Wondering what the average rearend and wheel width is on a tubbed b body. Also wheel back space. I picked up a 66 belvedere with an 80% completed tub job and no rearend and am trying to figure out what way to go. Was watching Fanelli on You Tube and he took out 5 1/2 inches per side on his 67 Coronet. I was searching around on the net and found back in the day you could get a shortened dana 60 over the counter from Direct Connection. But I never seen an actual width measurement of them.

Once modifications are made, there is no “typical” or standard. No one else will be able to tell you what the dimension should be with any level of accuracy. I mini-tubbed my 67; I started with the wheels and tires I wanted to use, set them in place with the car on blocks, and measured. That’s my suggestion.
Anything else is likely to have you spend a bunch of money only to end up with something goofy looking.

I agree.
Get a set of mock up wheels and tires. I build the car around the wheels and tires.

Are you talking 4 Link Ladder bar or just moving the springs into the frame rails, I moved my springs in and then ordered my wheel and tires and Dana at 48 1/2 I have 29.5 x 11.5W x 15 Hoosier and the outside carcass width is almost 14in wide and I still have 3/4 of an in of clearance on the wheel lip and the frame rail. 12in wide Pro Drag Weld wheels with a if I remember correctly a 5 1/2 on the back spacing. 67 Belvedere

The best way I've found is to buy the wheels and tires and then make everything around them work...

That said the backspace you order on the wheels will determine what needs to happen...

Some guys like a deep looking wheel with minimal backspace which ends up in a shorter housing and axles...

The wheels I bought for mine are 17"x11" and have a 7 1/2" backspace...

I can remove them and replace them with any other wheel and tire that has a 3 1/2"-4" out space...

Basically making the car not look like it has been back halved..

Most cars no-a-days just run little tires. Its like nobody tubs a car anymore....Its nice to see a big tire car now and again.

So, most wheel & tire combos for big tire cars offer wheels with the offset of about 1/2 the total width and they will vary it from there a little each way...This way, the center of the hub is near center of the wheel. Large offsets can weaken a wheel.

But, if your ever going to run small tires, you want to find an offset that works for both and leave the axle a little longer....Make the car as versatile as possible. Helps re-sale value and finding a class to fit in.

As advised above, buy the wheels and tires first...Then set up the rear end and tubs.

It really depends on the wheel choice as well as things such as the suspension and brake combination. Everything as to fit together in a complete package. Some brakes won't fit in some wheels, some suspension setups won't on a narrow rear end, etc. There are no universal answers.

If your fab skills are limited then you have to put the wheel and tire combo in between the frame rail and the out fender lip. That typically limits you to a 12 or 13 inch wide tire which means maybe a 10 or 11 inch wheel. Wheels typically have limited number of back spacing options so you might end up with only a few choices on back spacing. If the car isn't very fast then just use drum brakes in the rear. Drum brakes fit with most any wheel style. If the car is fast then you might want disc brakes. Disc brake packages typically are more picky about the wheel choice. Sort all of this stuff out before you decide on rear end length.

My 64 has 15.5 cross section width. It required the upper lip of the outer frame rail flange to be trimmed flush to the rail. The rail widens at the top. So the flange removal can be tapered back to full width wher the rail narrows. It also required the upper lip of the 1/4 panel flange to be narrowed to about 1/2". There isn't much clearance. It took very careful measuring of the housing to order the correct back spacing. I always err on slightly less back space. You can add a spacer. But if it's to wide you'll be buying a second pair of wheels or recutting the housing. Easiest to start with the wheel and tire you intend to use. Then make the housing (after knowing axle offset and rotor thickness) the correct width. In my case the car was getting new wider wheels. so I worked around the axle it had. All said an done it worked out perfect.
Doug

Is it a "mini-tub" to the frame rails or has the car been "back-halfed".

This one has only 2" strips added to each side - "mini-tubbed". The wheels are 10" wide with 5-1/2" backspacing. The tires have a 12-1/2" cross section. With that combo a stock width rear end would have been fine BUT I wanted a touch more clearance at the outer wheel lip so since I was ordering the rear end I specified 1/2" narrower per side - and I'm glad I did because the wheel/tire combo just manages to be installed without hitting the fender lip.

FWIW, I'm past the "monster tire" stage in my life. Although I have to admit, I love that '64
!!!

They were 44" flange to flange.

I agree with all of the above statements, wheels and tires first
On my 67 Plymouth I can fit a 12 inch wide rim with 6.5 b.s., tire were 29-10.5w.
Now what's on the car is 10 inch wide wheels with 5.5 b.s. sitting on 315-60-15 Dr, with this combo the wheels sit center in the wheelwells
But to change them I have to drop the rear end, this is a cal trac setup.
On another note keep in mind how tall a tire you pick, 66-67 Plymouth you have to watch the inside of the outer qtr panel, 30 inches was about as big as I could fit without interference

Damn that sounds like fun !!!

They offered a 44” and a 52”.

On mine I let the air out. When they are flat and floppy they can squeeze out.
Doug

Doug ours rear tire sits about the same height
This is the 10 inch rim with 5.5 b.s. using a 315 radial tire
The b.s is probably why I have to drop the rear end

Mine is an E Body with a mini tub, Caltracs with split mono leafs, 15x12 wheels with a 6" b.s. running 29.5x10.5W slicks or 315/60/15 drag radials on the street. I can install and remove the wheels and tires without having to let the air out, just barely. I can get them out by letting the suspension hang.

66-67 B Body's have a lot lower corner panel than an E body or some A body's (Dusters...Demons)...

Running a tall tire and a low ride height like 67mprfan's car does make it more difficult...

Most of the time long studs and or deep backspacing is the main reason...

Mine having 7" of backspace makes them difficult to remove now...

Once the 13" rotors and calipers are on I may have to drop mine also...

Axles can be threaded for bolts rather than studs. Using bolts to hold the wheel on makes removal easier. Some European cars use bolts rather than studs for wheels. Most American car mfgs use studs. I'm not sure what the rule book says about bolts for wheel retention. It is a perfectly safe practice but NHRA might not allow it.

Thanks guys. It’s going to be a Ladder bar and coil over car. Let me try to get some pictures loaded up here to show you what I have to start with. They only moved the frame rail next that was next to the wheel tub. This car still has the stock spring hangers in the stock location. I have a set of ladder bars for it.

Picture two.