I'm thinking about going the six-pack route and need to know. What's the difference in carbs between the 4sp & auto? Is it the linkage or are they different carbs? This would be for a SB set-up.

Besides numbers stamped on the air horn, and the manual carb having 5, yes 5CFM more than the auto carb,....not much



Don't be fooled into thinking the 440 carbs are a better choice, they flow the same 1300 CFM as the 340 carbs, except the 340 end carbs are quicker to respond to demand because of their air bleed orifice size.....do your self a favor, buy new carbs, not used junk,.....buy 2 Holley secondary assorted spring kits, disregard the instructions,....install the white springs in the outboard carbs, the new carbs will come with black/brown springs ,......if the white springs prove to "violent" an opening rate, step up to the yellows......if you search Moparts, I wrote up a rather long sixpack tuning post sometime ago, perhaps another member may have saved it?

Is this it?
I've been running six pack inductions for about 30 years now, sm blk, big blk, and even the custom 6 pak cast HEMI intake manifolds that I made for the 71 wingcars,.....I don't have anything but, sixpack cars,,,,,,,,I've rebuilt countless numbers of carbs, along with countless installations and tunings,....when there are troubles, it usally due to someone unfamilar with there tuning or functions, or attempts at trying to improve them,......which usally results in "problem" carbs, starting, stalling, flooding issuse!.....seeing your have "new" carbs/ set-uo,....I'd recommend you use a Carter street pump, don't use rubber hose, it's problems down the road!, use a factory style/ repro steel, or stainless steel fuel line kit,a good quality hi flow fuel filter, AFTER the pump!, not before!, you'll restrict the fuel flow, Factory style linkage, no junk progrssive/ mech linkage!, change out the brass side float screw on the fuel bowls (all 3 bowls) with Holleys clear sight plugs, this way you can see your float level, and no gas spills trying to adjust, their like $4 each,.....when setting the fuel level, I've found that it's best to bring it up to half the height of the clear sight plug, (can't do this with the brass sight screw!, unless you have X-ray vision, hence the need to install the clear plastic sights).....plus "if" you ever have a starting problem, just shaking the car side to side will slosh the fuel in the clear site, and you'll know wether or not you have fuel in the bowl,....after you have basically installed the set-up, and started the car, and set an acceptable idle after warm up, with the engine running, set the floats, start with the center carb, the slotted screw on top of the float adjuster, is just a lock screw, you can remove it for now, the 5/8" nut is the adjuster/needle seat nut, rotating it counter clockwise will raise fuel level in the bowl, clockwise will lower it, make small 1/2 turns let the car run a bit, check the fuel in the clear site window, half the window is ideal height, esp. in the front and rear carbs, when they dump in, you don't wanna lean the engine, which on a sixpack car, might "melt" a piston or two!....really!, been, there, done that!....after you set the fuel level in all 3 carbs, reset the idle on the center carb, by disconnecting the linkage on the end carbs, if your using an idle solenoid, make sure it's energized in the up position contacting the center carbs solenoid idle arm screw, set the desired idle, that keeps your car running, factory specs are a guide line, your cam, vacumm, etc, will affect your desired RPM range, after you establish this idle, this is what your car will run with, now de-energize the solenoid, using the idle srew located on the ceter carbs main throttle shaft, set the idle to a bare minimum running idle, this is were your throttle shaft will close down too when you shut off the car, and the idle solenoid de-energizes, if later you have shut down problems of the car desieling, (sputtering run on after shut down) keep lowering the idle screw on the center carb main shaft, untill this is condition is eliminated, the idle solenoid was added to maintain an idle, and allow the throttle blade to choke off the engine on shutdown if needed, when it de-energized, after your center card idle is set, now comes the fun, start the car, in idle, the front and rear carbs are still disconnected at their main throttle linkage, (important note: make sure no vacumm source is hooked up to the front and rear carbs when main linkage is disconnected, cause any reving you may do, might tip in a end carb! with vacumm!, and if you can't shut it down in time, you might lose an engine!....seen it done!)to properly set the fuel/ air mixture idle screws, start with the center carb, hook up a tach.......warmed up, good idle (low)....turn the fuel/ air mixture screws (2) located on each side of the center carb metering block, do one at a time, run it in slowly, until the engine begins to stumble, slowy back it out watching the tach needle, stop when you've obtained the highest rpm reading,....you can also do this with a vacumm gauge attached to MANIFOLD vacumm, I like to use both at the same time, ...repeat the process for the other side, when done, now re-do-it, again, just to confirm settings, now some of the end carbs, have their fuel idle screws "plugged" with lead, they are located in the base, in the front of the carb base plate, under the bowl, if plugged, dig out lead plug, most people think ones for fuel, ones for air , their not!, you'll adjust these screws just like the center carb, except you can't just use a vacumm/ tach gauge,....look into the top of the front end carb, you see 2 small projections in each bore on each side, just below the neck, these are the air bleeds, block off the outer bleed using your finger over the small tiny hole, with the motor running at idle (low), it should stumble or pick up in idle, when you block off, either outboard bleed, set the front carb first, pick a bore, left or right, with it's coresponding baseplate idle screw, block the bleed off with your finger,(make sure the carbs throttle plate is fully closed) do one side at a time, when you block the bleed, if the idle increases, too much fuel, remove your finger, turn the base screw on the side your blocking the bleed on, in, one turn, block the bleed again, listen for the idle, (you could use a tach gauge at this point), if it stumbles/ decreases, no fuel, back the base screw off a half turn, block the air bleed again see where the "idle" is,......keep adjusting in this fashion until there's no change in idle, no increase/ decrease, you now have the ideal fuel/ air ratio for the vacummm requirement on your motor, complete this for both sides of the front carb, shut off the motor, disconnect this carb remove it, re-install it in the rear,....install the rear carb, now in the front, adjust this carb like you did to the last one, after you hook up everything, now here's when most guys will balk at this move,....they'll insist the air/fuel mixture won't be 100% by moving the tuned front carb to the rear, well if your truly familiar with the sixpack set-up, you know getting to the rear carbs base screws is fustrating to say the least, unless your squeezeing every ounze of effeciency out of the motor, this technique is far better than leaving the factory setting/ lead plugs in, with is usally a lean set-up,,,,,,, after setting this relocated carb up, if you wish you can "play" trying to "tweak" the rear carb, this may include a round of removal the "tweak" the screws to obtain that last ounze of "tuning", I've yet to see a "tool", truly capable of fitting into the installed rear carbs "idle screws"......anybody?,

Well, when your "done" setting the air/ fuel "idle" mixtures on the end carbs, connect the end linkages, to the end carbs, do it with the idle solenoid energized, the rods are threaded were they join together on the center carb, they install on the end carbs with rod clips, there is a F/R or left?right handed clip, energize solenoid, do the front carb first, make sure the linkage is pulled far forward on the center carb secondary rail, thread the rod, in or out, until it fits nicely in the hole, then proceed to the rear, repeat this proceedure, now check the linkage for any binding, you should be able to chrack open (engine off!) the center car, WOT, and manually open both carbs by rotating the front carb throttle arm, close the center carb, check all linkage for binding, readjust if needed, now de-energize the idle solenoid, see if any bind is preventing the center carb from closing on the main throttle shaft idle screw, you may have to comprimise on some idle/ and or end carb linkage adjustments to have an ideal, functioning set-up, but once you take the time to do this, you'll appreciate your efforts!,....as far as altering the end carb secondary springs in the vacumm pods,.....I like a sixpack to come in quick,....you'll have to buy 2 sping kits, replace with the "white" springs if you want a quick responding set-up,....if you what a mid range set-up use the "yellow" springs,.....any thing in the brown or black range is worthless.,,,,,Hell I could write a book here, I probally have, if you have any other questions, PM me.......I wrote this for others, to utilize as well,.......

Why yes it is!....Thanks Joe

I hope you don't mind but I copied this info into a word.doc for future use. I'm currently starting a project and I'm still deciding components and obviously carb/intake choice is an important one so gathering info is a must. Thank-you

Jim, like anything on the NET, it's there for you to use,....goodluck, hope it helps,.......Thank Joe for saving it

I save most everything that I think will help me in the future. Photos, websites, tech info, dyno results, ect. Most has helped me save time and lots of money, tho some have came after I had to learn from expensive mistakes. I have a folder full of photos of different 6-packs, associated parts, and tips/tricks. My 1st 6-pack was a nightmare (had several built in problems from several previous owners) that I had all my buddies give me good (not ) advise on, and I have learned alot since then . I try to pass on some of it when I can to help others enjoy them rather then replace with "New stuff." I never was a parts replacer , and try to figure out what exactly is wrong before changing parts out.
This due in part to never having enough money, LOL!

Looking at those pictures I see no laughing matter!!! That hidden NOS system is killer, would have someone crying like a baby or turning white as a ghost depending on where they were sitting.

You know, that setup was on my first (Used) 6-pack I owned. I never even filled the bottle before getting rid of the intake, carbs, air cleaner, linkage, coil bracket, throttle bracket and cable, and 250 hidden NOS kit-for $2,000 in 1988. Had so many problems with it and 1) didn't know what it was doing, & 2) didn't know enough about them to fix them. At one time, I even tried a progressive linkage to overcome the outboards opening. Had a huge boog if you dropped the gas pedal, but was drivable if you slowly got into the outboards. it run good, but still had problems when it was sold. Second setup run good out of the box, but by then I knew a lot more about holleys, and got it dialed in quickly, within the first weekend it was on. After the first weekend, it run like a raped ape! Both setups were on the same car, 73 340, 4 speed, 3:55 rear, as in my profile.

Wish I had that car back now, but it's sitting beside a barn in Missouri, and the guy says "Me and my son are going to fix it back up and put it on the road." Been that way for over 8-9 years, and hasn't moved 20 feet from where it is now. The bottom of the car is starting to rust out pretty bad from the tires and wheels sinking into the ground, and the floor pans sitting on dirt, drawing moisture all year round. Last year, I offered $2,000 and a 1996 black Cavalier Convertible to him, but he insisted he was still going to fix it. Right now I'm putting together a 71 Demon, but it's far from going on the road. It will be a 360/408 with a sixpack on it. I have 440 carbs I bought on E-bay, but still on the lookout for a decent set of 340 carbs. I would like (LOL) to trade someone straight up, but don't think I'll ever fall into a deal like that. Until I get the body closer, I'll just have them sitting on the intake looking pretty.

Here's a pic of my setup now sitting on a stand...It's on a 98 "roller" engine. Have a list of parts I'm picking up 1 piece at a time but with economy as it is and no OT, its hard to justify all the $$$ at one time. When I get enough parts together, I'll send the block out with the stroker kit, and have the heads drilled for the LA intake/bolt pattern. Trying to do all the manual labor/work I can do, before farming out all the rest.

Allright... a sixpack on a cordoba?? way to go!!! Great minds think alike!!!! I am going 451 low deck... TBF

Actually the six pack will be for my 68 Barracuda. My son and I stumbled on to a notchback with no engine and a 4sp set-up. Since it will never be original we plan to have some fun on the street and the Six-Pack looks impressive when you open the hood as well as running impressive when you open the throttle. At least once its set-up right.