SS badge that will work with the roadrunner badge. The car is going to have a new Mopar 360 magnum and will be converted to a four or five speed manual transmission.

So, I ramble. . .I'm working on fixing the honeycomb grille right now, but will post pics as I finish the pieces! I figure a candy rallye green with emerald micro flakes is a natural progression. The black will be a gloss black, with black candy clearcoat and black microflakes, so you'll see that as soon as the front valance is finished.


p.s. what's cool about this thread is that the wife cannot object to me saving about 13,000.00 bucks in restoration/painting charges. My initial outlay so far just in supplies is 50 bucks, and the satellite I bought three years ago only cost me 700 bucks. So, this whole project will be on the cheap.. .which sits very well with the little lady!

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Hoosier, what are you planning on doing to that poor, poor satellite? I think you got a bit too much going on there, and the vinyl top does nothing for it, but hey good luck w/ it, will definitely be unique.

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but that was the seventies, over the top! There was even a Satellite Sunsomething or other. . .what was it called? Outrageous! Look at the Brady Bunch and their astroturf backyard! LOL!

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Could someone who's got more knowledge about this process and is more familiar than I am with all the info set down in these many pages help me out? I painted one car over the summer that came out pretty good, and sold it. I'm ready to try again on my bus that I will be keeping. I've read MANY (100's!?) of pages trying to find out what kind of paint (alkyl enamel, not marine poly) I can find that I can get tinted to particular color swatches. I read that one person was able to get Rustoleum tinted at a HD; my local stores won't. I found "XO Rust" locally with a limited range of colors they can tint to. Anyone know of any other options, other than experimenting with my own mixing of different colors I can get at the local store? Your help would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks

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As far as paint, I found that Ace Hardware has everything I need. Their Rust Stop paint is made by Sherwin Williams, is cheaper than Rust Oleum, and has a tintable base for custom color matching. Don't waste your time on the Ace website, it's not user friendly. Go in to their paint department, pick up a brochure on the Rust Stop paint, then find the most experienced sales agent in the department and talk to them. The first time I went into our Ace, I talked to a young kid and he kept telling me that there was no custom color matching on Rust Stop paint. It took an older sales agent to straighten him out.

Hope that helps. . .

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As far as paint, I found that Ace Hardware has everything I need. Their Rust Stop paint is made by Sherwin Williams, is cheaper than Rust Oleum, and has a tintable base for custom color matching. Don't waste your time on the Ace website, it's not user friendly. Go in to their paint department, pick up a brochure on the Rust Stop paint, then find the most experienced sales agent in the department and talk to them. The first time I went into our Ace, I talked to a young kid and he kept telling me that there was no custom color matching on Rust Stop paint. It took an older sales agent to straighten him out.

Hope that helps. . .

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That's just the kind of tip I was looking for.

Is Rust Stop the same kind of paint as Rustoleum, so it should have the same kind of longevity?
Thanks!

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I am on the 4th coat right now, and I am still not able to get full coverage, Is this normal?

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I am on the 4th coat right now, and I am still not able to get full coverage, Is this normal?

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Yes it takes 4 - 6 coats to get full color coverage, if you are thinning it enough. I wouldn't worry about that and keep going.

You will need to sand out the drips on the fenders, don't wait too long to address them or it will take a while to get them sanded smooth again.

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How much is the Ace paint, a gallon or a quart.

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80 grit is way to rough. the rougher the lower surfaces are the harder if will be for the paint to fill it in and get the layers smooth after every second one. i would at least get down to 320 for the initial layer before laying any paint.

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