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One more coat and then I'll spray bomb the door jams (uggh, 4 door) and think about compounding and polishing.

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Speaking of compounding and polishing, I could use some advice on doing just that. I take it you need to let the paint harden and dry completely, a few weeks. After that, what to use as far as rubbing compounds, polishes, waxes, dunno. I do recall some dunning(and justifiably so!) remarks and pictures of what Turtle Wax and a cheapo polisher will do for me. There's a bunch of Meguiars and Mothers stuff at local auto store, so if anybody has had good results with that, would like to hear.

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First of all I agree with the other poster who said read every one of Aussie Drivers post. He is a pro.

Secondly I've been researching my bum off through Autopia, North American Motoring, Meguiars Online, etc a whole bunch. I've actually contacted a detailer on these forums and he gave me a list of what products I should use on my Interlux Brightside Black. He works on black cars everyday so this process is proven.

I've gotten out to purchase a Vector "lookalike" 7 inch rotary polisher. I just need to pick up a backing plate, a wool pad, and some other foam pads once my funds come in. But I am confident that I can pull this one off. I will be learning on the fly, one panel @ a time.

I will be using these products in order.

1. Wetsand from 1500 to 2000 grit. (1500 you dont need if you dont have serious orange peel. I only have serious orange peel on my roof).
2. Meguiars #84 Compound with Megs Wool Pad
3. Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze with foam polishing pad (you need several passes with a polishing pad and finishing pad).
4. Desired wax. I am gonna be putting a glaze thats gonna pop the black color, and Meguiars #21 synthetic wax.

Once August 9th hits, it is going to be 2 months where my paint had time to bake.

I'll update and share my results. I put on 8 coats total on my little Civic. This is minus the wetsanding factor. I suggest for anyone to dump as much coats as possible so that when it comes time to polishing, you won't have problems burning through the color coat.

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nice orange.

i was wondering you guys... ive got a brand new body kit for my cav. im wanting to paint it using the roller method. how would i prep a unpainted fiberglass bumper? just roll it on?

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thanks marq... its actually pretty smooth to touch. has minor scuffs from shipping... ill prolly sand it down anyway just in case... what grit would you suggest?

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so im looking for 800-1200... hmm.

might start with 1200 wet sand. sound good?

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Would I be able to use this paint?

http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=305&SBL=1


I wanted to paint my car a Gloss Navy Blue but they only have it in this type of paint. I mean if its made for a boat, than it should be able to work on a car right?

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I think the initial problem with this paint is that it is a " modified alkyd ". Whereas the Brightside marine paint is a polyurathane and the Rustoleum / Tremclad shares most traits of an enamel.

Rustoleum isn't exactly the first name the rolls off the tongues of boaters when asked to name marine paints. If the boaters aren't discussing it... then that is a pretty good indication that it hasn't got wide acceptance or usage in the marine world.

One of the lads in this forum did an experiment with the Rustoleum marine paint and he found that even with careful surface preparation the paint did not get a good adhesion. It basically flaked off in patches at some point.

So I would shy away from that puppy...

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Looking at the condition of my car. Where do I start first? I'm planning on painting it red to make it easier. I want a dark red but not too dark. Which one do you guys think is better? carnival red or sunrise red?

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