Any chance you might go back to the part II thread and tell folks where to find this new thread? A link?

It took a bit of searching to find the new one.

Bob

I just recently joined "Moparts" and came across this topic. I started painting my car's under-carriage and engine compartment with "Tremclad" Black Satin with spray cans about 2 years ago and I want to finish it with the roller. It's been 4 years now, I Work Slow I am wondering if the Black Satin will Buff out like Satin or Gloss Also I was going to put on Silver Grey Stripes . I bought a can of Gloss Dark Grey and a can of Gloss Aluminum . Will the Two mix OK I guess I will find out One Way or Another

Hey everybody. I just got done making a site about this paint job process, it's

http://www.rollyourcar.com

I have a link to my picture gallery on there, if you have a gallery and want to link it please let me know where your pics are and I will make the link.

I'm not selling anything there, just giving info on the process, so hopefully people don't continually ask if they should use primer, or what to thin with

There are links there back to all 3 threads here. In the future I will update the polishing section and maybe make more of a FAQ, but that would entail going through these threads and finding stuff which will take time.

Dave

EXIT, Great Job!!! Site Looks really good.
Already a "favorite".....

Very quick update. Here is my Triumph TR4. Still needs more wetsanding and buffing, but it's getting there. Thanks to all for your help. Will post more pics when I have time.

Sweet TR 4. I love them. Had three or four TR4A IRS's.... ( one of which I dropped a Buick Turbo V6 with an automatic and shift kit into).

And I love the wires. Is that an older one with the painted dash or the 'real burnish walnut wood' dash ?

arg, i cant figure out how much to thin the paint! Im getting tons of bubbles and runs! I think its too thin, after 3 coats it isnt even coming close to covering up the primer exct. It just looks like its been tinted



you can see all the bubbles, and in the top right corner you can see all the runs

Everything seemed to be going so smoothly on my test piece, two coats 600, two coats 800, two coats 1200(couldn't find 1500) and then a final once over with 2000. Ahh! finally to the buffing stage. It was then that I realized something was terribly wrong. When I went to buff it out I was burning through the top layer of paint and the difference from that and the next coat down is highly visible. I'm thinking my coats must be far to thin. I thinned my paint around 40% and was "wetting" the surface on each coat but the coats were so thin I burned right through them. Marq, Exit, Charger, Dart...Anyone got a good idea of how I can get a thick enough coat so that I don't wetsand through it?

New Air Grabber assembly restoration on a budget, Rustoleum Anodized Bronze Semi flat paint 3.99, Silver paint pen to paint rivets 3.99, no.12X1/2" screws 1.69 plus, the repop rubber parts and sticker. Still cutting and fitting the fiberglass base plate for the air cleaner.

Painting the rivets, these pens are trick for this kind of work

Exit, Great Site, Do you think Tremclad Alumimum and dark grey will mix properly

Hi all,

I have been reading through this thread for about a week now, having linked to it from www.vwt4ownersclub.co.uk Big thank you to all for the great info!

I have been wanting to get my van painted for a couple of years now, but never seem to have the cash, I have now decided to scrap that plan and have gone and bought a couple of tins of black Brightside!

It will take me a while to prep but I will post pics as I progress. BTW I have found myself checking out random cars in traffic and can't believe how rubbish the factory paint jobs can be.

Have just done a test patch with the Brightside, really easy to work with even straight from the tin, no orange peel and tons of gloss. My optimism is rising!

do they sell rustoleum clear coat in 1gal. or qt.? if they do, where can i order it online ?

Some guys on the previous thread found this...

http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=219&SBL=2

and this

http://kscdirect.com/category/1000052/1007322/

scroll down and you'll find it.

However, if it has been tryed yet, results have not been posted yet....

Thanks to all that have made this a great read

I started reading this last year and got serious about rolling my truck about a month ago....since then I bought some Brightside "ocean blue", pre-kote primer and some penetrol...mixed up a batch thinned with about 20% penetrol and a dash of regular mineral spirits and have two coats on my two front fenders. The results blew me away....

It layed down easily and had about a million bubbles....I started to get worried, but continued with the whole fender and then went over it with the second dry roller....badda boom...they were gone!!! Very little orange peel and smooth as a babies behind. Wet sand with 600 or 800 is next on the list...pictures to follow.

So, I have this grill that after 200k miles is sandblasted to hell and dinged, but I'm too cheap to buy a new one.

So I figure I'd just sand it smooth and use some rattlecan rustoleum "chrome" finish with a shot of clear over top to give it that "mock chrome" look when I notice on the can of rustoleum clear it says specifically not to use over the "Chrome" OR RUSTOLEUM AUTOMOTIVE paints!

Just thought I would pass that on...

I ended up using their silver finish with the clear - it is specifically mentioned as compatible on the can - It isn't chrome, but it does look better than it did.