Hello,

I have a 40x48' pole barn that is 7 years old. I was in the barn last night and noticed a few drips of water on the concrete. So I got my spotlight out and noticed several areas under the roof with wet wood. Right now I am under the assumption that the leaks are where the screws go into the wood to hold the metal roof panels down. I can't get on the roof at the moment because we have a nice snow/rain mix here in PA.

I sure could use some advice on how to permanently fix these leaks. Thanks for any advice, cause I am sure not a roofer.

Likely the rubber gaskets under the screws have dried in the sun and have warped or split. I once had a rental storage space that the roof leaked in when it rained really hard for that reason. They let me move into another space, but it leaked too just less so. I finally strung a large tarp up inside the space with a slope to it so what water came thru ran off to one corner into a bucket rather than all over my stuff.

You can pull the screws out and replace them with new ones, or just back them out a little and blob some clear commercial grade silicone window sealer under and around each of them, and then tighten them back down.

Something like this for an all over leak proofing. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Buildin...etal-Roofs/N-5yc1vZaqu6Z1z19xfyZ1z19xo0?

Most everyone says to put screws on flats but I say on the ridges, 23 years on my pole building and no leaks. I had a leak on the extension I installed, raining hard so I waited got the ladder and a 3”” limb 12’ long off of tall tree had went through the roof. Had one go through my enclosed trailer roof also. Once I get a little money saved up I’m getting them ALL pushed over, to heck with the shade.

I fought leaks in my lower building for several years. Even replaced ALL the screws and Siliconed over the top. Then we had a hail storm. Insurance is replacing the roof.
My dearly departed neighbor says rather than replacing the roof why don't we run 2x4's lengthwise spaced 2 ft apart or so and put the new metal on top of the 2X4's?

EDIT: You will then have 2 roofs, the original and the new one separated by the 2 X 4's

Hmm Good Idea. Put a vented ridge cap on the top and its been leak free for over 25 years I do miss that man ❤😟

Seven year old screws shouldn't be bad. They should last closer to 20 years before having to replace them.
I'm sure a pole barn of that size has a pretty high roof. Is it possible to get close to the roof from the inside? If so, I suggest that you do that next time it rains. If not, get on the roof and look for the obvious.
Roof leaks can be difficult to find, so prepare for the actual leak to be somewhere up hill, maybe even to the side of where you see the evidence.
Once you find the culprit, replace that screw with the next size larger, and DON'T screw it down so tight that it dimples the roof badly. It's going to dimple slightly.
Lastly, don't use any roof pookie. Fix it right and you'll be good for a long time.

Thank you all for the advice and links. I can get fairly close to the roof on the inside, but there is a plastic bubblewrap that is covering most of the roof. I am fairly p.o.'ed that after 7 years it is now leaking. I have found wet lumber in about 7 spots. Could the screws have backed out possibly?

I'd say a screw backing out is pretty unlikely. It's more likely that the installer missed the beam/truss or didn't tighten the screw(s) enough.
IF they made a hole where there shouldn't be one, you'll either have to go the pookie route or put some dead wood on the back side to hold that screw tight.
For the record, I'm not a roofer, but have helped to install several metal roofs.
Yeah, insulation makes finding the leak(s) much more difficult. Take your time and be methodical. You'll get it figured out.
...and yeah, I'd be pi**ed too.

ironically my building was 7 years old as well. I fought the leaks for quite some time so I feel your pain and aggravation
Mine also was insulated but with Fiberglass which made it even worse to try and locate the leak. There are people /products that coat the entire roof with various materials but I have no experience with either.
I like the double roof idea in my previous post. Once and DONE!!!!

pray for a hail storm 🤞

Measure inside from wall and peak, use those measurements on roof to get a 4’ square area. Don’t wait for the rain, get someone to water hose that area after. I would take out each screw in the 4’ area to see if it hit or missed the purlins (2x4s) it’s not screwed into the rafters. The 2x4s are spaced 2 foot apart up to peak. Flex Seal liquid in quart can is a great sealer to put over and under the screw.
If some screws are messed up I’d check them all while up there. Like said my roof is a 4-12 pitch and so far no problems since put up in 07

You need to keep on top of leaks, for sure. The trusses are under a lot of stress in a pole barn because they are spaced so far apart. They don't tolerate rot well.
The screws should not be loose in only 7 years. I suspect a lack of sufficient bracing and triangulation. That would allow the building to move in the wind, working the screws loose. I'd have someone competent and familiar with these structures inspect it and advise as to whether additional wind bracing would be wise.

BTW, I'm typing this from my 50x80 pole barn that I had built 33 years ago and still has its original roof.

Guy local to me...same issue. Screw washers dried out, some screws have backed out. Its a bad deal. I went with standing seam on house and barn. Had the local Amish install it all. They at least know what they are doing. Its not an easy fix and costly to hire someone to deal with it no doubt.

I doubt it. What I have seen in ND weather is that the roof sheeting expands and contracts with the ambient temperature. When you go from -30 to +100 the roof moves a lot and eventually the screws lose their seal to the roof.

when i had the roof done quite a few years back on the house and shop, the outfit that did it installed the metal roof with hidden screws.
not sure how that is done, but you can't see any screws on the roof, no matter how hard you look.
it has been leak free since, and i am very happy with it.

I don't like the screws in the flat spots too. The flat parts is where the water flows so there's a lot higher chance of leakage. My roof is old enough that it is nails with lead washers and they are in the ridges and I've replaced ones that work themselves loose with screws. There is however less/no movement at the screws themselves when they are in the flat spots so I can see why they do get put there.

My first guess would also be the rubber washers because I have ones around the same age with the washers drying out and splitting already.

Yes, the screws certainly can back out.

I have two metal roofs now, one on my 48’x75’ shop and one on my 32’x54’ garage at the house.

The garage roof is approaching about twenty year old now, and although I don’t think it leaks, I can’t tell for sure because it has storage trusses with about six or more inches of insulation. I do know the screws along the lower purlin backed out a good 3/16 of an inch or more, as did several others higher on the roof. I think water works its way under the gasket, then expands when it refreezes, turning the screw along the thread.

Frankly, I couldn’t believe my eyes.

The shop roof is about the same age. The main part of the building is fully insulated, with fiberglass bats and a metal ceiling. I don’t see leaks, but the insulation may be holding the water. There is one leak in the hallway, which , along with the office and bathroom has a Sheetrock ceiling. I poked my finger through a suspicious spot and water came out.

The 16’x60’ enclosed, unheated lean to was added later and the metal roof leaks like a drive. Probably six to eight leaks at least.

We tightened the screws, and that helped some, but the only thing that seems to work is resealing with a high quality sealer. That or replacing with longer larger diameter screws.

I talked to three contractors, and the unanimously recommended to stay away from metal roofs in our climate. They invariably leak.

Its called "Standing Seam"

Old farm house way. There’s strap attached to roof at the L shaped seams, a special ‘crimper’ bends both flanges and strap to make the standup seam. It can’t leak since no holes or nails are on the out side. The metal comes flat then a tool bends up the flange. It’s been 40 years since I saw these tools, we did millwork for the guy who restored very old homes (1700s) he used them on his roofs.

my house was built in 1872, and it got to the point it was impossible to find anyone who would work on a slate roof.
hence my decision to go to the metal, standing seam, roof. [thanks for clarifying what my roof design is oldjonny ! ]