how did you spray clear? on new paint(rustoleum) after flash time, or on old paint? new paint waited 24 hours to clear

i was thinking that you cant paint rustoleum clear over rustoleum enamel? so how is it? it has an orange tint to it so if it is a dark color it makes it darker than it is. i wouldnt paint on white color though it will turn it orange.

how many coats ? 2 coats so far went on thick so 2 might be enough

can you take pic of clear can ?

On my second coat now and what I find strange is my first coat went on beautifully and now the second im having a few problems, when painting im getting streaks of paint coming of the edge of the roller, as if it builds up on one side and then falls out this doesnt fully dissapear no matter how much I roll over it after. So it leaves roller marks.

Also when I apply mineral spirits on the paint to try to help it level out it sometimes takes the paint straight off leaving a strange rough patch.

Anyone able to explain either? Ive been using 10% mineral spirits to the brightside (20ml mineal spirits, 180 brightside) also tried increasing the amount of mineral spirits to no avail.

Thanks Marq youre right I wasnt letting it cure I thought since it dried after a few hours I could paint again, big mistake i guess!

I was probably also leaving too much paint on the roller.

Also how long should one wait before wetsanding after having painted, 24 hours? Then how long to let the car dry after having wetsanded and cleaned the car?

Should one avoid painting when its raining because of the increased humidity in the air?

The budget paint job on the TR4 is far from finished, but I am taking a break from wet sanding etc, so I can actually get driving. I will continue to work on it through the Summer to improve on the quality. 1st classic car show this weekend and I am interested to see what the reaction will be to a roller painted car.

thats pretty. i miss my tr6's and tr8

I would bet that if you don't tell anyone that its a roller job that few if any would be able to tell. At least that's what I am finding with my friends and neighbors. My car's paint is still very thin, but no one even suspects that it is rolled. They wonder how I can take a break between coats.

Gerbs

I haven't rolled my car yet(still doing body work) but based on how my test piece came out in comparison to a couple of brand new black Fords here on the lot. I'd say they will definately be able to tell the difference since my rolled on paint looks 10 times better than that factory orange peel crap!!

Spent about a week reading up on this and tested a small patch on a fender. It's Rustoleum gloss sunburst yellow mixed with mineral spirits (odorless) This is after 4 to 5 thin coats. I let it cure in the hot sun yesterday and it dried alot quicker. Bubbles stopped forming after about the 3rd coat. Anyone try this color out yet? I'm considering painting my 280z. Anyone use this color yet? I might try the Interlux paint.

here's a better pic. I still have to wetsand and add couple more coats.

Rolled her out into the sun, the satin black looks better out of the garage

I can not recall, did you end up color sanding that at all?
Or did the satin just lay down that smooth?

From what I can tell of the pictures you have posted I am thinking no-one here in the shop would believe it was not shot.
Gotta love the 69's next to my 66 fastback, they are my favorite.

No, I did not wet sand, Just layed down 2 thin coats. In places where I had roller marks, I just kept going back over it until the marks blended out. I used the low odor mineral spirits which dry alot slower so you can re-work the whole car for like 15 minutes, using medium-thin paint.

As an aside, I have touched up a few spots on the edges with spray can satin and it blends right in with the rolled satin.

was the spray cans the stuff with the patio furniture on it?
I am sure some are wondering as it was asked earlier.

Yes, the white can with the patio furnature on it.

After 3 weeks, it is really hard now, I banged it with a ratchet yesterday and didnt scratch at all.

For MYBUICK, GFEIGHNY, and other present and former sprayers,
(Subject:1994 Chevy Caprice)
Like Mybuick, I was never completely satisfied with the roller method. I painted a test fender and my garage entry door and I am confident that the roller method can work if you have the time to make it happen; however, my subject is a daily driver and I will only have a week to dismantle it and paint it.

Motivated by the following statement found in part II of the thread:
“The sprayed portion was completely hard in a day or two while the rolled on parts took about two months to reach full hardness.”
-Trent

I’ve got a full face respirator, a small 30 gallon 1.5 HP compressor and a HF touch up gun, model 46719-1VGA with 1.0 mm tip, a porter cable buffer with assorted cutting and polishing pads.

Questions:
1) Is one week enough time to properly take everything apart, spray it, buff it, and reassemble it?
2) Should I build a DIY booth? I was thinking of covering the floor and walls with plastic, mounting 2 fans high pulling air in, and 2 fans on the ground pushing air out – all using AC filters. Is this overkill?
3) The car is black, the primer I used to cover the repaired areas is black and the new paint will be black, how many sprayed coats will be required?
4) When spraying, did you sand after each coat? If so, what grade paper did you use?
5) It looks like 3 parts Rustoleum Professional and 2 parts regular mineral spirits is the correct mixture – right?
6) This was asked in part II, if I’m going to spray it, should I use a different paint? (I’m sure there are many options, but I would like to stay within a reasonable budget.)

Any other hints and tips about using an HVLP gun and spraying method would be greatly appreciated.