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Okay something interesting came up. As you know I finished my Civic back on page 14 (June 21, 2007).

I've let my car soak in the hot heatwave ever since and today the 28th, I decided to give the car a wash because it was collecting lots of dust and had some bird poop on it.

Before I washed I noticed 3 poops on the car. One was on the hood, passenger door and drivers front fender.

Okay @ the end of my wash I noticed that the poop I thought was there was gone wasn't...The poop was indeed gone but I think the paint "flared"...Its soo weird. That spot looked like a small dent where you would use touch up paint. A small gash in the door panel.

I tried peeling the thing I thought was poop away. It moved. I think my nails scratched past the paint.

So weird eh? I hope I dont get anymore of these cracks...

After I finished I didnt think too much about it because I figure its gonna be gone once I wetsand the car...So it should be a thing of the past.

hmmm

Car is shiny again though after wash

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bird poop is really bad, basically you painted your car 8 days' ago correct??? It takes about a month before the paint is "cured" and i find after 3 months it's rock hard. Durring the first month, you should avoid leaving bird poo on the paint durring a heat wave, that's gotta be the worst thing you can do to any car that has just been painted!!!! bird poo can even ruin old auto paints in the conditions that you have, i had a pickup truck, 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton, and it was midnight blue, and a bird shat on the hood. I whiped it off about 2 hours later (it was really hot out) and the factory paint came right off, and it actually eched the primer under the paint. The right bird, and the right poo can really do bad stuff.

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Another question concerning the use of rustoleum primer. I'm going to use the primer because I have some bodywork to cover up, as well as a lot of rust and a couple different colors of body panels. My question is, do you thin the primer the same as you do the paint?

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Another question concerning the use of rustoleum primer. I'm going to use the primer because I have some bodywork to cover up, as well as a lot of rust and a couple different colors of body panels. My question is, do you thin the primer the same as you do the paint?

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Okay something interesting came up. As you know I finished my Civic back on page 14 (June 21, 2007).

I've let my car soak in the hot heatwave ever since and today the 28th, I decided to give the car a wash because it was collecting lots of dust and had some bird poop on it.

Before I washed I noticed 3 poops on the car. One was on the hood, passenger door and drivers front fender.

Okay @ the end of my wash I noticed that the poop I thought was there was gone wasn't...The poop was indeed gone but I think the paint "flared"...Its soo weird. That spot looked like a small dent where you would use touch up paint. A small gash in the door panel.

I tried peeling the thing I thought was poop away. It moved. I think my nails scratched past the paint.

So weird eh? I hope I dont get anymore of these cracks...

After I finished I didnt think too much about it because I figure its gonna be gone once I wetsand the car...So it should be a thing of the past.

hmmm

Car is shiny again though after wash

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bird poop is really bad, basically you painted your car 8 days' ago correct??? It takes about a month before the paint is "cured" and i find after 3 months it's rock hard. Durring the first month, you should avoid leaving bird poo on the paint durring a heat wave, that's gotta be the worst thing you can do to any car that has just been painted!!!! bird poo can even ruin old auto paints in the conditions that you have, i had a pickup truck, 2000 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton, and it was midnight blue, and a bird shat on the hood. I whiped it off about 2 hours later (it was really hot out) and the factory paint came right off, and it actually eched the primer under the paint. The right bird, and the right poo can really do bad stuff.

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Ah crap. I should have taken care of the car more then. I had no idea how bird poop could peel off paint. Darnit. I guess you live and learn. That was a new experience for me.

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Another question concerning the use of rustoleum primer. I'm going to use the primer because I have some bodywork to cover up, as well as a lot of rust and a couple different colors of body panels. My question is, do you thin the primer the same as you do the paint?

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I would go straight from the can. This will give you a sufficient build of a primer layer so that you can then do a very very light sanding to smooth the primed surface. Smoothest is bestest.. right.

You could go with an 800 or 1200 wet sanding on the primer layer - but be sure to allow the sanded primer layer sufficient time to dry out fully before laying your first coat of paint on it.

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Ahhh. I'm really glad the primer question came up. I've been puzzling over this too, since I have a lot of spot bodywork to do. I don't have any rust -- just some dents and dings.

So, given that, how would you guys rank -- or comment on -- the following options for spot bodywork / primering?

Preparation: Remove paint to bare metal, do metal work and bondo work. Now...

Option 1 : Spray a 2K primer with a Preval sprayer.
Questions: When I read about these products, it's always being discussed by professionals and they always default to 2 steps: First PRIMER then PRIMER/SURFACER. Is this necessary?

Option 2 : Roll on a primer specifically made for rolling such as PPG's or U-POL.
Questions: Sounds great at first, but when you read the literature, it looks like these are primer surfacers. They suggest applying an etch primer to bare steel first. Hmmm. Sounds like 2 steps and 2 different types of primer again... Or -- is my bondo coat the first (DTM) layer so I don't have to worry about this?

Option 3 : Roll on Rustoleum or Interlux primer.
Questions: Wondering it this stuff will work well over the bondo and not just soak in. As well, drying times will be longer (than the catylyzed options above) -- which make it a little more of a pain. Especially concerned about it not being fully dry or not drying properly if it sinks into the bondo which might trap solvents deep down...

Thanks in advance -- Dan.

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Honestly the easiest thing to do if you're only doing spot repairs (don't need to prime the entire car) is just to use a spray can primer. If you have a lot of deep sanding scratches, tiny pinholes in body filler, or other imperfections you can shoot it with a primer/surfacer and sand it smooth. Seems like most of the ones you find in a can are lacquer based so there probably won't be a compatibility issue with your Rustoleum. The Rustoleum primer in a gallon can is *extremely* high in solids, and takes a lot longer to cure than a spray primer. On the other hand, it covers like crazy . If you use it out of the can, you'll get full coverage in one coat (at least I have).

Over the years I've burned up a lot of rattle can primer, and my favorite brand now is SEM. You won't find it in many regular auto parts stores, but most shops that sell auto body paint and supplies will usually have their stuff. It's not super cheap, but it's really good stuff. I'm a really big fan of their self-etching primer. Their primer/surfacer is really good too. Everyone has their own favorite though...