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put a chain over a control arm to the concreate

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I'm glad you asked about mineral spirits. In this whole thread I never heard a caution about it but on the back of my can it says it's pretty bad stuff. Starting with, and I quote, "Danger! Vapor Harmful. May affect the brain or nervous systemcausing dizziness, headache, or nausea. Causes eye, skin, nose and throat irritation. Warning: Use of this product will expose you to benzene which is known to cause cancer and to toluol which is known to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm." It is also highly flammable. If you spray it use an approved respirator, etc. So, don't wash your hands with it, don't breath the vapor. Wear nitrile gloves and make sure you have lots of cross ventilation while using it in any manner.

Be careful out there!

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Actually... we have discussed the health effects of various paints and thinners. Usually the discussions centered on warnings related to the 'vapors' that are released into the air.

They key concept is to always ensure 'adequate' ventilation when rolling. When 'rolling' your paint... there is not as significant an amount of vapors released in high concentrations as compared to spraying. But nonetheless as the paint is drying and the 'carrier' is evaporating, the concentrations will increase. So if you are 'rolling' in the garage - leave the garage doors open enough to get fresh air circulating - don't seal up the garage.

But for the guys who were spraying... the key concept was 'lots of ventilation' and even wear a ventilator. You want to block the atomized paint/spirit particles from entering your lungs and you want to ensure a clean supply of oxygen ( so that you don't get stoned out of your gourd and destroy your brain cells ). The atomized vapors caused by the spraying release higher concentrations of 'nasty' things into the air. So you don't want to spray in a closed garage for example...

It seems that just about anything - if given prolonged contact with skin - may pose a threat as a carcinogen. Next time you go to put gas in your car, look around for the 'health warning' signs that they post around the gas pumps. Gasoline is a potential carcinogen. So the gas pump warnings usually advise against 'prolonged exposure of your skin' to gas.

I don't think during the course of 'rollering' your paint job that you purposely soak your hands in the paint or the thinner. The only exception being when you are wiping down the car body with a dampened cloth ( with mineral spirits ) while you are trying to remove any foreign material from the body prior to painting.

I guess you could slip on a pair of rubber gloves while wiping down your car body with the cloth and thinner. Or maybe you might go and wash your hands or rinse them off after you did the body wipe down.

But I didn't bother taking those steps. I guess my theory is that I am not leaving my skin exposed to a 'prolonged exposure' of the mineral thinner. And further... any mineral spirit that does come in contact with your skin is busily evaporating from the moment it first comes in contact. So I don't think it poses as much of a health risk... then say if you were doing a hundred cars a year using this method.

Let's take it a step further. Women's hair dye color products are 100% more carcinogenic causing then mineral spirits or paints. Yet wifey's around the world dye their own hair at home. Some use the rubber gloves that come with the hair dye boxes... and many do not bother using the gloves. Their risk is negated because they usually wash it off their hands after the hair dye is applied to their head. BUT look at the poor hair care salon where the hairdresser is exposed to potentially doing 10 or 20 hair dye jobs per week. They run a greater risk due to the increased frequency they are coming in contact with the hair dye solutions. So in the hairdressers situation it is more advisable to wear the rubber gloves.

Naturally the package warnings are also trying to warn the truly stupid that the product should not be ingested ( eaten or drank ). And that holds the most dire threat to your health. Do not drink any of these products and definitely do not eat a sandwich or burrito while your hand is soaked in mineral spirits.

Further with this safety aspect of the discussion - we have clearly stated that smokers should avoid smoking while wiping down their car with mineral spirits, while thinning their paints or while painting their cars. I don't think the cigarette is going to ignite the volatile vapors that are being released... but the lighter or match used to light that ciggy may ignite the vapors. BUT HEY... if you are smoking... you already are throwing your health fears to the wind anyhow and carcinogens from paint or mineral spirits may be the least of your worries ahhahahh... ( me smoke... me bad )....

In a similar vain... don't use a fire powered heater or have an open source flame in an enclosed area where painting is going on. That warning is probably more important to guys who are 'spraying' compared to the guys who are rolling ( because of the concentration levels involved ). Otherwise your garage and car may be the next thing docking with the space station..

One warning or paranoia that I would definitely share with everyone is how you handle your rags that are coated with paint or mineral spirits. Personally I fear 'instantaneous combustion' where improperly stored rags may 'self ignite'. I always put my used rags in a METAL CAN and at the end of a days work..... I take that can out of the garage and leave it outside ( safely away from anything that it might ignite IF the can and cloths should 'self-ignite'. This is a carryover from my youth when I saw 'linseed' oil soaked rags that would self-ignite ( usually after a couple of hours ). Now... I don't think mineral or paint soaked rags will self-ignite like that.. BUT just call me paranoid and take that little extra measure so you can sleep happily at night knowing that your garage is not going to burn down. The one positive thing about taking this extra step is that you are removing from your garage all the potential 'vapors' that the can of used rags would have released while it was drying and evaporating... ( hence reducing concentrations of vapors in the air when you return to work in the garage the next day ).

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Boy oh boy! Lots of mineral spirit talk.

I used it to wipe away foreign matter away from my car. I didn't use gloves but next time I will. Plus the vapor was there but I was wiping outside so I didn't really smell it fully, I was wearing a cheap dust mask...no respirator.

So what shall I do with the "dirty" new microfiber cloth that I used to wipe down with mineral spirits? I guess I should re-use it just for that wipe down purpose and then throw it away? I couldn't really clean it...I used soap and water and it got off some black out of the yellow cloth, but still is the same.

- Mike

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What you can do with your micro-fiber or even the real cloth rags is take a bucket, fill it with water and toss in some liquid dish soap. Sccccsh it around like the old days where they would wash their rags ( errm clothes ) alongside the river. Scrunge it up up, wring it out and then scoosh it around some more in the soapy bucket of water. Then when you have been able to release as much crap as possible from the cloth... rinse it off with your hose... and then wring out out like you are choking a chicken's neck ahhahha. Then hang it out to dry in the garage or anywhere where it will not fall down and land in the dirt. That is usually sufficient to get futher use out of the cloth once it dries out.

On one occassion I had about 30 cloth rags accumulated... and I was being lazy - - so I waited til they were all evaporated of their mineral spirits and tossed them in the wifey's washing machine hahhhaha. You would be surprised how many loads of wash after that 'experiment' ended up having a slight smell of mineral spirits on them... acckkk... the wifey figured out what I did. Don't do it.

But maybe if you had enough rags accumulated... you could take them to the local laundymat ( you know... that place where people who don't have washing machines go to pay some coins to wash and dry their stuff ). Afterall... you don't really care if your stink up the laundry loads of the other people who use THAT washing machine after you

Yeah yeah.. me bad...

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has anyone tried rattle can clear? and wetanded and polished it?? usually rattle can clear doesnt seem to be very glossy straight from the can, i was wondering how it would work out if we did a few coats and then polished it up just like the paint

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I will post up pics in a few minutes. BTW: I HATE DUST! We rolled it outside in the morning, it wasn't too windy. But by the time we were finished, dust stuck on to the paint...argh!

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Okay here are the pictures I have on my 1st coat. Please tell me what we can do better to minimize air bubbles and stuff in general that you see. Still looks way better than it did before. Interlux Brightside Black is really black!!

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If I remember correctly you need a second dry roller to "tip" the paint when you use Brightside. After you roll the paint on you go over it very lightly with a dry roller and it pops the bubbles and smoothes the surface. the "tipping" started with using a brush but I read somewhere back there that people were getting better results with a dry roller. Marq or 69DartGT might have a better idea though since they both used Brightside. With Rustoleum all I have to do is blow lightly on the surface of the paint and all the bubbles will pop, my Rusto is thinned 25%. Thats just my though, hopefully someone else might have some additional info for you.

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Just blow on the bubbles -- if you have a compressor, an air gun works awesome. (as suggested by the Hot Rod article)

After a failed first attempt, I have had really good success with laying down a first coat on a deck lid this weekend.

Used an air gun to hit the bubbles with -- straight down, 2 ft off, would flatten a 1/4 of the finish in one blast.

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Just blow on the bubbles -- if you have a compressor, an air gun works awesome. (as suggested by the Hot Rod article)

After a failed first attempt, I have had really good success with laying down a first coat on a deck lid this weekend.

Used an air gun to hit the bubbles with -- straight down, 2 ft off, would flatten a 1/4 of the finish in one blast.

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Will try that! We have a small air compressor.

I figure we just need to thin our mixture more like water. After a couple of hours now it levels out pretty nice, no roller lines. Some bubbles, but we'll sand down.

Before I paint, can I use mineral spirits to clean the paint again? It won't cut the paint correct?

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Marq:

Should I use the interlux 333 brush liquid to thin down the brightside prior to spraying? or would mineral spirits be just fine?

thanks!

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Do you guys think I can sand down with 2000 grit a couple of hours later? Its dry right now. Finished painting @ 12AM, and plan to sand at 7PM.

I should be fine right?

BTW: I'm gonna read up more in these series of threads to see what I can learn and do better about mixtures.

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Do you guys think I can sand down with 2000 grit a couple of hours later? Its dry right now. Finished painting @ 12AM, and plan to sand at 7PM.

I should be fine right?

BTW: I'm gonna read up more in these series of threads to see what I can learn and do better about mixtures.

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sup bro JDM BALLS from h-t here lol.. anyway with the orange peel u have on that coat 2000 isnt gonna do anythign for you, u should wetsand that with 600 or 800 to cut it down fast. u want to use 2000 only ON your final coat, before u polish.

did u finish painting at 12am midnight or did u mean 12pm noon lol.. if u meant midnight then 7pm should be ok, if u meant noon then no i would wait till the next day.

and yes, before every coat, wipe down with mineral spirits. it removes any oil from ur hands and any residue that might be left, just make sure u wait till its completely evaporated b4 painting. a good idea also is to keep a tack cloth handy and wipe each panel right b4 u paint it, to pick up any dust that might have landed.

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