Looking at potentially swapping out the K member on my '65 Belvedere I for a later model to move the engine back. I have looked over several threads trying to understand what all is exactly involved and what swaps over and what does not (i.e. do you use the same torsion bars, does the steering box bolt right in). I have read that I would need to use a '70 to get the steering box angles to match. Just trying to fully understand what all needs to be swapped, purchased and changed out. I will also be converting to disc brakes (11" slider) if that matters, as I have already read that moving the engine back would allow front caliper placement and thus better brake line routing. This will be 90% race car-80-100 passes a year.

The only thing that really moves is the motor. If it's a racecar you could just put the motor on a plate and put the engine wherever you want. I cut the trans crossmember bracket off. Then weld a plate to it. If using a push button trans? A S10 mount works by slightly elongating the holes. The tunnel.is tight. Cut it and make it big now. Cut and trim the K member as well. Later you'll be happy you did.
Doug

I wouldn't bother changing K frames for a race car, just use a motor plate up front and then fabricate a transmission cross member to put the transmission where you want it. I assume you are using a 727 and not a stick? Do you have a bare block and a 727 case? If so you can mock everything up. The transmission is the big problem, especially for a race car. A 727 takes up a lot of room and if you have to run a blanket then it takes up even more space.
For a race car you need room around the transmission for the shifter, deep pan and blanket. For the engine you need space for a tall intake, deep oil pan and big headers. Mock up that stuff and move the engine/trans assembly around until you find the best location.

I put a 70 unit in my 65. As Andy mentioned, trans room is at a premium. I had to do some thumping in areas of the tunnel around the case bulges for the accumulators etc. Had to fold the floor pinch weld down flat. There was roughly about .5-.75" clearance around most of the case with the change. Of course firewall to head gets tighter too.

Moving the firewall back is easy with engine out of the car. Place a 2x4 across the firewall. Bottle jack against the Kframe. Place a pipe between the 2x4 and the jack. Work slowly. If you go far it’ll put a small kink in the metal. You can see how it puts a curve in the upper area if the firewall.
Doug

What is the oil pan situation on a 65 with the factory k? If I take the motor from my duster, it is externally oiled with the Milodon pan. I am already a little concerned about header routing as a couple of tubes hug the block where the oil line is currently routed, not a deal breaker but one more thing on the list. I have the line high on the block (angled toward the pump) which leaves some oil in the line for start up.

With a K frame modification like dvw did there is no requirement for the 62-5 only pans...

FWIW pay close attention to any input he has...

His car is above and beyond 95% of the other cars out there...

If it was me I would go with the elephant ears and a modded 65 K frame for your application...

My hoopty has its orginal 1964 K frame but engine has a front plate and a mid plate. Seems to work ok, wheelies are fun they say

Very good input, I really appreciate it.

I agree about dvw’s stuff, very nice and I would say the same about Andy’s stuff. I do like having examples to follow, while I know I”ll be short it is still good to have. I did find a post where dvw provided pictures of the cuts to the k member, extremely helpful.

I will be putting a reverse valve body automatic in the car. I bought it as a 383 four speed (not original).

How big a difference does moving the motor back 1-2” make?

The car will be bracket raced and hopefully attend a few NSS races, so I’m not worried about being fast as I am about being consistent.
Being on a budget causes everything to be passed through the cost vs benefit portal.

I have considered cutting up my K member for weight but in the end have decided not to, it's just a few pounds. My goal is to keep mine as stock as possible (think Stk/SS) and as quick as we can for 3600ish pounds hoping to maybe get that down a bit but not doing anything drastic. Its undergoing some much needed bodywork now so with my luck still a year out. We also have the engine apart looking for more HP, and I am sure we will find 30-40 more. After all cage is good to 8.50 may as well see if we can get under that here in Vegas

Love these old B bodies for sure. Had 5 of them over the years and have always been good racecars. For some reason this one is by far the heaviest one I have had. Most were much closer to 3400 than 3600. This one is hiding a LOT of filler. And that is mainly where any weight reduction will come from.

Moving the engine back will help with weight bias, although with all the rear overhang I don't think it's needed myself. But depends on how much power you are making and how you plan to race it. I dont think these cars have any issues with pitch rotation given the rear overhang. Moving it back will move weight back obviously. If its a lower powered bracket car likely will be a benefit especially on moderately good tracks

I really think I’m in the same boat. I have always loved these cars, especially as race cars but they have always been out of reach for me, that is really how I got the Duster, as 20 years ago it was the cheapest way in to a Mopar race car. I have realized after four engines in the Duster that 11.00 fits me just fine. My biggest debate now is whether to cage it and put my race motor (700 hp) in or just shoot for 11.50 and put my pump gas motor in from the Duster and forgo the cage to keep it mainly stock. This also puts me on the border for the rearend which I posted in another thread. The Duster has a Dana that I would swap but I would need to move the springs in to the frame. Anyway I appreciate all the information.

I understand. Most of mine were 10 second daily drivers. The one before this one was a high 10 second stock deal (iron heads and block). It was a fun very nice little car. My problem is I dont keep anything. But now that i have a 64 post car she's a keeper for me. Plus, I am getting old now. It is by far the fastest one I have owned.

For a bracket/ nss car there is no real advantages except for more exh. header options and rad. clearance. Lots of work to change things that don't need changing. If you really want to move the motor back without using a plate, the stock motor mounts can easily be replaced with aluminum biscuits redrilled to gain a little over an inch. Sprayed with rubberized undercoating and its hard to tell the difference from stock even in tech.
Still no real advantage though.




























brBB

If you are going to cut the tunnel (highly recommended and not hat hard) and/or move the firewall a touch (very easy). Then there is no reason not to move it back. The 62-65 is very limited in the radiator to motor clearance. Mine has one of the fan motor (late model charger/Challenger) housings notched to clear the crank pulley. A single motor fan would've been really tough to fit unless it was a slimline. The axle in mine is also moved forward 3".
Doug

I loved both my 64 post cars (Plymouth). Keep it slow for a fun easy to get in and out race car that you can race by yourself (no other persons needed). They can get light with bolt on stuff removed but still all steel. My first was 3100, second was 3200 with regular side glass.

I have always heard how "lite" these cars were. And for their size they are not as heavy as one might think. But with all of the ones I have owned NONE have been what near 3200. I must be lucky. Last to were 3400ish but I will also admit I have done nothing really to take weight out but plenty to put some in like cage dana etc. My current 64 is the secind heaviest one I have owned the only one heavier was the 64 Savoy wagon

As far as the motor to radiator space, I had to be creative even with my Duster, as the electric water pump and fan are using the same space. I am using a Taurus fan that I run offset on the radiator so I cut a few of the ribs from the fan for the water pump to sit in. I have looked at the ‘65 already trying to see how things could work. There does seem to be the option to run a fan out front as a pusher.

My fan is a pusher in front of the radiator. Not ideal but its never run hot here.

Al, are those hooker super comp headers?

No they are custom step pieces. However I have used the Hookers on two previous 65's they worked great.