My Challenger has been 2/3 painted for almost 2 years. The body work has mostly been done and the front clip is all that really needs the primer, paint, and clear coat done. All the guys I've talked to still want about 2k just to paint the front clip. This sounds pretty spendy, so I have been thinking of doing it myself. I have a compressor, the paint and time - is there any black magic to this stuff?

i have been painting professionally for 9+ years now and would just now start to consider myself "good" if you want it to look good and have never painted before i would get some practice. u dunno man you might get lucky...to many variables...i still eff up a paint job every now and again. good luck whatever you decide

Lots and lots of practice. Start out with small
parts like doors, hoods, trunk lids. Over the
years we have used PPG, Dupont, even the Napa
crap. Now we only use House of Kolors single
stage and it's just as good as a base clear.
Then if you want, you can still put a clear on
for the deep ocean look. We've painted about
5 custom Harley's with just the HOK single
stage and never needed any clear.

I've done a couple cars and a couple bike tins in the past, none of the cars turned out anywhere as good as I would have hoped. You need a ton of patience to get the prep done right before you actually apply the color.
The bike tins were a lot easier IMO, much smaller and easier to stay consistent on the smaller surface.
I echo the advise that if you're gonna do it, you'll want to prep and paint several test panels (including the biggest hood you can find) before you touch your car.

the base is not too hard, the clear is the tough part. really need the practice and learn how to hold the gun to spray even and level at the same distance.

also is this solid color or metallic?

it is taking 5-7 coats with base with the new paints, as they use a lot of binders (clear base)

I agree with psycho 440..........and will ad do not be afraid to try it, but get as many videos/books/whatever on the basics. If you have never painted then base/clear is very tricky to learn on, because so many things can go wrong. However, given the newer user friendly clears on the market, the great advice (here) if you are not afraid to ask, and plenty of homework, then yes, you could do it yourself. You will need to practice though, there is no way around that. A hood is best, as suggested above. After 20 years I will say that I still love painting, but after 100 or so cars it still is not an easy task. Good luck, hope you get the finish you desire!

Agree with Psyco and 4B:

I've painted a lot of door jambs, under hood areas, inside trunks etc., and it looks "OK", but I would want the exterior of the car to look better. I never have managed to get that perfection that a pro can get.

Some people have natural talent when it comes to painting, and some do not. I'm one of the latter. You might be great at it, or you might find out that your talents lie elsewhere.

Jim

I would have to disagree with the others and say a base/clear is actually easier than a single stage in that you can put the base on pretty dry (easier for a beginner) which allows you to get a uniform coverage even with a metallic. Then as a newbie, you are bound to get some runs or sags in the clear if you are daring enough to try for a good gloss or if you are more conservative and tend to "dry it on" or orange peel it, You can always block out the clear and buff it. With a single stage metallic if you sag it you will need to block it flat and respray because the pigment and flake will be evident where the sag or run was. so in my opinion Base/clear is more forgiving for a new recruit. Just take your time on the base coat and put on as many conservative coats as it takes to get coverage (don't be concerned that it doesn't shine, it won't no matter what you do. after the base dries it's flat.) Your gloss is all in the clear (this is where i would concentrate my efforts in practicing) Horizontal is the easy surface, vertical is where you will sag or run it. practice on something with a pronounced body line like your Challenger fender has (that's where you will sag it) But not to worry, just make sure you have enough material on there (and you most likely will if it was enough to sag)so you can block it flat then buff it. You said you have the paint already so for the $2000.00 you are saving you can buy some nice tools like an HVLP gun, sanding blocks and a nice buffer and compounds that can be used time and time again, plus you'll have gained the experience to do your own paint work when you need to fix that door ding some careless dope puts in your pride and joy. Be assured, it takes a little knack to get it right the first time but it's not "Rocket Surgery" and you really can't screw things up so bad that it can't be redone. So I say, Go for it man and keep us posted to your progress. If I can help you out in any way let me know. Any questions, PM me.

What color??

If its a non metallic just do single stage. Cheaper and you can color sand and buff it without changing it.

Metallic, go base/clear for reasons outlined above.

In either of these instances, runs, sags dust nib etc can all be worked out post painting.

If you are not painting in a professional booth don't try to get a perfect finish out of the gun, think of it as just laying down an even coat of material to work with later, because you will have to.

As a backyard bodyman, the best advice I can offer is follow the instructions.

you will spend the money trying to do it yourself,more to it than a compressor and paint, but you will get an expensive education. need to use the paint the car is partially painted with regardless of which one is easier{your going to have a hard enough time matching as it is}. there are so many little items that will eat your money up, primer, gun, respirator, water trap/regulator,solvents,place to do it{is it safe} etc, etc.but on the other had you will have a small idea of what it takes.i've been painting for over twenty years and i still learn something new with every job.

Base coat is easy to apply and make look good sure, but clear coat takes a lot of practice (it is harder to see lay down while spraying, for one thing) and sanding runs out isn't as easy as people in here make it sound. You can usually tell where they were, and if you have quite a few of them you won't be happy with the time spent fixing them. A single stage metalic is still the most challenging, I agree, but this guy has no experience, and without knowing what to do when problems happen DURING the paint job he could be screwed. As asked above, what color are you painting it? A solid color would be a great way to learn.

Here is a few more details...The car was started by a shop that closed down and I was happy that I got all of my parts back. The paint is DuPont Chroma Premier and the color is Prowler Purple that seems to be a bit darker than I remember the color on the Prowlers. I will take a few photos tonight, so you can see what has been done. I am gifted with the spraycan (if that means anything ), but with the cost of the paint really don't want to screw it up. I still have a half gallon of paint and the stuff you mix it with left, but will have to buy more clear...

I would have said yes you can do it- til I see what color it is. Dark- metallic flake is not for a first timer- bring it to a shop- or have a friend that knows what they are doing help you-

What the worst that can happen?

You have to sand it down and start over?

I'm all about trying something and doing it until I get it right.

Until I seen the colour I was going to advise to try it too. But I wouldn't with that colour. Even a pro may have to paint the whole car to get it to match.

Sheldon

I would still say DO IT! I agree with GY3. People are making this sound like it's terrible hard to paint..... You say you're gifted with a spray can, Well, the technique is much the same just a much wider fan spray and better equipment. As for the color match, You are using the same paint so there should be no difference in pigment the only real variable is the way the flake lays down. and unless the same guy shoots the front as did the back, you cant say even an experienced guy can really do better if he doesn't know the exact conditions of when it was sprayed before. If you are really afraid of a mismatch because of your "newbie technique", Do a blend into the doors. That's a nice long panel to do a gradual blend that would never be detected by anyone. If you can lay down a respectable looking finish with a rattle can, I am confident you have the ability and understanding of how paint builds and lays down enough to shoot your own car (with some practice) You said you have a half gallon of paint left. If it is not reduced yet, you have a gallon of sprayable paint. You should be able to cover the entire outside of the car again with that much color. DuPont Chroma products are very nice to work with (It's my preference)So again I will say it, practice laying up some clear and give it a shot! And to answer your question, NO there is no black magic to this stuff just a little technique. The more you do the better you'll get.

Here are some pics of what needs to be done. The hood is not in the pictures because I need to order it still...

Nother...

Again...

Here is a little metal work to be done. The guy forgot to fill the hole above the battery tray and weld the bracket in the tray on the passenger fender...